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Confused about suspension and size of tyres.

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 9:40 am
by jasonmcc
Hi Guys

I have a GQ 2.8 TD Wagon. I have standard suspension and looking at getting some new stuff. Im not sure of what to get. Should I just go for the Old Man Emu stuff then maybe put a 2" body lift and put 33" on it. Or I can get a good price on some 4" Dobison springs and Pro Comp shocks. What else is needed for a 4" lift other than castor bushes/plates.

Cheers

JAson

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 9:49 am
by Area54
Caster bushes will be the choice for the 4" coils, plates are unnecessary for this lift height.

Longer link pins for the rear swaybar, pop in some front radius arm spacer blocks (go between the front radius arm and the chassis bush) when you have the radius arms out. The spacers will give you a bit more room for the rear of the 33's in the front wheel arch at full lock.

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 10:56 am
by Hoonz
search how to lift a mav :rofl:

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 2:05 pm
by bazzle
OME or other 2-3 lift will fit 33s easily.

Bazzle

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 4:06 pm
by bogged
bazzle wrote:OME or other 2-3 lift will fit 33s easily.

Bazzle


agree

GU's have massive space on inner guards.

have a search for lifting cars...

remember to add $400 for engineers for legailty.

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 4:11 pm
by turps
bogged wrote:
bazzle wrote:OME or other 2-3 lift will fit 33s easily.

Bazzle


agree

GU's have massive space on inner guards.

have a search for lifting cars...

remember to add $400 for engineers for legailty.


Bogged it's a GQ2.8. Also didn't think you needed an engineers for 2" lift.
As for 33's fitting, I ran (and still do) OME 30-40mm Higher springs with koni shocks and this was fine for 33's (285/75R16). And with a 50mm body lift I fit 35"Mtr's with a little gurad chop and and rubbing on the inside of the rear arch.
For 33's may need to ditch the mud flaps though.

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 4:15 pm
by bogged
turps wrote:Bogged it's a GQ2.8. Also didn't think you needed an engineers for 2" lift.
As for 33's fitting, I ran (and still do) OME 30-40mm Higher springs with koni shocks and this was fine for 33's (285/75R16). And with a 50mm body lift I fit 35"Mtr's with a little gurad chop and and rubbing on the inside of the rear arch.
For 33's may need to ditch the mud flaps though.


owned on the GQ/GU... been a Cookie of a day chasing virus' round 3 critical machines at the winery.. :(

engineers I was talkin the 4inch lift which i think he has talked himself into already.

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 4:27 pm
by Hoonz
4" would be a minimum i could go .. u would get a 2" and kick ur self for it in the end

4" over standard will get ur average joe wheeler touring nice and comfy
and some half serious 4wding
spesh if your gonna have lockers

easy to fit some big rubber in later with a guard chop too

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 4:33 pm
by Area54
turps wrote:
bogged wrote:
bazzle wrote:OME or other 2-3 lift will fit 33s easily.

Bazzle


agree

GU's have massive space on inner guards.

have a search for lifting cars...

remember to add $400 for engineers for legailty.


Bogged it's a GQ2.8. Also didn't think you needed an engineers for 2" lift.
As for 33's fitting, I ran (and still do) OME 30-40mm Higher springs with koni shocks and this was fine for 33's (285/75R16). And with a 50mm body lift I fit 35"Mtr's with a little gurad chop and and rubbing on the inside of the rear arch.
For 33's may need to ditch the mud flaps though.


That's why I reckon the radius arm spacers are a good thing - that little bit more in the front keeps the hungry tyres away from the flaps.

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 8:56 pm
by Bingham
with 33's you's be doing well with 3inch lift to rip mudflaps off...fit ubolt to chain and tie back to side steps etc... and no dramas.. remember whatever lift you get you'll generally always want to go higher so do it now and save dollars in long run..... but now matter how easy people say the 4 inch lift is unless you have access to mechanic mates itll cost a few dollars modifiying cross members castors or drop brackets brakeline panards etc.... where as depending on what you want to do 2 body and 2 sping may suit your application if truck is to be only a medium to hard rated track.... if you wana play on extremes then go larger spring.....
thats my 5c worth,

make sure you get toyota offset rims as above the only scrub on mine with 33's was a slight one on inner guards..
bingham

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 9:06 pm
by bogged
Area54 wrote:That's why I reckon the radius arm spacers are a good thing


Yup, but I have 33's and front and rear mudflaps still fitted... no issues, usually only with 35s.. even the JT's dont destroy em

Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:28 pm
by brumby runner
Area54 wrote:pop in some front radius arm spacer blocks (go between the front radius arm and the chassis bush)

Where can I get some of these?

Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 6:57 am
by Bingham
brumby runner wrote:
Area54 wrote:pop in some front radius arm spacer blocks (go between the front radius arm and the chassis bush)

Where can I get some of these?

and what are they worth?

Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 11:07 am
by rOd
brumby runner wrote:
Area54 wrote:pop in some front radius arm spacer blocks (go between the front radius arm and the chassis bush)

Where can I get some of these?


I believe Big Balls offroad sells them. There about $50 I think.

Saw their ad a while back in a magazine.

Rod

Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 12:41 pm
by bogged
http://www.bigballsoffroad.com/prod476.htm

Image

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