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DBA slotted rotors
DBA slotted rotors
Has anyone got these fitted to their rig?
What are they like?
Is it worth it?
The reason I ask, is because I plan to change my front rotors when the air locker goes in the front. My current rotors have seen happier days.
Cheers,
Rod
What are they like?
Is it worth it?
The reason I ask, is because I plan to change my front rotors when the air locker goes in the front. My current rotors have seen happier days.
Cheers,
Rod
Dont expect mere proof to sway my opinion.
Re: DBA slotted rotors
rOd wrote:Has anyone got these fitted to their rig?
What are they like?
Is it worth it?
The reason I ask, is because I plan to change my front rotors when the air locker goes in the front. My current rotors have seen happier days.
Bazzle has them and loves em, they work well and help when you run 35's. Better brakes are always worth it! Just dont go the drilled ones.
Ive heard horror stories about crossdrilled rottors cracking. Whethere or not its true I dont know.
Anyway, Ive got the slotted ones on order and they are setting me back $128 each side. Is this a fair price???
Also, which pads do I use?
Bendix 4wd pads???
Rod
Anyway, Ive got the slotted ones on order and they are setting me back $128 each side. Is this a fair price???
Also, which pads do I use?
Bendix 4wd pads???
Rod
Dont expect mere proof to sway my opinion.
You dont get problems with the slotted ones, the cross drilled ones, you here they do creak. But i never had that problem when i had them on my commodore. And it had just over 550bhp. People who crack them are people who dont have the correct brake set up on there cars.
Its not cool, unless it's got boost :)
Guys,
If I just make holes in the genuine Nissan discs....what do you think?! Are the drilled ones different in terms of metal composition?! I really don't know...
Any ideas?
Thanks, Gabi
If I just make holes in the genuine Nissan discs....what do you think?! Are the drilled ones different in terms of metal composition?! I really don't know...
Any ideas?
Thanks, Gabi
GQ MWB 105 ", DID Mitsubishi engine with big turbo, fiber glass body, Boogger 38.5/11/16, 2x8274, 5 link front, triangulated 4-link rear, SAW 14" and 16" coil-overs, , 5.1 r&p.
DONT DO IT!. The drilled ones are designed that way. (Holes cast in) They will fall apart if you modify your own. Just not worth the risk.
Ive researched this extensivelly in the past. Its not the way to go. IMO
The DBA slotted are quite good value and are made from a select nodular cast iron.
Drilled disks are not necessary only slots are required for an improvement.
All the info is in the DBA forum listed below somewhere.
Drilled rotors do not work off road, fill with mud.
Slotted are good as they "wipe" the pad and also allow plasma phase gasses to escape etc.
You will find most real high performance stuff is now only slotted even though drilled (cast holes) are around as people want them (bling?)
Bazzle
http://www.mrtrally.com.au/forums/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=17
Ive researched this extensivelly in the past. Its not the way to go. IMO
The DBA slotted are quite good value and are made from a select nodular cast iron.
Drilled disks are not necessary only slots are required for an improvement.
All the info is in the DBA forum listed below somewhere.
Drilled rotors do not work off road, fill with mud.
Slotted are good as they "wipe" the pad and also allow plasma phase gasses to escape etc.
You will find most real high performance stuff is now only slotted even though drilled (cast holes) are around as people want them (bling?)
Bazzle
http://www.mrtrally.com.au/forums/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=17
bogged wrote:RoldIT wrote:I've used the bendix 4wd pads before on brand new machined disks and they were falling out, dead after 10,000klms.
Seemed a bit rough on the disks too.
Snap... I did exactly the same. Thought it was my heavy foot on the picks
Nope, I think Frank had the same happen to him too, almost identical amount of klms. I figured they should last a shit load longer than that
KRiS
I found a decrease in brake performance when I put bendex 4wd pads on the rear only of my truck.
Will replace again when I get my rear disks.
I know of someone else who took em off the rig immediately after putting em in and testing cause they did not work at all. Put different brand in and hey presto brakes again. IMO they are just too hard.
I would rather replace pads a little more regularly and have good brake performance.
I got my front pads (which seem very good) from the place I got my rotors but I am unsure of brand. I will try and find out for you.
Will replace again when I get my rear disks.
I know of someone else who took em off the rig immediately after putting em in and testing cause they did not work at all. Put different brand in and hey presto brakes again. IMO they are just too hard.
I would rather replace pads a little more regularly and have good brake performance.
I got my front pads (which seem very good) from the place I got my rotors but I am unsure of brand. I will try and find out for you.
I've used the bendix 4wd pads before on brand new machined disks and they were falling out, dead after 10,000klms.
I found a decrease in brake performance when I put bendex 4wd pads on the rear only of my truck.
Just use the Metal Kings as Bazzle suggests, they're great.....but only when warmed up a little!!!!
Cheers
Mitch
Thanks for all the feedback guys.
What I might do, since my current pads are still 2/3 thick (Bendix 4wd), Ill try them first and if theyre crap change to something else. Metal king maybe.
Having said that, Ive also heard that metal king pads wearout the rotors pretty fast.
Rod
What I might do, since my current pads are still 2/3 thick (Bendix 4wd), Ill try them first and if theyre crap change to something else. Metal king maybe.
Having said that, Ive also heard that metal king pads wearout the rotors pretty fast.
Rod
Dont expect mere proof to sway my opinion.
rOd wrote:Thanks for all the feedback guys.
What I might do, since my current pads are still 2/3 thick (Bendix 4wd), Ill try them first and if theyre crap change to something else. Metal king maybe.
Having said that, Ive also heard that metal king pads wearout the rotors pretty fast.
Rod
Have been told the same thing. I was told (and I'm not sure if I really trust the source) that to get good performance on big trucks like these you need to use a pad with high copper/brass content instead of mild steel (like Metal Kings) as they have great friction without a lot of rotor damage. I guess it's a "try it and see" jobbie ...
KRiS
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