Outer Limits 4x4 Board

G'day guys,
Decided to try and fix the leak from my rear axle today, with no luck. (bearing in mind i have no experience what so ever) After removing the 6 nuts and spring washers from the axle flange the gregories manual said to remove the cone washers... i have no idea what they are/how to remove them Can any one help out?? Also is there any things i should be looking for when diagnosing the leak/ would i be able to order replacement seals from repco???
The truck is an 81 FJ40 with the fully floating rear end.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Cheers,

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Cone washers are (surprise surprise) conical shaped washers usually at the base of studs. I dont know where your talking about because I dont have a forty but if the manual sez they are there look at the base of wherever they are sposed to be, give it a wipe and you should see them. I get them out by hiting the end of the stud with a brass drift. It just jars them out. I don't know what the proper way is but this is what I've learned from watching some of the old fogies off this board.

haha thanks mate, next question.. i imagine a brass drift is some sort of hammer??? will a hammer do the job or damage the stud??

kranked_dirt wrote:haha thanks mate, next question.. i imagine a brass drift is some sort of hammer??? will a hammer do the job or damage the stud??

a brass drift is a piece of brass you place on the stud and then hit with a hammer

its a softer material than the studs and thus the brass will damage before the stud

i good soaking with 5-56 or wd40 will also help get the cone washers out

There barstards to remove especially if they aint been out for ages just keep hitting around the flange with a hammer, but hit hard and keep turning the wheel around (jack that side) and after a while they'll come loose.

to remove the cones tap with a nylon hammer around the hub .
and u can also try using an 8 x 1.25 bolt in the threaded part of the axel.

tighten the bolt and then start taping around the hub then undo the extraction bolts and the cones should be lose .
u can ring me if u need more info . 0408237653
07 54832130.

hub gasket will cost u $1-00 ea .
seal will cost u $2.10 ea and for NOK SEALS $5-00 EA .

nok seals work better.

i would surgest u repack your wheel bearing to as the diff oil has probly wash the grease off . (turned into sluge)

i use castrol apxt grease . i found this grease to be one of the best to use.

if u do decide to repack the wheel bearings u will require a rear hub seal
i sell these for $3-00 ea .

i hope this has helped u .
i u require parts just let me know ....


i have all the parts listed instock .

MY45 wrote:There barstards to remove especially if they aint been out for ages just keep hitting around the flange with a hammer, but hit hard and keep turning the wheel around (jack that side) and after a while they'll come loose.

Also, make sure you leave the axle hub nuts just on, as sometimes when the cone washers come loose they can tend to fly off and can be easily lost. I learnt the hard way!!!

Thanks for all the help guys, the last thing i need to know is, how do you remove the adjusting nut that holds the bearings in?? The gregory's manual said i need a "special tool" but doesnt say what it is or what it looks like. Anyone have one or know where i can get one? Supercheap/ Repco dont sell em...

thanks again,

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i sell a hub nut spanner to fit toyota hub nuts . will suit nissan etc...

$28-00 ea delived to your door .

but if u have a nut like in the pic i have posted . u just remove the screws and it should come undone by hand . or give it a light tap . i have a tool for the job . that i made up.

that nut is whats on the rear of cruisers, like mine

i made up a tool to do the job, welded 6mm studs to a plate of steel and a socket to the back

you can get it undone without the tool, but you are meant to preload the bearings to a specified torque, with the tool i made you can use a torque wrench.

Yeah mine looks similar to your 2nd picture rockhopper, perhaps i should make up a tool. How imprtant is the preload if i were to do it by hand? could i do much damage??

sounds to me like you might be wise to find somone that has done the job b4 and get them to help you, or at least watch and advise while you do it, or, part with a days pay to get a qualified mechanic to do it for you.
I dont mean to be rude or doubt your abillity but you are working on an area that that may seriousely afect the safty of your vehicle, not to mentoin others around if a wheel decides to go flying cos of a missed washer or split pin.
On the other hand we all started some where, and i reckon hands on is a great way to learn.
Dont forget to check your break pads/shoes, often oil leaks in that area will send oil straight to the brake components, rendering them worse than useless.
Another thing worth mentioning ( i think) I tend to treat an axle as one unit if you change/renew an item on one side, say a wheel bearing, then its probably worth doing the other side at the smae time.
Ne way good luck.