Outer Limits 4x4 Board

perhaps slightly overpowered but it ought to fit. I never realised how small they were till I read the other day. replace a 1.3 zuke engine with a 1.3 rx8. on paper the capacity is the same. so rego shouldnt be a drama












Now shoot me down

Have a read through this.

http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/1261/index3a8.html

oh and I thought I was being original. I only got to the second page though.

the other this to be carefull of is that rotary engines have a mutliplication factor of 2 when working out capacity ie. your 1.3 lt roarty engine equates to a 2.6 piston engine.

Paul

been there done it hauuuuls aaassss
so much fun its scary do it u know u want to

I wanna a CA18 in a zuk!

or 4G86

that guy makes a very good case for the rotary engine. I wonder how suzuki diffs and transfer would take the extra grunt. If it was engineerable and you could source and engine for a couple of gran it would be pretty
does anyone know if mazda are the only car company to build rotary engines?

Yes to the company thing. Maz are the only automotive rotary engines.

1madengineer did this swap before. may want to search for him.

cheers

i dont think the HP or the capacity would be the problem with getting the whole lot legal, its usualy the weight of a bigger engine that pushes the zook over its GMV. Dont know much about rotarys, are they alloy?(weight) Is it injected? If you are going to the trouble of doing an engine swap, put an engine in with injection
Carbys sucK

Mock

nicbeer wrote:Yes to the company thing. Maz are the only automotive rotary engines.

Once upon a time in a land far far away there was a company called NSU that also made a rotary powered car.

and Norton
and Suzuki
and Yamaha

and merc (the CCC) 2 made

Matt

And they also found their way into kingswoods in a few countires

...and also into large model aircraft (topping out at about 35000 rpm)

The rotaries are built up in sandwich fashion and have been both all alloy (10A's and early 12A, troublesome), and steel endplates/alloy housing sandwich (Late 12A and all 13B's, less troublesome).

The biggest issue with them is keeping them cool. Because of the design of them there is no fresh charge keeping the insides of the combustion chamber cool (more like a two stroke in operation). This results in very uneven heating of the endplates/housings and rotor, and if your cooling system is in any way short of the mark, you will end up with the different coefficients of expansion of the alloy, and the steel bolts that hold everything together, causing a "crush" on the alloy components resulting in leaks at the alloy/steel endplate junctions. In effect this renders the engine almost dead (driveable but very sick). Only solution is a teardown and rebuild after having the mating surfaces machined flat.

Another problem was the carbon apex seals on early rotaries, these were later changed to steel, and I think are a retrofit into early ones now.

Be aware that they use a considerable sized oil cooler (about 1/3 of the total radiator size) as the rotor is oil cooled by an internal spray.

You would definitely need a rockhopper to make use of the engine, as it has very little torque below abut 3500 rpm, unless you go for a 13B-T. Rev till the cows come home, though.

In short not the best engine choice for a mudrunner unless you are prepared to put the radiator in the tray.

Having had a rotary "do its thang" in the middle of Pricess Highway, Springvale Rd, Center Rd intersection in 40+ degree heat....................Bloody loooooooong push, let me tell you!

love_mud wrote:And they also found their way into kingswoods in a few countires

aaaahhhhh the good old Road Pacer only sold in japan to the executive market as they were very underpowered but were well sort after

info from search.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ght=rotary

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ght=rotary

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ght=rotary

cheers