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MQ 3" Body Lift
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 2:05 pm
by LS
I'm helping a mate do a body lift on a LWB MQ TD this Sunday. Any hints on things to look out for would be much appreciated.
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 2:14 pm
by familybus
the best i can offer because im hopefully doing mine in sydney this weekend to my maverick aswell is visit this website first and read it well!
www.gqpatrol.com
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 9:20 pm
by GOT MUD
go to bible all your answers you will find(yoda voice)
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 11:18 pm
by Team Carpet RC Vehicles
If you are talking body blocks, when I did my MK (86 MQ) the rear 2 bolts we had to cut a hole out in the body to get to the head of the bolts that hold the block in place... Best of luck !
Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 10:33 am
by jtraf
3in is lot for the steering rag joint to take. It will have to be replaced with a uni joint setup or he will be stranded the first time it goes off road and puts any type of pressure on the steering rag joint.
Personally 2in is the most I would go on any car. An MK/MQ with 2in in the springs and 2in body lift can clear 35's easy and with minor trimming 36's why would you bother lifting it 3in.
2in body lift is also the legal limit..
The higher you go the higher the centre of gravity and it may become easier to tip.
HTH
James
Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 7:47 pm
by Mintoy
jtraf wrote:3in is lot for the steering rag joint to take. It will have to be replaced with a uni joint setup or he will be stranded the first time it goes off road and puts any type of pressure on the steering rag joint.
Personally 2in is the most I would go on any car. An MK/MQ with 2in in the springs and 2in body lift can clear 35's easy and with minor trimming 36's why would you bother lifting it 3in.
James
hi james. so if i do a 2 inch lift i won't have any problem with the steering joint (we can leave it as is)? this is one of my worries.
Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 8:20 pm
by MQ080
Team Carpet RC Vehicles wrote:If you are talking body blocks, when I did my MK (86 MQ) the rear 2 bolts we had to cut a hole out in the body to get to the head of the bolts that hold the block in place... Best of luck !
If you find the correct thread bolt, you can put them straight in without cutting. I would also suggest max 2" body lift, and it's much easier and you don't have to drop the radiator
Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 11:24 pm
by Team Carpet RC Vehicles
Dude I can help you with this one
... My mates and I put 2 inch body block in my MK.. cost us about $120 for the whole job. Including High tensile bolts and locking nuts, Rubbers, Blocks and a BBQ for the guys..
Took us the weekend to do.. Not bad considering the drinkies we had those 2 days..
2" is a good lift!! especially when put with 33' BFG's..3" spring Lift and longer shackels on the front.. Trust me this is more clearance that this trucks gunna need.. Hope this helps Need any more info just ask away..
Note. We didnt have to lengthen, Move or adjust anything on the truck for the lift.. No problems or noises since the lift. Was all sweet
NO WORIES AT ALL
Bl
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 7:54 am
by Patroldude
Ok - I have done several body lifts angd agree - don't go over 2 inches.
anything more is very diffiult to dela with later - body mounts start to break and it puts a lot of stress on other components. If you want to go 3 inch a handy way to get steering sorted is ot use rag joint out of 60 series cruiser - they are longer than patrol and easy to get.
2 days to do a body lift!!!!!?????? I got em done in 2.5 hours on my own!
Major things to look out for.
Would suggest drench all bolts in WD40 or something before doing this though
1) Clutch line - releaseto allow it to slacken off - mount is on top of tranmission tunnel on driver side. OR if at firsy u don't suceed, a bigger hamer is what you need. Bash it with hammer good UGGG - don't go neadnerthal though just enought to take slack off.
2) Remove lower radiator shroud so fan won't hit.
3) anything over 2 inches will mess with fuel lines.
4) you might wanna extnd ya brake lines a little, just gently pull on coil in engine bay.
5) Slack off steering column a bit but remember to re-tighten after install.
6) make sure you undo the bolts running from plate to chassis in rear guards etc
7) Jack body up and slide blocks in - mates use thin rubber sheet to absorb some of the body rattles etc... Re do up all bolts etc when finished to correct settings.
8) Start motor and head in bee-line for nearest fourby spot n see how cool it is having a body lift now.
Mk
Don't use Hi tensile bolts though - used 8.8 on body lift - tesile won't bend, it snaps, I have seen a 4x4 with 2 inch BL in accident with hi tensile bolts..... body was held onto chassis by wiring and steer alone.. scary
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 5:20 pm
by Big Red Toy
well i have a 3" bodylift in my MK and it works fine so screw ya's all
Apart from that, yeah the rag joint will suffer, but just carry a spare, they are cheap as. And if you knock the joint from above & below you should return it to a near standard position anyway
3" body & 2" spring clears 36's
Re: Bl
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:03 pm
by ozy1
Patroldude wrote: If you want to go 3 inch a handy way to get steering sorted is ot use rag joint out of 60 series cruiser - they are longer than patrol and easy to get.
this is a good idea, but something better is the uni joint out of an 80 series cruiser, the fit in with a minimum of 3" body lift, direct bolt in, no probs,
i pointed screwy in this direction, he has fitted one, and works a treat.
Re: MQ 3" Body Lift
Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 12:18 pm
by MQ080
LS wrote:I'm helping a mate do a body lift on a LWB MQ TD this Sunday. Any hints on things to look out for would be much appreciated.
Why are you doing 3"???? There is no need.
Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 6:30 pm
by Big Red Toy
3" is also good cause you can get the pressure cleaner under easier to clean out the crap