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coil over conversion
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 10:23 pm
by twinnie
ok ok i know you all got exited sorry....
but this is my soultion to the torsion bar setup wich as you all know is far from perfect.
using either an upsidedown mcpherson strut or a coil over unit and the existing mounts (renforced) or new ones but the keeping the fab work to a minimum. this should keep costs down.
yellow= damper
blue=shock mount
red=A arms
grey=new bits
this is only a rough sketch and i'll change it and get more detailed with the ideas people give me.
Matt
Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 9:12 am
by Alex Kogan
I think in your new setup coil spring might interfere with CV shaft. Also it would have to be pretty short ant therefor not necessary better than torsion bar. Basicly the disadvantages you are talking about are caused by limitation on the lengh of the torsion bar, but Pajero got fairly long one. On the other hand coil spring is nothing more then torsion bar wound up into coil, so to achive better performance (in our case flex) from coil spring the wire it made from must be at least as long as torsion bar once unwound. Space is pretty tight Do you really think Mitsu engineers didn't give it some thought?
Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 5:33 pm
by Bitsamissin
Yeah I seriously looked at this before I decided to do the SAS.
I actually got a set of Gen 3 coil overs to see how close they would be to fitting a Gen 2.
Your diagram with the coil needs the coil well above the top wishbone as there is not enough space between it.
The bottom shock mount would be ok the problem is you would have to fabricate a new top mount (remove old one) as the existing one is too low. It is possible but some serious inner guard chopping would be required. A 2" body lift helps here, without it I doubt there would be enough room. The inner guards on a Gen 3 are not as rounded allowing the top shock mount to be placed more vertical.
Have a look at a Gen 3 and you will see what I mean.
I think it's possible but with a 2" body lift and some inner guard chopping.
Well worth investigating...................
Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 5:42 pm
by J Top
The main limit on an IFS is the axle length which relates to CV angles.
My thought, before I planned the SAS, was to modify the front diff and remove the extension housing from the right side, then move the diff head to the centre of the vehicle and extend the axles and the wishbones.
As already stated, the possible gains compared to the work involved with your design, don't add up.
J Top
Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 6:02 pm
by -Scott-
J Top wrote:The main limit on an IFS is the axle length which relates to CV angles.
My thought, before I planned the SAS, was to modify the front diff and remove the extension housing from the right side, then move the diff head to the centre of the vehicle and extend the axles and the wishbones.
I've occasionally thought about this, but more out of idle curiosity than anything else - I've never had a good look at the vehicle to test the feasibility.
Without looking, I guessed the biggest issue would be moving the wishbone mounts far enough inboard to make a worthwhile increase in length. I'm guessing the V6 ancillaries would quickly get in the way, and I doubt the inline diesel would offer much improvement.
Aside from the massive amount of work to end up with IFS, what did you see as the biggest hurdles?
Cheers,
Scott
Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 6:14 pm
by Bitsamissin
The biggest hurdle with that is how does the front propshaft get to the t/case ???
Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 9:14 pm
by J Top
The front drive shaft would pass under the sump of the 3" lifted engine.
With IFS the shaft length is not crucial so you can dog leg it with a centre bearing.
J Top
Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 10:26 am
by twinnie
i see what you guys are talking bout there is alot of work needed and (when i did the diagram i forgat about the axel
)
i'll do a bit more crawling around under the truck and see if i can over come this
Matt
Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 11:55 pm
by Zute
If you were to stay with an IFS, just making longer wish bones(& axles etc) would prob' be the best and cheapest way. Also gives you a wider track. But than you'd need to do the rear.
I have seen this done by a bloke in Artarmon Sydney.
Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 6:50 pm
by twinnie
the widening might be able to be worked out with wheel off sets ( - 50 front +50 rear) so you can swap wheels and still only need one spare, centerlines would work well for this. claws and other directional tyres wouldn't work though.
Matt