Outer Limits 4x4 Board

im thinking off chopin the ass end off my maverick from the tail lights down, i was wondering if anyone has done this and if so was it worth it and is it legal in nsw? i want to do it so it doesnt bottom out on rocks when goin down hill but i dont know if it will do more bad than good, thanks guys

search is ur friend

http://www.cheezyracing.com.au/Cr_Product_RearBars.htm

I just had the rear 1/4 chop done on my wagon, it cost me $700 at a local panel beater,

i believe your in Sydney, if you want to have a look let me know,

The company that done it, was excelent, evrone who has seen it has commented on how neat the job turned out, and it was the first one too...........but he said he is willing to do more,

any chance of some pics ozy?

$700, geez, expensive

I had the rear quaters done on my Old shorty about 12 Months ago , Cost $150 with new plates welded in. But needed to paint..$700 a bit steep, I think it is leagel in all states, You will have to check the RTA recomendations for the rear bar........

Talk to Surfection off this board mate....very good job and price...tell him Tiny sent ya

who is Surfection bud? is there a number somewhere or is he a member here that goes by another name?

familybus wrote:who is Surfection bud? is there a number somewhere or is he a member here that goes by another name?

PM me and I will get you a price

pics as requested

$700, was to have both quaters cut, plates welded in, respray from gutter down, and some enginebay welding. have to say it is a top job.

oh, and the guards were opened up a bit for the 35's to clear

that looks opened up a FAIR bit

hottiemonster wrote:that looks opened up a FAIR bit

the 35's certinaly dont touch anywhere except inside the arch

Save some money and have a go yourself mate. grab a ruler and cast your mind back to primary school art class days. measure a straight line across your gaurd where you want them to go. Then measure another line an inch below the one you just did. remove your wireing loom and bumbers outa the way. go but yourself a 4" grinder from supercheap for $49 and also some tinsnips $8 and a tube of sixaflex. Cut the gaurd off around the bottom line right around the gaurd. dont worry about how staight it is because that is not gone be your finished line. Next get tinsnips and slowly cut your neat edge about a centimetre each cut. that way if your lucky your paint wont crack. The back edge has to be done with grinder as its to thick for tinsnips but it really is easy with a bit of time and care. Buy a small sheet of panel steel from your nearset metal shop. make a template out of cardboard or something and trace onto your panel. cut it and then sixaflex it in. Im am by no means a panel beater or a welder. but a within a few hours and a bit of care i cut mine. I look tough! Give it a go mate and when you pull up at the next track and someone admires your cut gaurds you can say " I did that"!

. I look tough! Ya what? i mean the car does!

Going to do this myself soon.

Camshaft1 wrote:Next get tinsnips and slowly cut your neat edge about a centimetre each cut. that way if your lucky your paint wont crack.

Really? I found with a grinder I could get okay edges around my wheel arches - but then you have the luxury of folding a lip and/or attaching flares. Anyhow, I'm not concerned about the paint so much, so I think I'll make do with the grinder.

Buy a small sheet of panel steel from your nearset metal shop. make a template out of cardboard or something and trace onto your panel. cut it and then sixaflex it in.

Now here's the thing that I don't get. Why has noone suggested cutting from the inside instead, top and bottom, and bending the outer flap up and around to meet the freshly cut inside surface? Shape to fit, weld or sikaflex shut, and there you have a smooth curved lower outer surface, with less edges to leak/seal/paint/etc. Only bottom I foresee is that the folded surface may not quite reach right to the front and back edges - must be close though! I'm talking MQ here, but GQ would be similar.

Another q while I'm here - has anyone done this with the Nissan tyre carrier fitted? It mounts to the body right above where most ppl would cut. And I've already smashed a rock with this lower mount, so the metal there aint like she used to be. Don't want to weaken it any further.

thanks for the input camshaft! and your totaly bloody right, i can do it myself just never gave it a thought and to be honoust prob too bloody lazy! but i guess for a few hundred bucs saved in my pocket, im definatly goin to give it a go. thanks again bud!

Link:

http://www.patrol-gr.net/trucs43.php

L-Stefan - what language is that site in before i go and download 8 different patches

EDIT -- just discovered google language translator

Hi.

