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Toyota Parts.

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 6:35 pm
by Bitsamissin
Does anyone know where I can get a 54mm socket for the wheel bearing nuts ?? Does anyone sell them aftermarket rather than buying a JBS etc 54mm socket = $117 :shock:
I've found a good cheap source of axle/hub seals.
I'm trying to make up a CV replacement kit as I think I'll be repalcing a few somehow :cry:
Also are the CV/axle circlips a standard size ??
I got some prices for new genuine Tojo parts as an exercise and their as outrageous as Mitsubishi are :roll:
So far I've got :-
- a good set of circlip pliers (with various sizes)
- heaps of spare axle/hub seals
- drift to punch out wheel bearing
- all the right size sockets for the job
- spare taper bearings
- magnet for debris
Just need :-
- 54mm socket
- axle/cv circlips
- spare cv/axles
Anything else ??

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 7:06 pm
by Shadow
get your cv's new or reco'd from any cv place

axles get em from wreckers

54mm socket, alot of 4by places sell em, they are a tube spanner/socket not a traditional socket, the hexagon is shaped out of tube rather than cast in steel if that makes sense.

shouldnt pay more than $30 for it. Get one with a socket attachment as you should really be preloading the bearings to the specified torque with a torque wrench.

if you cant find one with a socket attachment, weld a cheap socket and bit of plate on the back of it, thats what i did.

I have a feeling "L.C. 4x4 Products" may have all of what you want at a reasonable price.

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 7:09 pm
by dow50r
Snap on sell a nice long series socket...
andrew

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 7:25 pm
by andrews
My local Total Tools had a 54mm tube socket for around $80 - still a bit pricey. Not sure if this was a stock item, they only had one.

Ended up getting one off a mobile tool truck dude (not Snap-on but similar) for around $40, but he was Sydney-based so not much point giving you contact details.

cheers

Greg

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 7:51 pm
by MissDrew
Frank to change a cv you don`t need to touch the bearings.

The way I used to do it was

remove just the hub cover, 6 x 10mm bolts.
remove the c clip on the end of the stub axle(cv)
remover the backing felts around the bell, 8 x 10mm
remove the steering arm that is bolted to the top of the swivel housing, 4 x 19mm (or is it 17mm, haven`t done it for over 12 months).
only loosen the 4 bolts in the bottom of the swivel housing.
then remove the whole brake hub assembly off the end of the housing and cv in one hit. Sit this whole assembly on the wheel you have taken off.

remove the cv (remember the flat on the cv cup has to be horizontal to come out of the housing end bell (if its smashed to bits it want matter :lol: ) clean out the broken bits from the bell and the hub assembly.

replace the axle seal and then put new cv in.

do the reverse of the above to reassemble. Sometimes the hub assembly can be a bitch to get it to line up with the splines on the end of the cv but after a few times of doing this you get used to it.

I have done both side in under 40mins including jacking up and removing the wheels to when the jack came back out again.

Things you don`t need to do to change a cv are,
wheel bearings
tie rod ends
brakes or brake lines
fully remove the bottom king pin

Oh and if you are a real cheap arse like myself :roll: you don`t need no 54mm socket, you can use a screw driver on the nut ;)

Also I always got a lot better run out of gen toyota axle seals, the c clip on the inside of the cv is something you will want to carry spares of if you are only carring 1 cv and a bare axle for each side. Oh and a spare hub, I`ve broken 2 in 7 years :roll:

Think you said swivell bearings, I`ve never carried them and but have once need them :bad-words:

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:12 pm
by plowy
I bought my 54 mm socket from kotara 4x4 or also none as all 4x4 spares for $30 they have a web site and they do frieght .
There also in nsw /near newcastle.
But guts way does work as well

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:23 pm
by Bitsamissin
Ok thanks Guts I'll try that way on the short side.
I'm replacing both with good 2nd handers so they spin the right way (my housing is reversed) and keep the good one as a spare.
I found a place that does them for $85Ea with the axle.

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:30 pm
by Shadow
Bitsamissin wrote:I found a place that does them for $85Ea with the axle.


care to share ? :D

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:33 pm
by MissDrew
I used to buy em in bulk like 6 or 10 (half long sides, half short sides) at a time and you should get em down to around $40 each, plus side is when somebody needs one asap you can sell em one for $80 :cool:


and yes that is for cv and axle, not just cv.

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:38 pm
by Bitsamissin
Yeah Shadow thats a local 4x4 wreckers down here in Melbourne that a fellow forum member negotiated a set price with for our club.
Guts if I break another one I'm going a set of Ruff's which I'm told are very good. It has to be able to take some abuse not grenade on the first little obstacle :roll:

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:59 pm
by MissDrew
If you want my advice, well here it is anyway :finger:

Stop putting your front end back together
ask ruff how much,
give money to cheezy before friday
we get a pair off ruff over the weekend
you don`t pay any frieght
cheezy gives em to you next week
you then put front end back together
you go driving lots of times and no breaky breaky
you end up saving lots of $ in the long run.

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 1:54 pm
by the_smoo
tube style at don kyatts for 18 bux....

works a treat...

http://www.donkyatt.com.au/

site is shite.. but has store locations..

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 1:57 pm
by ToNkA
I got a tube style one for $30 from Procomp. Works well.

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:06 pm
by rock hopper
i sell them for $30-00 ea delived to your door .
i also sell all the other parts u r after ....

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:08 pm
by Bitsamissin
Thanks for the input guys but I was given one today (JBS 54mm socket with 3/4" drive which fits my torque wrench) cost me a slab :D