Outer Limits 4x4 Board

G'day again everyone, my query is , although my vehicle is somewhat top heavy, compaired to some, & although I have a heavy duty spring/shock package, will removal of the standard anti-roll bar make a difference to the way she rides the corners??. The reason I ask, is due to the fact, I'd like to fit a long range tank, and thus remove the bar altogether!.
I also note that the ADF has done away with all anti-roll bars on all 'perentie' rovers.....have any of you fella's tried your vehicles without the anti-roll bar??, if so, was the handling a great deal different??.

Have not ried it on my 110. Have heard varying reports. One mate tried it on his V8 110 and said it was scary and put it straight back on, while another mate with a 130 removed his and the inner coils from the rear, but still managed to tow a caravan without problems.

I pulled the front and rear bars off the 130 years ago, and yes it lurches more in the bends.
Not so noticeable in a nice transition, but very lurchy in a quick change of direction.
I'm assuming your 110 has the load leveler and pretty light rear springs, so the lurch could be more pronounced than my 130. All you can do is try it without.
None of the Tdi or Td5 110's used them, as they used 330lb/in rear springs. (no load leveler)

BTW, the ADF were looking at installing rear anti roll bars on their 110's about 5 years ago, mounted above the chassis rails. They were trying to combat the high number of rollovers on road.
Remember that the rear rails of the Perentie are totally different to a civy version. A mate was doing all the engineering and type testing back then.

Why not just take it off & see??

Can't comment on yours, but the factory rear bars on rangies & discos are not much more than a bent coat hanger, put there for marketing reasons.

IMHO its the front bar thats critical. Have a look, the front bar should be much more substantial. It does more work, the front roll centre is lower.

If you want a more stable vehicle, and counteract roll oversteer, I'd be inclined to take the rear off, and put a bigger aftermarket one on the front. Thats what I did with my topheavy disco when touring.

Regards
Max P

Why not just take it off & see??

Can't comment on yours, but the factory rear bars on rangies & discos are not much more than a bent coat hanger, put there for marketing reasons.

IMHO its the front bar thats critical. Have a look, the front bar should be much more substantial. It does more work, the front roll centre is lower.

If you want a more stable vehicle, and counteract roll oversteer, I'd be inclined to take the rear off, and put a bigger aftermarket one on the front. Thats what I did with my topheavy disco when touring.

Regards
Max P

Not sure about sway bars but from what I remember about Perenties- the standard GS army rover had a bit of body sway but I heard of very few roll overs. The RFSV Perenties which is what you will see in the Cairns bassed army rovers have had longer travel Rangerover suspension and power steering installed on the vehicles and these had a heap more body roll and high number of roll overs. I am not sure how much this had to do with levels of driver training but I know that I saw more rolled rovers in Cairns than anywhere else. Hope this helps. Cheers
Pullsy

I made up some quick disconnects for my rear sway bar on the county. I have not reconnected them since Christmas as I notice no difference. However, I do run Polyair's in the rear springs and when on road have them inflated to 15psi. No doubt this helps with reducing roll.

No doubt it's all that extra oomph from the 4BD1-T that allows you to power through corners now ;-)

Thanks guy's, bl dy good feedback!. I've taken the leveller off a fair while back, it made absolutely no difference!, and rather than the standard setup, I have an early active cornering system, which I'd like to remove. Although it is effective on the road, I think it restricts spring travel in the bush, as well as approach/departure angles, also it's just one more thing to go wrong!!. I reckon a long range tank would be more useful for my application.

Well, I'm gonna remove both hydraulic rams, and see how it goes, then both roll bars, and check it out. If no good I might go polyair on the rear, and a heavy roll bar up front, as you guys recomended.

Do polyairs restrict you in any way?, are they reliable?, I guess if one goes, just let the other down!!.

I'm loving the extra power of the 4BD1T, but taking it easy round corners, I'd shoot myself if I wrote it off....cheers, Gerry..

Re the polyairs....

Had mine since 2001 when I fitted them before my round Oz trip. Run them at 5PSI offroad and don't notice them restricting articulation, but them I'm not as extreme as some.

Not sure if you are running any upper spring retainers/cones on the coils as this may interfere with the polyairs. I'm currently doing some headscratching trying to work out a way to retain the top of the springs whilst keeping the Polys (I tow a camper trailer that necessitates the Polys due to tow ball weight).

I recently had a spring pop out the top and tear the sidewall of a near new STT

Just something to consider with Polys

Polyairs come in standard or a plus 2" application, or they used to anyway. They might restrict uptravel a bit if articulation is important, but I think they're a good thing in a touring application.

Had a set on the old car, never any trouble.

Regards
Max P

the standard 130 front bar really stuffs up front articulaion.
It's so damn stiff that it actually makes the dual coil rear end (330lb/in + 140lb/in) work more than the front !
Mind you, it still worked better overall than a stock Patrol.

Lots of low speed damping (below 4"/sec) in a set of revalved shocks (Bilstein) or adjusted 3/4 to full hard 100 series 'cruiser Koni's will help a lot in reducing the lurch.

To retain the springs with polyairs I just use 2 hose clamps per spring. Only had one break in about 5 years.