Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Well first track of the day on a Vic Krawlers trip and like everyone has been telling me I destroyed a long side CV and to top it off snapped a passenger rear axle as well. I've driven this track many times in the past with the IFS and had the car bouncing up and down big time without busting an IFS CV. The rear axle doesn't worry me too much as I knew it was twisted and the full floaters are on the way.
Anyway RACV Total Care is awesome only had to wait 1 hr and was home by 1.30pm.
Anyway when I got home I pulled out my first live axle CV (pretty straight foward) and this is what I found
The piss off is that it chewed up the spline on the long axle so I have to replace that as well, does that usually happen ?? So even if I had a spare CV it wouldn't have been any use.
Pretty good eh...........................

did some one say " METAL RECYCLERS BIN "


holy shit dude that is preetty nasty

Hi Frank
thats bad news mate.
It can be better to carry a pair of complete axles and cv's, almost every Patrol cv destroys the axle spline.
Even if the spline doesn't look too bad it allows the axle to twist in the inner spider, spreading and spliting the spider [cv inner] before it would normaly fail.

You did use a Toyota axle...

this is my attempt doing a dumb hill climb at Paridise rd. (sorry about the quality took them with my phone.

and the spline, split in so many different directions

Not good Frank, what track did this unpleasant thing happen on (bad memories are in my head) and don't tell me that RACV were willing to come get you on Marginal Road.

We will have to put in an order to Ruff and get a bulk discount

Yes it is very rare that you will destroy a CV and the axle will survive. Im now just snapping the inner axles off so i cant win either way. At least when the inner axle snaps you can continue without the wheel locking up.

Last time i snapped an inner axle i also broke both rear axles

i've been using after market CVs in my GQ diffs
the center star seems to be much stronger
and when i break cvs its always the bell that lets go
i havn't changed a front axel since the genuine items

G'day Andrew, yeah it was at Labertouche on Sunset Tk (just after the rocky section) where the drama's started.
We got the car turned around and I drove it back slowly to the bitumen where the flatbed picked me up about 1 hr later.
Can't complain at that.....................

Holy crap dude, when ya break CVs, you really make sure they stay broke

Were the tyres the only mod or have ya changed motor, diff, ratio etc

starting to think maybe I should get some RACV cover. Not sure if the NRMA has the same but would prob want my first born.... what the hell, t hey can have him cheers mat

Nev

how about learn to change CVs on the track ... way easier .. cheaper ...
and u still get to have fun

Nev62 wrote:Holy crap dude, when ya break CVs, you really make sure they stay broke

Were the tyres the only mod or have ya changed motor, diff, ratio etc

starting to think maybe I should get some RACV cover. Not sure if the NRMA has the same but would prob want my first born.... what the hell, t hey can have him cheers mat

Nev

34 JT2's, air lockers, transfer gears... plenty of loud peddal?
Nice job frank, must say, saw your beast at wandin field day.. looking very nice

Be sure the check the axle seal aswell for damage. I stuffed it with my attempt etc.

I had to replace the axle too.

Generally it is the short side that goes first though, you must have come down on the pass side I guess??

nice work frank
the rest of us had a fun day wheelin thou

thats bad news frank. it is a real PITA.

well walkers was great fun you would have loved it, though the ruts were VERY deep in spots

Ahh well shit happens, at least it was the first track of the day and not the last.
But I'm really surprised how easy these CV's break so I'll be looking to upgrade for sure.
I was really looking forward to Walkers, haven't been there for a while, but at least you guys had some fun

Frank think this birfield elim. kit would solve your problem.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/axle_differential.htm

Lordtrunks wrote:Frank think this birfield elim. kit would solve your problem.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/axle_differential.htm

frank the birf elim kits are not that great, they are a big increase in $$ and you only get the the strength of a D44...

bj on roids wrote:

Lordtrunks wrote:Frank think this birfield elim. kit would solve your problem.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/axle_differential.htm

frank the birf elim kits are not that great, they are a big increase in $$ and you only get the the strength of a D44...

what if you were to use aftermarket axles and CTM's ?? (oh yeah and have lots of $$ to pay for it all)

love_mud wrote:

bj on roids wrote:

Lordtrunks wrote:Frank think this birfield elim. kit would solve your problem.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/axle_differential.htm

frank the birf elim kits are not that great, they are a big increase in $$ and you only get the the strength of a D44...

what if you were to use aftermarket axles and CTM's ?? (oh yeah and have lots of $$ to pay for it all)

i think with aftermarket axles and CTMs, then you are certainly up there in terms of strength... but your a$$ would be bleeding for months afterwards...

You would still be limited to the turning circle of a toyota diff, rather than having the few extra degrees afforded by the open knuckle dana diffs.... so that would suck after the big $$ spend.

Then you have the hub weakness issue....

id bang some of the wrongfields in there for $250 each, or whatever they sell for these days, and you're laughing..

Actually BJ seeing your a Tojo guru, as my housing has been reversed the CV's are now running in the opposite direction would this have made a diifference. We did see the fresh marks in the bell from where the balls were now spinning in the opposite direction than before.
It's made an absolute mess of the knuckle and the axle seal and inner hub seal I'll have to pull the swivel hub off as there is still fine metal pieces stuck in there.
I'm getting some 2nd hand standard ones (NTN AC100) and swapping them over so they are running in the same direction as before for the time being (plus some as spares). I can get them for $85 Ea with the axle. Then I'm investigating the possibility of having the cage & stars made up out of better material if that proves too expensive I'll go a set of Ruffs.
But how do guys break these on the trail replace em and then keep going when they shatter like that (does a lot of damage) ??

Bitsamissin wrote:But how do guys break these on the trail replace em and then keep going when they shatter like that (does a lot of damage) ??

You just change them out. Clean out all the CV particles with a magnet - not your fingers - change the inner axle seal as well. Bit of a pain, but keeps you on the trail. Might end up with a bits of CV in the lower knuckle bearing - depends on how you disassemble.

bj on roids wrote:

Lordtrunks wrote:Frank think this birfield elim. kit would solve your problem.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/axle_differential.htm

frank the birf elim kits are not that great, they are a big increase in $$ and you only get the the strength of a D44...

Actually you end up with a weaker set up than a D44 as the axle ears need a lot of clearencing to fit in the Knuckle.

Even with CTMs and Moly axles the axle is still weak due to how much needs to be clearenced.

The ultimate set up is obviously the new 30 spline Cromo Longs. I was originaly going to go to these but will now build a pair of D60s instead.