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Which springs for a SAS
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 3:07 pm
by Nev62
What would be less cumbersome to setup for a SAS, coil or leaf? I don't want to get into the old coil is better than leaf argument, just want to know which would be more straight forward.
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 4:03 pm
by nicbeer
I would say leaf is easier to setup the angles and such for a novice or if you know your anti squat and that such coild would be the go.
Whats on the rear on the raider?
cheers
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 4:17 pm
by J Top
What side is your front driveshaft on Nev.
A complete bundy setup is a good start, use the radius arms, coils, panhard and stg box.
J Top
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 4:57 pm
by Nev62
J Top wrote:What side is your front driveshaft on Nev.
A complete bundy setup is a good start, use the radius arms, coils, panhard and stg box.
J Top
Front diff is on the right side, rear springs are leaf overs. This is all just ramblings at present. I will need to re-power at the end of the year so are going the 3.8lt road (the little 2.6 has done over 270000 and is getting tired).
I was also thinking of buying an old lux or something), striping it for the rest of the running gear. Only reason behind the lux is the width is closer and more options for the running gear. Just seems a shame to fork out $2500 odd for a motor conversion kit if the rest is going to change at a later date. I could just get my motor rebuilt but that is running athe same sort of dollars as a conversion (that is what you get for having something that is a little different).
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 9:35 pm
by J Top
The conversion gives you a used maybe tired engine vs a rebuilt eng.
J Top
Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 11:40 pm
by Nev62
J Top wrote:The conversion gives you a used maybe tired engine vs a rebuilt eng.
J Top
Whilst this is true, a tired 3.8 would still be better than a tired 2.6
Other plus is the cost of refreshing a 3.8 v6 is much cheaper than doing the same to my 4cyl 2.6 (about 1/3rd of the cost)
Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 11:18 am
by +dj_hansen+
Maybe time to trade up/down to a different car than go to the expense of drivetrain over haul/new front and rear diffs and SAS?
Just food for thought...
Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 11:34 am
by slosh
Bundera front diff with 3 link would get you into coils (copy factory geometry to make it easy). Use IFS hub spacers to match your rear diff width. Use 80/100 series radius arms for more flex (?).
Leafs wouldn't be much less work IMHO but would give greater flex and easier to fiddle with down the track.
Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 11:37 am
by J Top
The Radius Arms on the High Pinion Bundy's are the same as the 80's
J Top