Outer Limits 4x4 Board

For all you body choppers out there what do you do with the sharp edge?

Once you cut the panel you're left with a sharp edge. Do you have the panel folded up a bit or do you put something over it somehow. I don't want to fold it as you couldn't fold around the corner anyway I guess but I want an option that doesn't look like crap.

I am thinking of chopping the rear corners off my ute tub as I am sick of damaging it. It wouldn't give any more departure angle as the towbar will still be there but it would stop me from dragging and denting/tearing the corners of the tub.

This photo shows the options I'm considering. The black lines would leave the tub cut on an angle sloping down towards the tyre. The red lines show a straight cut that would line up approx with the front of the tray (in front of the rear wheel).



This is the result of three hits on the ground.


Thanks.

cut it, and make a plate to fit in the hole, and weld it in

just watch as it may look a little unusual simply due to the the towbar... a smaller chop and plate or protective bar may look better...

Chuck a bodylift in there

Chop out the rear panels. make a plate out of panel steel and sixaflex em in. drill a hole in bottom to allow water out. make a bumber to protect it

diesel028 wrote:Chuck a bodylift in there

thats 2 for body lift...

But then... chicks dig panel damage

I was thinking body lift but I have an ARB winch bar and I don't want to have to modify it to suit. I thought the body chop might be an easy fix. I'll look into the ideas given here. Any further ideas would be great too.

Bodylift the tub only?

only will have more tyre space up back

piss the tub off and get an alloy tray............ get rid of any mudflaps and silly stuff like that that would get in the way.....

Looks good Tiny thanks.

I think when I fitted my bullbar I could have it flush with the guards above. I fitted it with almost an inch gap so I could possibly do a 1 - 1.5in body lift and not have to worry about the bullbar. Just undo the bolts and push it up as far as it can go.

I will investigate this option further.

+dj_hansen+ wrote:But then... chicks dig panel damage

I missed this bit before............my Wife would prefer I didn't damage it but she says as it's my ute it's my problem

She also said to buy a Patrol and spend the money on that

I'm too tight though and I quite like my little Rodeo. I'd prefer to play with this ute now and then get a Patrol or the like next year.

when I put the bar on my rodeo(ARB winch bar) there was small amount of adgustment up.....more than down, and I reckon you could prolly modify the bar ver easilly to have 1" gap and that would look acepatable.....or just upgrade to a Patrol like I did

Utemad wrote:I'm too tight though and I quite like my little Rodeo. I'd prefer to play with this ute now and then get a Patrol or the like next year.

why waste time and $? Go the fun truck now and just spend on that, keep the rodeo for road work... I had one, a 2wd model. awesome car, 330,000klms on it in the end!

simple solution...a tray

bogged wrote:why waste time and $? Go the fun truck now and just spend on that, keep the rodeo for road work

I'm a uni student atm and in my final year. I was a late starter. Although I could afford to upgrade now I don't feel comfortable with it as I don't know where I'll be next year. Could be overseas etc so I don't want to comit myself til I know what's happening.

So I'll just do some easy mods to my Rodeo til then.

mad_landie wrote:simple solution...a tray

I thought of that but the styleside and canopy is great for everything except serious offroad stuff which I only do once every 1-2 months.

Utemad wrote:

mad_landie wrote:simple solution...a tray

I thought of that but the styleside and canopy is great for everything except serious offroad stuff which I only do once every 1-2 months.

if you do go the tray way ill prob buy the canopy off ya

muduppig wrote:if you do go the tray way ill prob buy the canopy off ya

I won't be doing the tray option but thanks for the offer. I'm going into Main Roads on Friday to inquire about body lift. I have the day off and from what I have heard I'll probably need it

Utemad,

Let us know what the outcome is with lift as I am curious myself. After looking at various options I have gone with a standard 40mm lift due to legality reasons with shackles.

To get the arse end off (mainly rear ute body like yours) the ground more another inch or 2 of body lift may be the go but after fighting out the legalities of a 3" suspension lift I am shell shocked!!

Cheers Rainsey

Utemad wrote:I am thinking of chopping the rear corners off my ute tub as I am sick of damaging it. It wouldn't give any more departure angle as the towbar will still be there but it would stop me from dragging and denting/tearing the corners of the tub.

Lift the towbar while your at it! I got 70mm out of mine and could have got more if I moved the rear step/bumper up a bit.

How'd you raise the towbar? Drill new mounting holes in it?

I am always dragging the towbar.

Utemad wrote:How'd you raise the towbar? Drill new mounting holes in it?

I am always dragging the towbar.

Cut 70mm outta the sides, welded back together, plated the outside and gusset the inside.
The towbar was left bolted onto the 4b when this was done so none of the spaceings would be stuffed up. Here are some pics

I called Dept Transport today about body lift. They're sending me an application form.

They also said that the body blocks have to be made out of either
Alloy
Neoprene
Polyurothene
Steel

Anyone got any preferences?

I assume for the bolts I just need to take out the factory ones and ask a bolt shop for the same again but XXmm longer?

They said the closest inspection place for me is Darra. Anyone have any experience with them? I had my old Commodore inspected there once as I got done for a cracked windscreen. At first the guy just signed off the paperwork without even looking and was about to let me go but then must have felt guilty and went and had a quick look at the windscreen only.

I assume for the body lift they will want a good look over the rest of the car. All is fine I would think except for a few small oil leaks I can just clean up beofore the inspection. Oh and put the stock tyres/rims back on.

Thanks.

OK I had a look over the body lift posts on this board and it appears that you need a crush tube if you don't use alloy or steel. I saw a post that had cheap polyurothene block material but what about th crush tube. I'm assuming it would still be cheaper to have some tubing cut to fit inside the bolt hole than it would be to buy alloy blocks.

Anyone know about the crush tube thing or prices/suppliers of alloy blocks?

ebay often has body lift kits in 4x4 section these are alloy cant go wrong i think there is one on now

muduppig wrote:ebay often has body lift kits in 4x4 section these are alloy cant go wrong i think there is one on now

Thanks heaps

Hadn't thought to look there. TJM wants $24/aluminium block. Bit pricey when you need 14 of them plus bolts etc.

Just checked the body lift kits on Ebay. None have the required 14 blocks however there is one alloy kit for a Patrol. Bolts and all. Would be great but I would still need to buggerise around getting the other 4 blocks etc.

I'm thinking of getting some of that cheap as chips poly stuff and getting some tube for it. Would work out fairly cheap. I'm sure the bolt shop could do me some tubing too or at least tell me where I can get it.

iam assuming you need 14 for the cab and tray i used proper ally blocks for the cab so its all above board and used steel which i made up myself for the tray you could do the same use the cheaper stuff for the tray part and ally for the cab may save some coin

I was just thinking that this morning. Use alloy for the cab and the poly stuff for the tray. I'm going to call a few inspection centres when I get the application form to get some of their opinions.

I need 8 for the cab and 6 for the tray. By my count at least. I think that is all of them.

Thanks