Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ive done a 2inch body lift on my GQ, cant quite get it into low range, whats the best option, A-cut an inch out of the floor pan, or B-somehow bend the stick, how have you guys overcome this, is the stick easy to bend, Can it be done while its still in the truck, or is it easier to trim the floor pan, i reckon i only need an extra 10mm

I hacked the crap out of the floor pan on mine. But will be putting in bent shifters when I change gearboxs (mines stuffed- Dan if you read this I will phone you tommorow).
Have heard it is possible to bend them on the car. Just need to put a wet rag around the bottom of the shifter and heat up with the oxy. Juzza should be able to answer the question better, hes the one that told me about it.

thanks for the reply turps, ill wait for a few more before i do anything, i would prefer not to cut the floor, as i reckon water will get through if i get stuck in a deep bog hole

cut a V out of the floor easier quicker and you dont remove the shifta.

Take the shifter off (one bolt & disconnection of the linkage) then cut it and weld in an extenion. A bit more work but your shifter stays the right hieght relative to your transmission tunnel and your noise and dirt boots still fit as originally designed.

I didn't have access to a welder and got a local fabricator to do it for $40.

MEX

i cut mine and added 2 inches on my transfer stick

bogged wrote:cut a V out of the floor easier quicker and you dont remove the shifta.

how does your ruber go though, will it allow water through

hi-luxmadness wrote:

bogged wrote:cut a V out of the floor easier quicker and you dont remove the shifta.

how does your ruber go though, will it allow water through

no issues with mine as far as I know, and Ive been bonnet deep more than once

i just got out the tin snips and hacked away. then pulled the boot down to cover the hole and got out the self taping screws. no leaks and it looks normal

doi it properly and bend the stick & extend if uncomfortable,, me and a couple of mates hacked and the extra heat and noise in cab is annoying particularly with shit aircon!!

that floorpan surroundin the shifter is a removable piece...

so.. just hack away.. and if you fawk up.. or want to take the body lift out, or etc... just buy a new one from wreckers for 10 bux...

a V shape like bogged said is the way to go and put silicone around the rubber to ensure a watertight seal.

GQ wrote:that floorpan surroundin the shifter is a removable piece...

so.. just hack away.. and if you fawk up.. or want to take the body lift out, or etc... just buy a new one from wreckers for 10 bux...

a V shape like bogged said is the way to go and put silicone around the rubber to ensure a watertight seal.

this sounds like the easiest way to go, extending the stick is not really an issue, im 6foot4 tall and have long arms too, so i dont have any probs reaching it, ill have a crack at it on the weekend, thanks for the replies folks

its easier to have one person in the car one under it with a oxy just bend it forward abit ive done it 5 times now ive had water and mud over my front head lights, and no water at all came in through there, and i have 5inchs of lift in the spring 2 in the body and 36 simexs the only place that i get water in through is those little vents at the back of the cab on my ute and somewhere behind the kick panel.

I'm looking at doing a little 30mm body lift on my ute. Am I I likely to have any issues with shift levers, steering shafts etc with a lift this small?

Mark2 wrote:I'm looking at doing a little 30mm body lift on my ute. Am I I likely to have any issues with shift levers, steering shafts etc with a lift this small?

May still need to notch the hole for the transfer lever. May also be able to move the shifter surround back slightly.

I had problems engaging low range after fitting gearbox spacers on. The solution was the same. Cutting"V" section off the floor and the retainer for the boot.

GQ wrote:that floorpan surroundin the shifter is a removable piece...

so.. just hack away.. and if you fawk up.. or want to take the body lift out, or etc... just buy a new one from wreckers for 10 bux...

a V shape like bogged said is the way to go and put silicone around the rubber to ensure a watertight seal.

you still need to cut into the the floorpan, not just the surround.

i cut a v notch, about 1" long into the floor, then moved the floor sealing boot and surround back untill it just covered the front, and tec screwed it in place. dunno about water tightness, but i still have to pull the lever up to properly engage the lockout when in low range, or it can sometimes fall out of low range.

I cut a rectangular slot. Reason being engine torgues up and stick binds on side.

I cut back thru slotted rubber, top cover and 2nd cover where it overlapped.

Also had to relieve floor where main gearstick is as it popped out of 2nd and 4th once.

Bazzle