French!

A am from Sweden and I don’t understand French, but I use the free translation site.
Link to a free translation site. http://www.freetranslation.com/

Regards L-Stefan

Mate i think he did a top job seen what he did in your photos spent 700 well i would spend the same

ozy1 wrote:pics as requested

$700, was to have both quaters cut, plates welded in, respray from gutter down, and some enginebay welding. have to say it is a top job.

oh, and the guards were opened up a bit for the 35's to clear

[quote="Heathx4"]Going to do this myself soon.

[
.[/quote] Now here's the thing that I don't get. Why has noone suggested cutting from the inside instead, top and bottom, and bending the outer flap up and around to meet the freshly cut inside surface? Shape to fit, weld or sikaflex shut, and there you have a smooth curved lower outer surface, with less edges to leak/seal/paint/etc. Only bottom I foresee is that the folded surface may not quite reach right to the front and back edges - must be close though! I'm talking MQ here, but GQ would be similar.

Yeah that would work mate also. on mine i folded a lip up on the outside edge of the bottom plate that was to be stuck in and placed it in with a decent amount of sixaflex. so that way it looked smooth and also was binded to the panel of the car. strong as buggery. then i drilled a small hole in bottom plate to drain water out. Goodluck family bus it'll all work out

hey guys ,Im also atempting this at the moment. Just a few questions. When you cut them , is it exactly on the bottem line of the indented part of the guard. And if so is the new steel panel butt welded in , or do you sit it in 4 to 5 mm to allow for sealing and filling. Also what steel ? just 2 or 3 mm sheet ?

i have personaly seen the job done on ozy's rear quaters and it is a perfect job. couldnt be done any neater..well worth the dollars. they have welded in plates, reshaped gaurds, extended guards, refolded the lip, bitumen or proof coated all inner work and painted. looks factory

ok! other than cosmetic value, its been put to me buy a panelbeater who does 4wd, what is the advantage in cutting the quarters? he says that its a waist of time! im in two frames of mind now, i want to do it but do i need to do it? please show me some light someone.

Familybus the advantage in my opinion. Is if you get into some harder tracks with ledges and rocks, you are not going to damage the quarter. As will happen when you hit the lower section and get transfered damage to the whole panel. If you make a solid wrap around rear bar with the cut quarters you tend to slide over obsticles that would otherwise have damaged panel work. Some pics in my members area of my cut if they wern't lost in the crash.
I did mine no regrets and no damage other than some decent scrapes in my tube bar

Dave

there were two reasons i had my 1/4s chopped and the guards opened up,
1 - i got 35s, and test flexed, and the hit the guard big time, the resaon for that is slightly longer lower links,

2 - having the guard opened up was all i needed, but that would have involve fixing the damage to the lower 1/4 to make it all neat, why not chop it off at the same time, price was the same if not chearper,

i had a few dents scrapes, and flat sections on the lower 1/4 from sliding over rocks, why not get rid of it while you have the chance, and also when the creases havne migrated further up.

Have a look at the damage doen to my rear quarter int eh 4wd pics thread in general.

The GQ rear quarters are expose and the rear bar is weak. mine has been bent BADLY enought ot cut through my panels due to the force put upon it.


As I dont want to chop my qaurters off Im getting a metal place to fab up some factory looking wrap around rear bumper ends which will be 3mm steel - about 3 times stronger than the original weak stuff.

I dont think it'll be as strong as I want but it's as strong as you'll do without cutting the quarters.

bagsy wrote:hey guys ,Im also atempting this at the moment. Just a few questions. When you cut them , is it exactly on the bottem line of the indented part of the guard. And if so is the new steel panel butt welded in , or do you sit it in 4 to 5 mm to allow for sealing and filling. Also what steel ? just 2 or 3 mm sheet ?

anyone got advice ??

2mm panel steel. if there is a bumper protecting it it doesnt matter what you use.

Camshaft1 wrote:2mm panel steel. if there is a bumper protecting it it doesnt matter what you use.

Thanks for that and what about welding it in . Do you weld it flush or leave a recess for sealing and painting .