Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Looking at converting to larger axles with a coil suspension setup.
What I want info on is what is the best factory setup out there for the job? I was going for Bundera but im not sure. What other vehicles are there that can be used for such a conversion? Range Rover? Patrol?
Anyone had any experience or knowledge regarding this subject?

ask sam.

lux or bundera diffs

and link it urself. or buy a coil kit off sam and yes he makes them for toy diffs

I recommend Lux diffs, but you are going to run into troube with using bundy coils (your car is too light),

What I am doing to my Vit is hilux diffs but using TJ Jeep coil and shock mounts, with TJ coils, 80 series 3 link front for max articulation, and a triangulated 4-link rear using 4 nissan rear lower control arms. Going inboard with the rear shocks and will have the same shocks front and rear.

Cheers Paul

Another good thing to remember with Lux diffs is you can go up to 5.71 diff ratios.

Stupid question here.

Isn't the hilux IFS??? So in that case, do you use two rear diff for the suzukis???

Will

Hilux only went IFS after 1996

Thanx

Will

munecito wrote:Stupid question here.

Isn't the hilux IFS??? So in that case, do you use two rear diff for the suzukis???

Will

he he how do u turn

Thanks guys,

if I go down the bundera path i wont be using the stock coils anyway. I have King Springs just down the road that can make me any spring I require.

Earsezook, you seem to have done your homework. I was looking for something with a 4 link or A-frame rear setup. The Nissan links sound intriguing. Why did you choose 80 series front links? Do you have any pics of this build or is it still in the planning stages?

Well I didn't think about that!!!

But everything is very clear now, I can see the light.

Will

I'm still in planning stages.

The reason for eunning the 80ser arms is simple, the GQ, Bundera, and Rover arms are all of a similar configuration with a pin that attatches to the chassis inside 2 large rubber bushes which allow good twist, but limit up and down travel. whereas the 80 series has an eye which then bolts to the chassis allowing greater travel up and down with less resistance but has the adverse result of limited twist.

At the end of the day I know I'll be happier with the 80series ones, I will also be running a sway bar in the front for on the road.

Later Bundy, post 1990?, have the same arms as an 80.
They are also Hi Pinion so the steering is less of a hassle.
Drop 1 bolt out of the 4 bolts in the diff for less bind and better artic.
A good A arm is, IMHO, better than a 4 or 5 link for the rear.
J Top

J Top wrote:Later Bundy, post 1990?, have the same arms as an 80.
They are also Hi Pinion so the steering is less of a hassle.
Drop 1 bolt out of the 4 bolts in the diff for less bind and better artic.
A good A arm is, IMHO, better than a 4 or 5 link for the rear.
J Top

there pretty much the sam thing they work on the same pricipal

Thanks for the tip on the post 90's bundys, J top. Ill look into that too.
I do agree with redzook on the a-frame idea though.

Tke only problem with A frame Set-ups is the rear diff steer. (beware)

EARSEZOOK wrote:Tke only problem with A frame Set-ups is the rear diff steer. (beware)

if u trianglate the lowers they wont steer as much will also take some load off the one joint on the aframe

EARSEZOOK wrote:Tke only problem with A frame Set-ups is the rear diff steer. (beware)

A four link will do the same if you don't triangulate the lowers
SAM

Thanks Sam,
That is something I was not aware of, but will definately keep it in mind for my build up