Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Due to many questions, I decided to put it all in one place.
This conversion requires so much from a 1.3 that its often not financially worth while. Best and cheaper to start with a 1.3 Sierra and do that up.
In my case having a LWB Sierra made it a sensible option.
Getting all the bits at a great deal also made it wise(a mate was doing a motor conversion to a 1.3)
Needed is a 1.3 motor and all peripherals with gearbox and jackshaft.
This includes starter motor, alternator, carby and the lot.

Reusing the 1.0 litre airbox was simpler, more room, and enables turning off/on snorkle as needed.

Engine mounts sit on a similar plane/angle just on a 1.3 they are lower down and slightly more towards the front. So a simple 10mm plate sufficed for an adaptor. A longer adaptor is needed on other side, so we welded ridges to side for extra strength (this may be unnecessary?)
Slight raising of engine would not normally be needed, so ignore the raised sections under the bolts. This is because I moved motor forward 10-15mm to be able to reuse my 1.0 litre jackshaft (I'd recommend 1.3 jackshaft as its shorter)

I used a shortened fan block/spacer to give fan/rad clearance

a 1.3 radiator is needed, I tried a 1.0 but it was too low, and top of motor ran dry, and auto choke ran dry.
On a 1.0 rad mounts with bolts to the rear, but a 1.3 bolts to the side. They are in same position, tho. After much head scratching, I cut half of 1.0 mount off and bolted angle to it, which the 1.3 rad mounts to.
Those with money and/or welders could do better.
The splash guard needed trimming and the brake line running across it just needed bending round the sump.

To keep it all as bolt in as possible, more head scratching came up with a gearbox mount. The original 1.3 gbox mount is on the end of an arm. I unbolted this arm, drilled and fitted a bit more plate, 8mm? and used 2 trans case mounts thru to the original 1.0 chassis bits.

I used a 1.0 jackshaft with half the 1.3 gearbox yoke fitted to it. This is possible as both uni sizes are the same, just 1.3 uses external clips, rather than internal like the 1.0 .
Partly this was to save money, as a 1.3 shaft was going to cost, and I had a 1.0 already. But because of the close proximity of the 1.0 gbox cross member, the thinner 1.0 was easier to align.
I'd recommend a 1.3 jackshaft.

Due to a 50mm body lift there was plenty of room for the gearbox. The 1.0 litre tunnel is narrower, and without body lift it may be necessary to massage the tunnel wider. Body lift also solves a bonnet/hood problem, as a 1.3 bonnet has a raised section ( power bulge ) to allow for the taller 1.3...I imagine it would be easy to raise bonnet slightly if body lift not wanted...SPOA would leave room to drop motor down slightly, maybe.

opening up of the g stick and t case holes in floor was needed, partly from body lift and partly as the 1.3 sticks are in slightly different positions. I found using the 1.3 gbox boot on both sticks covered the holes nicely....nice to have a 5speed too.

Other issues I can remember are:

1.0 has an external regulator under the dash near passanger foot well. This was bypassed by an auto elec for a 6 pack. And I needed to get a 1.3 alternator plug from the wreckers.

1.3 has electronic dizzy and a different coil and wiring...use the right wire, I didn't, or it will only run with key starter turned and use the 1.3 coil...1.o uses a resistor coil, just tape that wire off.

If I think of anything else, I will add it laterer
christover

At a later stage a 1.3 swift/barina import motor was swapped in....this required sump, dipstick and oil pick up from the sierra motor. Also re using of all sierra inlet carb exhaust etc....If your lucky a swift/barina will already have the right angle dizzy, otherwise a cam swap is needed as firewall clearance will be an issue....My swift motor has multi v belts, so need to use swift alternator etc. swifts have higher output and are usually cleaner at the wreckers. swifts use thermo fans, and sierra fan don't fit on the pulley. our prez turned up a simple alloy adaptor for me, prob solved.
christover

A few more issues if you go the GTi. I run one in my 410. All the similar issues to yours. Wasnt the prettiest conversion, but the power upgrade more than made up for it
Any questions, fire away....

cheers
Rex
NZ

Was it worth the effort - what sort of performance gain is there?

nickw86au wrote:Was it worth the effort - what sort of performance gain is there?

