Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys.. having major dramas with my points dizzy on tb42.. looks to have a sloppy shaft and as a result has a chronic missing problem at idle and feels rough and jittery all over the rev range. hav changed pionts and condensor numerous times but am thinking the time has come to get a new dizzy or atleast fix mine. also thinking electronic ignition..
anyways.. does anybody no if a later model elect ignition dizzy will be a straight forward swap with points dizzy? or if anyone has had success with a after market electronic kit through there points dizzy? would appreciate any ideas or imput to sort out this drams....cheers guys

I used a Piranha kit a few years back with no dramas, fixed up the idle etc.

Bazzle

I had the same problem a few years ago, the rough idle lack of power etc, and like bazzle said I also put on a piranha electronic timing kit - best 350 odd dollars I spent.

I used a Ignitor Kit. Heaps better than Pirana. No optical sensor, it uses a magnetic pick up. Pirana ones can suffer from mud in opto-coupler also discs can get cracks. Ignitor unit is totally self contained no external unit. Same price. Check at Aus4wd in Bayswater melb.

Replace the bearing first, it only costs $8, i had to do it recently... also clean and lube the mechanical advance and make sure the vacuum advance is working...

I had exactly the same problem until I did the above, its not hard at all, but u will need to pull out the dizzy so remember to to TDC on number 1 piston first, etc

where do u get the bearing from? will that fix the slop in the shaft? im gunna put a elect ig kit through while im working on it so any recommendations other than pirahna and ignitor? have seen a crane one and msd ones...heard pirahna was ok but not the best....what about the extended rotor button thingys that guys talk about? my mav is on straight lpg so my spark is critical...what leads and plugs should i be running?

I went to CBC - consolidated bearing company in brissy- they got it in for me..... but they needed to see the old bearing to size it!!

im able to get this kit to convert from points to electronic from rocket industries...whats peoples oppinions of this system? i can choose between xr700 or xr3000....good price too..
link for xr700
http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=5&prt=160
link for xr3000
http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=5&prt=161

viperguy wrote:where do u get the bearing from? will that fix the slop in the shaft? im gunna put a elect ig kit through while im working on it so any recommendations other than pirahna and ignitor? have seen a crane one and msd ones...heard pirahna was ok but not the best....what about the extended rotor button thingys that guys talk about? my mav is on straight lpg so my spark is critical...what leads and plugs should i be running?

I got mine from on the shelf at Repco and paid about $5

I use a Crane Fireball system, nice at 6500rpm
All the part No's etc are back in a thread here somewhere under TB42 ignition.

You will have to be careful with the clips holding the disc to the rotor, a bit of locktite or plastibond is the go.

10mm leads also rock

Hey guys this bloke told me $200.00 for a Igniter kit delivered anywhere in Australia . Sounds cheap to me " ontrack4x4@tpg.com.au"
ask for Phil.


cheers Scott

lwbmav wrote:Hey guys this bloke told me $200.00 for a Igniter kit delivered anywhere in Australia . Sounds cheap to me " ontrack4x4@tpg.com.au"
ask for Phil.


cheers Scott

I've got doubts on whether a $200 unit will be as good as a $300 Piranah unit let alone a $600 Crane system. The Piranah was ok but missed a bit over 5000rpm. It got worse after a big drowning.

Rainbow Warrior wrote:I've got doubts on whether a $200 unit will be as good as a $300 Piranah unit let alone a $600 Crane system. The Piranah was ok but missed a bit over 5000rpm. It got worse after a big drowning.

5000rpm, no good for me then 5200 is better

did any of u guys run lpg and experience these dramas before u changed to electronic???

hard starting, ruff idle, continuous missing at idle, stalling at idle, stalling when slowing down to stop at lights or go round corners etc...

this is starting to piss me off no end...had nearly everything checked on lpg side so im pretty sure its not that. could a sloppy dizzy shaft be causing these probs? new condensor, points, leads, plugs hasnt changed things...do coils stuff up? im at aloss.. no one sop far has been able to help me with the stalling.. which is stopping me from wheeling as stop/start is when it happens..hope somone can help

mate as i said, i had very similiar problems, once i fixed the shagged bearing and hence sloppy shaft. it cleared the problem

thats the info i was after..legend. i sooo hope this fixes my probs. will change bearing then fit crane kit

The Igniter kit is made by Pertronix and is exceptional quality. It's not optical like Piranah one. Recently saw them advertised for $185. Having done some homework on ignitions I'd go the Igniter. Just waiting for the Igniter II to suit Patrol.

what would u fit? the ignitor/ignitor 2 or either one of the crane kits that linked above?

also how hard is it to change the bush/bearing in the dizzy? anybody wanna tell me whats involved and then we can add it to the bible?

