Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Standard open diff (front) 10 spline 285/75/16's

Short steep hill, (bit too much wheel spin...but not excessive!) clonk/crunch
Thought it was the 'box but turned out to be front diff makin the noise...removed front propshaft and stub axles to get home.

5 broken teeth on the crown wheel bit. Is this a common thing to break? I thought everyone said it was CV's and 10 spline shafts that break?
Maybe it was already stressed?
Can you just bung on the ring & pinion off another diff or do they need to be set up by a specialist?

Thanks in advance for any comments/Info

Dave

this exact same thisng happened to me just recently

however at the same time i also blew the center diff and the output shaft to the hand brake

everything else in the front diff was fine

i just replaced the whole diff center , im unsure about how much is involved in changing the crown wheel only

its quiet common... but usually its due to cross pin failure and then just getting spat round everywhere... to just shred the teethe is alittle more out of the ordinary well done and welcome to the world of standard rover diffs

Happens all the time.

You want another diff centre?

I have one.

Michael,.

G'day
The case hardening on the cw+p start to wear off after 200+k's .
Second hand centers can be quite cheap but usually break fairly easily as they to can have lots of k's on them.
I have been down the cheap second hand road many times, some times it pays this time it doesn't.
I reckon that a new cw+p set up by someone in the know would be your best bet.
It seems that many old RR parts perform quite well on road after 20+ years of service, but when you start giving them a thrashing they fail quite easily, where the new part will stand up to quite abit of abuse.
Regards
Michael.

it does not matter how new or how old the cw&p are, they are still a crap design that will break when you start trashing them...

I've bought "Maggots" ARB locker/diff complete.
Is it wise to fit a new cw&p to prevent this happening again?
Can you get upgraded ones...where from & how much?

Cheers
Dave

all rover R&P are crap.

just keep replacing as they break or upgrade.

Michael.

billybus wrote:I've bought "Maggots" ARB locker/diff complete.
Is it wise to fit a new cw&p to prevent this happening again?
Can you get upgraded ones...where from & how much?

Cheers
Dave

Just drive wisely and dont flog the crap out of it when/if the CWP breaks replace it with a new one if the new one breaks to soon for your liking you gotta address the situation and either
a) drive more careful and give up on obstacles sooner
b) Toy centre conversion.

I personally think you should be fine in the CWP department ad I beleive with the ARB carrier (also stronger than the rover unit) you will be much more likely to be breaking your 10 spline axles.....

I give you an example my Maxi drive axles are still using the standard 3.54 CWP (both fairly new) and I have had them floged to the crapper on 35" rubber and am now starting to give them sum 37" treatment... so far the CWP looks and seem fine.... when they break I will address my situation

So, can you just get a new cw&p from the likes of Repco or do you have to get Rover bits?

Thanks
Dave

supercheap have orsum CWP

Bein in vic I suggest you contact LesRichmond Automotive for your rover diff internals... I havnt got there details but i am sure someone will chime in with them and also the names of other places reccomended to buy from.

www.lrexpert.com.au (Greame Cooper Automotive) is another place i have got sum parts from b4 and had excelent service too.

another thing you need to be aware of is You cant just unbolt your curent CW&P and bolt in a new one..... You need to have is set up correctly...

So cost for labour and the CW&P isnt gonna be cheap. you can save yourself some cash buy removing the whole centre/carrier yourself and taking the centre to whom ever you wish to install it... then you get it back off them with new CWP installed and you reinstall it...

I not sure how much knowledge you have when it come to working on a LR vehicle but you will learn.... youll have to learn
If you were near by i would love to help out when the situation arises...but alas you are not

Funny enough I haven't broken a CW&P yet, haven't tried hard enough I guess

I did destroy one when the entire diff centre desintergrated (the standard procidure 'circlip let go' type thing) but not on it's own, duno if that counts.

Trav

Aquarangie wrote:Funny enough I haven't broken a CW&P yet, haven't tried hard enough I guess

I did destroy one when the entire diff centre desintergrated (the standard procidure 'circlip let go' type thing) but not on it's own, duno if that counts.

Trav

yeah but your tyres are small
get some big rubber on and see what happens

I was lucky, trashed 2 rear diffs!
The 1st one destroyed the housing, got a complete disc to disc rear diff.
The 2nd one took out the crown wheel.
Got a 2nd hand rear centre with brand new 4.11's front and rear, and have thrashed it on 35"s and no problems yet.

Expect to pay about $500-$600 for a new CW&P, then add bearings and labour to fit.

If you can take the 3rd member out and re-fit yourself you'll save a bunch too.

BTW, after fitting new CW&P, the 10 spline axles will DEFINATELY be the weak link!

yeah but your tyres are small
get some big rubber on and see what happens

It's not the size that matters, it's what you do with them that counts

I get around most things with 32's on. Something larger would be good though, you just can't beat ground clerance in the end

Trav

Aquarangie wrote:

yeah but your tyres are small
get some big rubber on and see what happens

It's not the size that matters, it's what you do with them that counts

I get around most things with 32's on. Something larger would be good though, you just can't beat ground clerance in the end

Trav

gold...
what a come back

Davidh wrote:Expect to pay about $500-$600 for a new CW&P, then add bearings and labour to fit.

I only paid $350 for my stadard CW&P I was thinking 600-700 including labour

Does anyone know who all the manufacturers of CW&P's are for Rovers?

I know of KAM, but no others?

I only paid $350 for my stadard CW&P I was thinking 600-700 including labour

Yeah, but i'm a sucker who likes paying retail.

2nd hand diff centres can be quite cheap compared to new CW&P, but if you want to change ratio's anyway, go the new ones.