Very much yes, I believe for me it was worth the effort. The performance gain is more than just the larger engine, because it is driving into the 1.0litre's lower gearing. (have sice lowered my diffs to 4:9's and fitted bigger tyres)
Depends what you mean by performance, tho, as Suzuki's Sierra 1.3 engine has in no way a race car type performance, but I am happy with it.
I use extractors, and keep everything as light as possible, this helps.
Parts are easier to find, import engines are available and cheap ($850)and include better belts pulleys and alternators, more suitable to my power steering mods, the electronic dizzy is much better than forever changing points on my 1.o litre donk.

But you do need everything from a 1.3 at a good price to make it viable.
This also means fitting of a 1.6 vitara donk is now an easier job, if I ever want to.

christover

http://winter2006.4wheelingoz.com/wi06H ... daFROG.htm

A build up article in 4wheelingOz.com

I've read it, you've done a great job on your zook christover, and from what I read, all on a budget! What else do we buy zooks for other than to show up trucks twice the size for a third of the size. I'll bet you know your zook 10 times better than most people know their fourbies (o.k., not so much people from this site who seem good at diy solutions, but certainly your 'average' four-wheel-driver). Good job.

To anyone else who hasn't read it, it's a good read (very informative) and there are lots of ideas in there.

Nick.

christover1 wrote:Engine mounts sit on a similar plane/angle just on a 1.3 they are lower down and slightly more towards the front. So a simple 10mm plate sufficed for an adaptor. A longer adaptor is needed on other side, so we welded ridges to side for extra strength (this may be unnecessary?)
Slight raising of engine would not normally be needed, so ignore the raised sections under the bolts. This is because I moved motor forward 10-15mm to be able to reuse my 1.0 litre jackshaft (I'd recommend 1.3 jackshaft as its shorter)

I used a shortened fan block/spacer to give fan/rad clearance

Im after a diagram & pics of the adaptor's to bolt a 1.6 vit engine to my 1L engine mounts. any help would be apprciated. If i could get a diagram of the one to bolt the 1.3L in I could easy mod then to suit the 1.6L. I looked at the write up that christover1 has on 4wheelingOz.com, but would appreciate some more pics and a diagram. thanx for any hep.

I just bolted the 100mm wide 10mm plate to the original chassis mounts.
Then I sat the engine in place, when I was happy with its position, I marked the holes to drill.
Then used nuts and bolts to fix engine mounts to the new holes. Hope that helps.

If I ever 1.6 it, left engine mount be the same, drivers/right engine mount will just need new holes, I think.

hope that helps.

christover

i may have to go down this path if i end up getting rid of the 4k motor.
and at this stage its looking likely

i may have to go down this path if i end up getting rid of the 4k motor.
and at this stage its looking likely

j-top paj wrote:i may have to go down this path if i end up getting rid of the 4k motor.
and at this stage its looking likely

If ya need any photos in their original size, let me know, apart from 4wheelingOz.com article, most OL stuff got lost in the past.

christover

yeh any pics would be great
i got no idea where to start as its my first zook

Id go straight to 1.6L efi If your going to do it mat,

Cost more now but won't have any problems down the track.

Cheers nick

then id need engineers. i want to spend as little as possible on it.
if im going to engineer it il go all out and go a v6 and auto or something

j-top paj wrote:yeh any pics would be great
i got no idea where to start as its my first zook

emailed what I could find to the OL linked email below ya post,
christover

thanks mate

hey guys currently doing this conversion as we speak.couple of questions.

i bipassed the external alternator regulator like you did under the dash but what wires do you join to change the plug at the alternaot itself?

wat colour wires go to what coil posts?

The main heavy charge wire dont need to go thru the reg, so goes straight to battery (should be fused methinks).
Another wire works the charge light.
Another supplies power to the alt field.
I had a sparky convert my plug, but with a recent alt upgrade I just have 2 spade terminals.
If I wire it backwards light dont work, so I switch them over, but never damaged anything so far.
Best to wait for expert advice tho
christover