Outer Limits 4x4 Board

A mate is looking at replacing his 4B and I suggested to him to make sure what ever he buys, make sure he can 35" it without too much hassle as I know he's gunna want to go that way before long. He likes shortys so inevitably he'd end up looking at Wranglers.

My question is, what's it take to 35" a Wrangler?

I understand no stocker will take 35" but how much $$$ and problems are gunna be confronted to do it to a Wrangler. Peoples previous experiences would be appreciated ...

35's on a wrangler hmmm the basic stuff you have to do is

at least 4in of suspension lift
2in body lift
slip yoke elliminator
regear (usually fit lockers to save on double labour charge at the same time)
flares

I think i've got the lot ??


I can tell you one thing for sure though if it's a Jeep it aint gunna be cheap.A rought estimate for the above would be about 10 big ones.

The biggest problem is setting the suspension up.You have to get it pretty much spot on or you'll end up with vibes.

RoldIT,

Coupla things straightup....The two best ways to enjoy a Jeep is either A. Not get to fussed on the cost or B. Learn to DIY.

Without a doubt getting mods done to a 'yota or Datsun is much easier and cheaper - mainly because both parts and people with the know-how are easy to find.... But if you fit into either A or B above then it's not really an issue.

There is also a big difference between minimum to run 35"s and a prefer method or the ideal method to run 35"s.....I'll try and give an idea....

Bare Minimum
3½-4" Suspension lift - New coils, shockies, panhard rod brackets, extended bump stops, transfer case drop. Could be pieced together for about $800 - or expect to pay at least $1200-$1500 in a basic kit....Extra for fitting....
2" Body Lift - DYI can be done with Ali spacers for as little as say $50....a kit will cost about $400.....Fitting obviously extra....

But this is not including the cost of new rims to fit 35" tyres, wider flares to keep the tyres covered, also it's still running the poor factory ratios and the weak factory t/case output shaft....but hey you could be able to run 35"s for as little as say $850.....(I wouldn't)....

My Minimum
Everything in Minimum - Plus:
Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit. Cut & Tap style plus rear driveshaft DIY...doable for say $750....
Regear and add lockers - Suggest 4.56 ratios (from crap 3.07) lockers ARB or detroit....Say $3000 plus say $1500 in labour if he can't setup gears....
Add a Motor mount Spacer - could be done for as little as $10 or pay someone as much as $400.....
Wider flares to cover 35x12.5 size - approx $950.
So add say $6600...Plus the minimum gives $7450....

My Preference
Everything in my minimum list - Plus:
Heavy duty SYE Although the C&T Sye will work I prefer the Heavy duty SYE it will set you back probably an extra $1000
Adjustable Upper and lower control arms - Add $3000
So now we're into $10k range....

My ideal - After Lotto win
Rubicon Express 5½" Long arm kit - say $15k fitted
Atlas II t/case & NV4500 tranny - say $15k fitted
RCHP Dana60 at each end - Say $20k fitted
Add the required flares, wider rims and suitable 35-36" swampers and other extras....You might get away with less than $60k after your purchase price.....

Anyways it really boils down to how much money he's prepared to spend, how much he's prepared to do himself and how nuttso he wants to go.... I mean thanks to the massive US aftermarket parts I believe I could EASILY spent $150k just going spasitic.......If only the wife would let me

Or just buy a CJ and be happy with what you have got

Damn, "to change tyre, first remove engine ..."

He's pretty handy and could do most of the fitting himself but still looks like there is a bit to consider with the parts required.

Thanks guys, this was exactly what I was looking for. If he decides to go this way, then at least he can't complain he didn't know what he was gettin himself in for ...

Q's
Just curious wat r the standard danas like for strength would they handle the abuse of 35's with front n rear arb's dont qoute me as i only own a zook but dont they have something like a dana 30 in the front and 40 in the rear ,im sure someone will shed some light .
Ive always wanted a tj they r certainly a mad lookin truck with all the add ons aswell as without em! ,but the cost factor and strenght issue has always stopped me from the purchase ,
And by the qoutes on prices above to have to a reasonable wheeler I would be lookin at atleast the 30 to 35k mark with the purchase price of course.

Doesnt help buying 4wd sport n utility mags every month and seeing all the sik trucks (jeeps) and all the serious gear ,includin the skyjacker 10" lift thats f in mad !!!!!!!!!

