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vit calipers v's sierra calipers

Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 7:08 pm
by built4thrashing
are vitara calipers bigger than sierra ones and will they bolt on to stock sierra brackets.

want to upgrade the front brakes and thought this would be an easy option

Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 10:00 pm
by Beastmavster
Normal vitara calipers are no better than sierra ones fr0m experience. I looked at going the other way and fitting the sierra ones I had when I had brake probs with the Vitara ones.

The Vented Vitara ones are significantly better and should be an easy swap.

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:45 am
by Mudzuki
Which model are the vented ones out of?

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:54 am
by Gonzo
I had a set of vented ones out of a V6 wagon i think that i sold to BeastMavster a while back

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 7:44 am
by cj
All the lwb Vits have vented fronts. I've got some spare vented discs but no calipers from when I swapped to slotted.

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 8:14 am
by Bazooka
Use the LWB 4 door 1.6L front vented discs and rotors. The V6 calipers will rub on the wheels unless you go 16" rims.

Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 1:36 pm
by alien
Looking at doing this myself...

so if i use standard vit ones, theres no improvement

if i use vented calipers+disc setup, a few washers should fix the clearance?

Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 2:04 pm
by nicbeer
Is this Bolt on?

cheers

Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 3:14 pm
by alien
apparently the vented discs + calipers bolt right on in, but need a spacer (ie: washers) so they dont rub on the rim or something??? that what im trying to clarify...

1) will it work (ie: improved braking)
2) does it just bolt on with spacers?
3) how hard is it to do?

Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 5:36 pm
by Beastmavster
alien wrote:apparently the vented discs + calipers bolt right on in, but need a spacer (ie: washers) so they dont rub on the rim or something??? that what im trying to clarify...

1) will it work (ie: improved braking)
2) does it just bolt on with spacers?
3) how hard is it to do?


1) Yes. Very noticably better and less fade

2) From memory* I didnt need any spacers. What I did need to do was trim the brake shroud (angle grinder or tinsnips required). As per usual the brake caliper should basically self locate after a couple of squeezes.

3) If you're capable of taking a wheel and caliper off and bleeding the brakes then you can do this with ease.

It needs a wheelbrace, a jack, a flat screwdriver, about 4 spanners and a set of tinsnips, plus a litre of brakefluid (depending how much dribbles away 'cos you forgot to block the line).

A set of locking pliers or a brake line clamp to stop ALL the brakefluid running away is a good idea and far less messy.

Brake fluid makes good paint stripper and weed killer.


Note that a lot of your braking problems may come from your rear brakes not working (due to mud, wear or leaks). If you're on a budget check this out first.


* If my memory is wrong go buy some fri99ing washers. :P

Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 5:48 pm
by alien
no braking problems here... i have new rear shoes in, but fronts only have like 2mm left on them, so i figure if im going to get new pads, why not get new brakes... lol

going 31's soon so the extra capacity should come in handy to slow them down a bit quicker!

Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 6:39 pm
by nicbeer
Hey Alien

Let me know if ya get any prices of the bits.

cheers

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 2:10 pm
by alien
anyone know the difference in size from the sierra master cyl to the vitara master cyl??? reckon the sierra one will bottom out using the vit vented discs?

Thinking of road registering the new brakes, but need to know cyl. sizes etc..

Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 2:56 pm
by alien
*bump*

someone? ...anyone?

Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 3:05 am
by mtzook
I don't know about the size difference, but about the registering part...

Some years back when i was converting the maruti to more suzuki parts, I took out the old non-power brakes and added the booster and master cylinder out of a sierra into it. I had to use a hole saw and drill out the hole to the right size and do all that mess, but it was never even brought up in the engineer's report because it looked as stock as can be. I don't think if you did change it out, anyone would really notice, as long as it's all properly mounted.

Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 8:38 pm
by alien
well, after getting a set of old siezed up calipers fully reco'd and brand spanking new rotors and new pads - its all installed and absolutely MENTAL!

half the pedal pressure produces the same amount of braking power as previously required, and at 90km/hr downhill, it stopped without locking up the wheels within 20m!!!

was all a straight bolt on, no cutting or spacing required, although it is VERY tight in there =)

Rotors and calipers/pads are for a 1.8L 4 Door.

Total expense getting a mechanic to do it, using tip top pads, full reco calipers (ie brand new), new rotors and all labour is $674 incl. GST. Steep but worth it.

Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 8:56 pm
by built4thrashing
just to add a link to theis bible post as i have completed the brake upgrade

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... ght=brakes