Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all

Just wondering if the 3.5 V8 will have a enough guts to turn 35 x 10.5 simex's on a 4 door range rover.

Am I wasting my time? Will the 3.5v8 be able to get the car to 100kms with 35's??

Cheers

Andrew

Two things,

1. Axle strength - i.e. you have none,

2. Diff gearing is the key - the 3.5 will have enough IMO but not with 3.54 diffs

Tom

RaginRover wrote:Two things,

1. Axle strength - i.e. you have none,

2. Diff gearing is the key - the 3.5 will have enough IMO but not with 3.54 diffs

Tom

Wat Tom said

Only I have the standard gearing with 35s and an auto I can hit 100kph on highway easy - 140 is also attainable but not safe in my POS.
Axles will break
With 1.2:1 highrange or 4.1 CW&P it would be 100% better

Thanks Tom

I am well aware of the axle issues...and am just wondering what to do next...whether I sink the money into a new motor or maxidrives.

Cheers

86MUD wrote:Thanks Tom

I am well aware of the axle issues...and am just wondering what to do next...whether I sink the money into a new motor or maxidrives.

Cheers

There is a toy conversion that works pretty well - heaps of ratios to choose from and a lot less than maxis - search and see what others say, I don't know too much about the benefits of maxis vs toy centre conversions but a few of my mates have toy centres in their rover housings and custom axles running 32s and 33s on rangies - RUFF has posted heaps about the toy conversion vs nissan conversions have a look around

Tom

Three words- Sweet piss all

My 83 with 3.5 V8 and 1:1 high range LT95 4 speed has enough problems turning 32's, but I have a clapped out smoky example of a 3.5 (rectifying soon)

Autos will be a bit more manageable with the 35's, but like all have mentioned, look at maxi's first. You may go slower than you like but you will break axles like it's going out of fashoin. I run front and rear maxi-drives, can't recommend them enough

If not a daily driver and you have plenty of time and patience (two things I have very little or none of ) the Hilux diff option is well worth looking at.

Good luck with it.

Trav

i have a 3.5 (soon to be 4L) and have done the toyota conversion with 4.5 diff ratios... as well as the old slug 3 speed auto.... and I run 35's... when I want her to she will get up and boogy.. can even light all 4 up in high range on grass...
its all about the gearing.. take a look at the Hilux boys running 37 - 38 inch tyres with a pissy little 2L ... but most run 4.8 diffs and 2 transfers..

Auto or manual? Carby or EFI?
I'm guessing manual ratios would probably be.
5th with standard tyres
almost the same as..
4th with 35's.

Remember on the 35's you only need to be around 80 on the speedo to be doing 100 on the radar

Tim

I had a talk with a fellow Malaysian offroader who runs a Classic with a 1JZ Supra engine (scraliegeous, god forbid) and aparently 4.7 final drives from a Series III LR...
Just wondering is that possible?
He claims it's a perfect fit.
Good idea?

BabyGodzillaGTi-R wrote:I had a talk with a fellow Malaysian offroader who runs a Classic with a 1JZ Supra engine (scraliegeous, god forbid) and aparently 4.7 final drives from a Series III LR...
Just wondering is that possible?
He claims it's a perfect fit.
Good idea?

Gearing would be good, but going from a weak 3.54 CWP to an even weaker (unless its aftermarket) 4.7 CWP is a VERY bad idea.

Dave.

DaveS3 wrote:

BabyGodzillaGTi-R wrote:I had a talk with a fellow Malaysian offroader who runs a Classic with a 1JZ Supra engine (scraliegeous, god forbid) and aparently 4.7 final drives from a Series III LR...
Just wondering is that possible?
He claims it's a perfect fit.
Good idea?

Gearing would be good, but going from a weak 3.54 CWP to an even weaker (unless its aftermarket) 4.7 CWP is a VERY bad idea.

Dave.

You can find exarmy landrovers like series 3's with 4.7's and from what i've been told they are stronger than stock. But how do you figure that 4.7's would be as weak as 3.5's, even if they are made of the same material ,the reduction in gearing will put less load on the car.
A guy i now put 4.7's in a bob tailed rangie and ran 35's all the time with maxi's and never broke anything. From memory CWP's should be replaced ever 300 thousand when running diff locks, and thats my 2 cents

Some ex-army stuff aparrently had 4-pin diff centres, as did the 50th Anniversary 90 V8 and, allegedly, the Stage 1 V8 Series.

Only the military one would be 4.7, the rest are 3.54.

Tim D wrote:A guy i now put 4.7's in a bob tailed rangie and ran 35's all the time with maxi's and never broke anything. From memory CWP's should be replaced ever 300 thousand when running diff locks, and thats my 2 cents

Sounds like you are refering to Mick Garner? If so he blew a 4.7 C@P doing a recovery at Black duck back in the short course days. They are defianatly weaker than a 3.54 as the pinion becomes so small. There realy is no better conversion than the Toyota centres and CVs if you want more axle strength.