Cheers Dan

I've been running 35" muddies for 2½ years now and recently moved to 36" TSL's on beadlocks......asside from lockers & lower ratios my diffs are stock....and haven't had ANY problems....

tj..dana 30 front, and 44 in the rear..dana diffs dont break.. only toyota diffs explodes :p

billsta wrote:tj..dana 30 front, and 44 in the rear..dana diffs dont break.. only toyota diffs explodes :p

Is this right?
Then what is lying in the bottom of this D44 then?

really chuncky oil??

hahahahahahahaha

Wooders jeeps are expensive because everything has to come from USA.
I am not trying to push Overkill. But we have started to develop some products for them to make a cheaper alternative. our short arm kit comes with all top and bottom arms been adj. The rear upper and lower as well as the front lower are adj on the truck wilst the front upper has to be removed.
We are currently looking at making a long arm kit but we can't find a jeep that we can develop one on.Most Jeep people don't like cutting there jeeps up.We have only one Jeep customer and he won't let us cut his original mounts off.
So before long I think there will be more home grown products available which will make doing a Jeep up a bit more affordable.
SAM

Sam you're dead right about the parts from the US - shipping cost as much or more than the parts, then you have to double it to get to the Aussie plastic...add GST and import tax and yeah it's a bloody hassle....for example I just purchased a Challenger Alloy Flex Tie rod, but I found most US companies no longer accept Visa :mad: is I had to waste an extra $30 sending a telegraphic transfer.

Hmmm Long arm huh....Would that require any specific height?
I have adjustable short arms right now but if you're looking for a guinea pig .... ...

So far on my rig the aussie content is:
ARB font bumper, SMI custom rear bumper, Metro Driveshafts (front & rear propeller shafts), rear ARB locker & puny air compressor, Snake racing diff guard, 4" lifted coils from All Springs & King Beadlocks.

From what I can work out you would need probably about 4' of lift to make it work
SAM

That's what I thought....
Hint I've got a 4" coils & 2" coil spaces

Bring it down one day and we will have a look.
The white one we do is high enough and he has 4.5 rubicon springs.He used to run 2 inch springs with 70mm packers and our short arm kit and got more travel than now with the bigger springs and rubicon short arm kit.

LOL yup big lift doesn't always equal bigger travel....
I imagine youre referring to Max's White & Spice TJ?

mmmm. long arms eh...
everyone wants to look like a monkey.

think moding a TJ is nard. try a famliy jeep

Yes it is Max's

So Sam what's the basics of your design?
What ends - rubber factory stye, heim, Johnny, fred, joe..etc???
Are you thinking to replace the upper & lower arms?
How are you thinking of mounting the frame ends? would this incorporate a sub-frame, a flatter t/case skidplate etc???

Just hang that carrot a bit lower

I use heim joints that are bushed to make them legal.
I would replace all the arms.
The lower arms will be mounted on a new higherprofile skid plate.
The only problem that Ican invisage is the steering as the standard steering would bind up.
We are putting coilovers in a cj now som hopefully the steering will be sorted on that first.

overkill wrote:From what I can work out you would need probably about 4' of lift to make it work
SAM

4 feet of lift?

FARK thats a big jeep, can you run bigger than 35s on that?

billsta wrote:really chuncky oil??

that chunky oil should be changed, as i would imagine it could do some damage to your gears

oh yeah, and i fit 42s onto my stock jeep and the suspension, would owe me all of 400 for shockes, $100 for greasable shackles, and ohhhh, NOTHING for the springs, thats right, not one cent

and the flex, is okay, the back is limited due to a porr designed rear strap, but its enough to get me by, on trips to the shops and stuff and when im delivering the mail!

Well I guess if i can find a Tj for 20k or under it may well end up in the shed next to the zook hopefully!!!!.
Considering that at the least it seems it will have 10 k added to it (Ive already spent atleasst 7k on da little zooooook F_ck oh well its been fun :wink:

Hey bj - How about some REAR suspension travel?

A1zook,
$20k WILL get you into a TJ - just keep your eye on places like the trading post....

bj on roids wrote:

billsta wrote:really chuncky oil??

that chunky oil should be changed, as i would imagine it could do some damage to your gears

oil change.. that might explain a few things

Have seen TJ's as low as $12k for ones that re repossed etc.

I run 34x10.5 simex's now but could fit 35's with a little trimming.

I have 3.5" springs and 2" body lift, 1" motor mounts.
all up would be $2000, including shocks etc.

15x8 steel wheels - $200 for 4 from trading post.

detroits front and rear and 4.56 ratios all fitted for $3300

No extended flares yet, but I will be using the roll on flares you can buy and screwing them into the stocker flares.

I really do need an SYE and new rear driveshaft but seem to be getting by until I can decide what the hell to do with it.

I am on a very tight budget and seem to be going ok.

Toy's will be cheaper.
zukis are probably the cheapest - maybe fj40's as well.

Hey zzzz

Thanks 4 the info if it was directed at me fuk 12 k for a tj shite yeah , With your lift is it a full kit or a setup that u have pieced together yourself money wise thats more on the mark 4 starters for myself was lookin at 4'' though .

Your ratio's how do you find them all sweet now wen wheelin in the steep stuff , I have stated elsewhere that wen i get 1 ill b runnin 35's but that was until yesty wen i found out that the mtr dont cum in a 305 nor 315
Sothe simex mught win out for the scrub either jt2's or extreme trekka so if i got similar it may well b a 34" arhh its only an inch and the difference prob wouldnt be that much .


cheers thanx 4 da info

Dan