Points..mine stuffed up and I bought the Igniter. You have to have the dizzy modded ( minor grinding of the shaft where there is a small lip) to fit the kit. Once fitted it is set and forget. It is a hall effect and there is nothing really to wear out or to go wrong. It starts better, runs better and has a strong spark. You can replace the points in an emergency.

I rarely take mine over 3 000 rpm so I don't know what it would do at the higher rpm quoted by the others. I got 13.5mpg on a trip recently on LPG and usually 11 to 12 mpg around town.

RoadNazi

I just had a thought. Whatever kit you install, it might be an idea to change the bearing at the same time too. As luck would have it, it will stuff up the week after.

viperguy wrote:thats the info i was after..legend. i sooo hope this fixes my probs. will change bearing then fit crane kit

whats that they say about great minds?????

viperguy wrote:did any of u guys run lpg and experience these dramas before u changed to electronic???

hard starting, ruff idle, continuous missing at idle, stalling at idle, stalling when slowing down to stop at lights or go round corners etc...

this is starting to piss me off no end...had nearly everything checked on lpg side so im pretty sure its not that. could a sloppy dizzy shaft be causing these probs? new condensor, points, leads, plugs hasnt changed things...do coils stuff up? im at aloss.. no one sop far has been able to help me with the stalling.. which is stopping me from wheeling as stop/start is when it happens..hope somone can help

Yes coils do stuff up, I had occasional miss then swapped to another s/h factory coil to fix it.
I never had problems starting or stalling on points, just a miss at idle and high rpm, and runing too rich, black smoke & tailpipe deposits.
When I put the crane in I changed the bearing, fitted a Crane coil and 10mm leads as well, all inside a plastic box to keep the water out.

Rainbow Warrior wrote:

viperguy wrote:where do u get the bearing from? will that fix the slop in the shaft? im gunna put a elect ig kit through while im working on it so any recommendations other than pirahna and ignitor? have seen a crane one and msd ones...heard pirahna was ok but not the best....what about the extended rotor button thingys that guys talk about? my mav is on straight lpg so my spark is critical...what leads and plugs should i be running?

I got mine from on the shelf at Repco and paid about $5

I use a Crane Fireball system, nice at 6500rpm
All the part No's etc are back in a thread here somewhere under TB42 ignition.

You will have to be careful with the clips holding the disc to the rotor, a bit of locktite or plastibond is the go.

10mm leads also rock

He drives on the secondaries

Hey, do you still need a dizzy, i have a complete one here still, normal points one, you know the deal, a cold case of beer!

Mick Christie

bought the xr3000 crane electronic kit this arv...should be a awsum setup ..big ass coil..150% better spark..will be using topgun leads and irridium plugs. will tune to run on straight lpg set up.. have been told to expect way better performance and economy. and i though the mav pulled hard as it is....

Hey let us know how the new set up goes on LPG and how much it ended up costing you. Just want to know in case mine ever goes might do the same.

viperguy wrote:bought the xr3000 crane electronic kit this arv...should be a awsum setup ..big ass coil..150% better spark..will be using topgun leads and irridium plugs. will tune to run on straight lpg set up.. have been told to expect way better performance and economy. and i though the mav pulled hard as it is....

Don't forget to replace the bearing, and you can't drill the bearing plate, it's hardened steel, I blunted 6 bits trying, drill out the points insulator mounting rivets & use the existing holes and put the trigger to another position, I ended up putting mine 180 degrees from where the kit suggested, but the kit doesn't care because a pulse from a cam lobe is a pulse regardless of which lobe you're reading.

go falcon fuel injection and electronic dizzy should be under $500 see my post in the bible

cheers

bru

have been studying the crane conversion kit for a few hours now... i have few questions for someone who has installed one..

firstly, do i need lose the points arm and all associated bits and pieces along with the cover plate that fits under the dizzy cap? do i need to grind down the rib thats around the shaft that the rotor button sits on? the instuctions in the kit are pretty poor..very very vague...im thinking this just maybe a job for a auto electrician.....

viperguy wrote:have been studying the crane conversion kit for a few hours now... i have few questions for someone who has installed one..

firstly, do i need lose the points arm and all associated bits and pieces along with the cover plate that fits under the dizzy cap? do i need to grind down the rib thats around the shaft that the rotor button sits on? the instuctions in the kit are pretty poor..very very vague...im thinking this just maybe a job for a auto electrician.....

Yep points arm & plate has to go, I got one of the rotors in the kit to fit the lobes with some silastic to keep it on there. My advice if you're unsure is to get a spare dizzy and start there, because once you startinstalling it there's no going back if you have a problem fitting it and you can always keep the old points dizzy in the boot just incase Murphy rears his head.

Hi

Mine has the same problem.

When mine coughs and splutters the RPM needle drops and then picks back up again.

If the Tacho is hooked up to the coil, could this suggest a faulty coil?