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Mick's new steering Part II
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2005 9:44 am
by De-lux
i might refer you to part one of this rookie adventure of dodgy backyard mechanics...
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=37014
i got the new rock rod in, and the new steering dampener, but how do i make sure it is all lined up correctly? i have just turned the steering to full lock and put both arms on. i am also replacing the little bits inside the arm that goes from the steering box to the arm affixed to the hub. (you'll have to excuse my complete lack of mechanical knowledge, i have no idea what these parts are called.)
you can see what i mean from the first pic. here goes::
this next pic is my new dodgy steering all in place but i have no idea as to how you are supposed to align it all... at this stage im just winging it hardcore. (big bad booty fab)
this next pic is my hub which i think i have to replace the axle seal. if anyone knows how hard this is, or if i can do it, i would appreciate any help. thanks all
any input or feedback is mucho appreciato

Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2005 9:55 am
by Guy
If you can replace a wheel bearing you can do an axle seal, its just a bit messier (if the diff oil has got into the CV and diluted all the grease into a sloopy goopy mess) I did bot of mine a while ago.. about a four stubby job (two per side) seal is only about $5l, I got some new knuckle seals as well as hub seals (back of the hub) I had both the knuckle seals and hub seals sititnig in a toolbox from my bro's old hilux .. so I cant recall whaty they were worth.
As for the steering, make sure that the new rock rod is the same lenght as the old tie rod, you should be fine to get you to the local wheel alignment place to get it done properly .. steering and brakes are two areas you should not fark with if you dont know enuff about what your doing in my opinion.. (Though I am free to be as hipocritical as I like

)
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2005 10:08 am
by bubs
Ok to make it drive alright until you get the wheel alignment (i never did

) meausure centre to centre at the front of your tyres, mark the spot you meausure from.
spin the tyre 180 degrees and meausure this spot as well, make the back meausurement 1/4" shorter than the front.
it should track well until you get it in for a wheel alignment
the axle seal is an easy job to replace, about 1/2 hour a side when you know what you are doing, about 4 hrs a side when you dont
for anyone else who hasn;t bent the tie rod, before upgrading meausure the centre to centre on the TRE's adjust new tie rod to the same meausurement
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2005 10:09 am
by bubs
ps, make sure you bend those split pins in the crown nuts
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2005 10:34 am
by N*A*M
spend some cash, get some proper axle stands!

Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2005 10:43 am
by De-lux
N*A*M wrote:spend some cash, get some proper axle stands!

you like the dodgy work there mate?
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2005 11:49 am
by RaginRover
De-lux wrote:N*A*M wrote:spend some cash, get some proper axle stands!

you like the dodgy work there mate?
I agree,
My rangie as destroyed a few bessa blocks like that, if you can't afford some axle stands try and round up some large blocks of hardwood, much safer
Tom
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2005 1:00 pm
by phippsy
Mick, I got some chassis stands you can borrow for a while if ya want.
The axle seals are pretty easy, I found out after I had paid Toyota to do them ($$$

) when I was replacing my busted cv.
On the pic is a yellow arrow pointing to a sort of foam/felt seal that stops the grease in the knuckle from oozing out, there is a seal on the axle inside the housing to keep the diff oil out of the grease or as said b4 it becomes a big goopy mess. But everything to the right of the red line comes off to do it. This thread is for changing a cv, but you can do the seals as well.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=12519