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Non ARB compressor with ARB locker?
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 5:52 pm
by billybus
Anyone running non ARB compressors with ARB lockers?
I reckon the ARB is too weedy to air up tyres, but don't want to have two compressors. are there any dramas using say the Bushranger comp.
I might use my internal roll bar as an air resevoir, anyone else done this?
Thanks for any tips/advice
Dave
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 5:54 pm
by RB zook
yeah i use a different compressor setup
with a 5 litre tank its the go
and all my setup cost roughly the same as the arb compressor itself
and i can pump tyres um quicker too
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 6:07 pm
by fatassgq
Very easy thing to do mate just make sure you get a pressure switch from arb (or wherever) and then get a switch to mount in the cab for for your compressor.
If you use the bushranger maxair set up you don't even need to run a relay as it has one. Keep the inline fuse it runs standard and hook it all up as per instructions in air locker manual.
Air locker switch will come with the locker.but that is it.
If you want to have it switchable only when ignition on (as per recommendation) get a four post type switch for in cab operation.
Cheers
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 6:08 pm
by bigbluemav
I've got an on board air set up using Sanden air conditioning air compressor, a 10L truck air tank and assorted 240V air compressor bits. The important thing to remember is, whatever you decide to do, don't put more than about 100psi to the air locker solenoids, apparently they don't handle more air pressure than that very well at all.
Regards
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 6:14 pm
by billybus
cheers guys...
do the lockers/solenoids require air pressure to stay locked
or is it a shuttle type solenoid?
(the locker I'm getting is used so no manual or wiring etc)
Thanks
Dave
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 6:21 pm
by -Scott-
The solenoids supplied by ARB require 12V to be applied to maintain air to the locker to stay locked. Remove 12V to shut off air and allow locker to vent to atmosphere and disengage.
You probably could use a 3/2 shuttle type valve if you want? If you use air pilots you could have a completely pneumatic system. I think pros and cons of this were discussed here somewhere.
Does this help?
Scott
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 6:49 pm
by murcod
fatassgq wrote:If you use the bushranger maxair set up you don't even need to run a relay as it has one.
Apparently the later model Maxairs don't have a relay fitted under the on/off switch cover anymore? Mine did, and I've set it up to run into a small airtank with the ARB pressure switch wired in series with the on/off switch. It's still portable, but the same setup could easily be used for airlockers.

non arb
Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 1:15 pm
by Webbie
Is this set up OK and also do you think a regulator switch is nessesary or can I rely on the pressure switch.BTW my compressor is a viar 400 2.5 cfm.
arb
Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 1:27 pm
by Webbie
Re: arb
Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 1:39 pm
by Tiny
For gtwebbie

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 5:36 pm
by RUFF
ARB now have a new Compressor Available. It is smaller in size to the old style and they do recomend it only be used for the Airlockers but its defianatly a step up from there old one. It appears to be made by Viair. Tank is a much better design and it has a large heat sink surrounding the motor.
arb
Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 8:47 pm
by Webbie
thanks TINY

but I still need to know if the drawing is right .As i want i to do the lockers and also air ups and bead re-seats and may if the compressor will hadle it small bursts with the rattle gun.
CHEERS
Re: arb
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2005 12:22 pm
by Chucky
Tiny wrote:For gtwebbie

Don't you want to be able to engage the front and rear locker independantly? The way you have it set both locker will engage together. In the line from the final tee peice you could put a solinoid that would allow you to do this.The regulator is a good idea, but put it before the pressure switch and a drain on the air receiver would also help. I also have a pressure regulator fitted before my quick conection fitting set at 38 psi. This means I can fit the hose to my tyre and walk away and it will only fill up to 38 psi.
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2005 1:02 pm
by just cruizin'
If the pressure switch is after the regulator it wouldn't shut the compressor off which will result in one of two things. 1. Compressor burn out . 2. Tank blows off continually. If the pressure switch is correct say 100 PSI the regulator really shouldn't be required for the lockers otherwise ARB would be stinging you for them. Regulator on the air fitting is a good idea, combined with the staun's would take all effort out of the tyre inflate / deflation.
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2005 2:18 pm
by bluemu
I'm holding out for the moment and going to get Air-ups new mini cylinder to run the locker. I'm sick of those 12v jobs.

Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2005 10:48 pm
by V8 Middy
Back to the original question, is there a compressor that will air up my tyres faster and still activate my lockers safely?
Wiring I can do myself but I'm not keen on booty fabbing high pressure cylinders etc!
If I took another compressor to ARB would they be able to set it up?
Thanks
Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2005 10:54 pm
by ISUZUROVER
V8 Middy wrote:Back to the original question, is there a compressor that will air up my tyres faster and still activate my lockers safely?
The fastest (and cheapest) compressor you can get is a converted AC compressor. My complete setup including 2 air tanks (and no booty fab) cost under $150. With the engine at idle it will air a 33" from 8-45psi in about 30s.
Posted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:44 am
by V8 Middy
If you see my pulley setup at the moment, you can't shoehorn anything else in there so I think I'm stuck with the electric compressor. Again, I don't trust myself with high pressure air stuff. its only electrical stuff I can sort myself