Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I talked MELDGE about it he said it was pretty easy but his petrol.Mine is turbo diesel I don't know if are any diffrences.Has anybody done one only want 2" so it's legal .I don't need anymore after seeing MELDGE MWB.

mate

There was areally good post put up about 12 months ago that detailed all the steps so do a search under middy or 73 series. but from memory the only real dramas where front bolts having to tale headlights out, rear bolts, and make sure if you have vacuum 4wd to check the hoses

DID THE SEARCH AND FOLLOWED AN OLD LINK THANKS

let us know how you go with getting it done when i get the dosh mine will have the same

I had a good look under the truck and in the engine bay I'll tell it full compared to the petrol6.Might take me more than a day.I read from the links that you have to take the headlight out can you put the bukkerrod in from under the block

umm let see..SWB is pretty much the same as MWB

unbolt your brake line mount bolt on the drivers side inner guard

undo your heater hose to firewall jack it up and modify fan or move radiator

re mount brake line, you might get the heater hose back on ... you might not

umm only other line that gets stretchy is the clucth flexible line

been a while since i did it though

There is also the air cleaner box I might need an extention
Battery Leads +and -

had no dramas with mine

radiator shroud was the biggest drama and i just cut and folded it out of the way... ill make a new one up one day hehehe

Ice do you know if auto cable is long enough

umm sorry no... ive got a manual one

mata mines a turbo diesel with after market turbo only probs i had was radiator all i did was unbut rad and drill four new holes 2inch lower than rebolt rad in spot good as new and the front two bolts you put the rods in from under neath and use a good magnet or pliers to get the rears in and out with. i have push button transfer and havent had to mod my selectors in any way and all the lines rebolted up fine. steering coloum just slips on the spline under the boot at the box end. hope this help

Thanks for the heads up now I need to make up my mind plastic(auslon) it's from work and free
Or alu don't know$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Or steel free someone said they used bookerod 8.8grade thats free too:D

I did a post ages ago with photos. I still have the other half of the UHMWPE I used, 75mm dia for the middle mounts and 50mm front and rear. For $50 + postage I could post the lot to you.

From memory, the only hassle was the petrol filler line only just made it. Also, couldn't find long enuf bolts so used threaded rod with double lock nuts on each end

search really is your friend:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... highlight=

why 2 inch lift? i run 36 inch simex with only 25 mm and thay only just rub in top of front guards. put rear bump stops in front and it stops that. my middie does the winch challanges and 8 day. since then, a new chassis has been fitted, so i cut the mounts of chassis and lifted them 32mm. now it does not hit at all. best of all it stopped the body moving forward and back buy 20mm due to bolt twist under brakes. glen techman has a 75 on 36 simax with no lift, it to rubs with no damage, only paint missing. middie"s fall over to easy with 32mm lift, hate to have 50mm

I actuall lifted exactly 60mm. The truck came with a bullbar that turned out to be from an 80 series. The cross pieces were right in the middle of the headlights so the main reason I did the lift in the first place was to get some light past the bullbar. The 35's came later! Anyway, I don't think the body lift made a huge difference to the tippy-ness.

I can only say after today's looooooooooooooooooooong adventure at brissy's free playground ormeou.I need 35's and john's point is good one I don't want to go to high.

Just a point of interest.When I raised my truck two inches I used rubber boat rollers. I cut them to the hight I wanted then I used the original cruiser metal washer on the top rubber and I used the original cruiser bottom rubbers. For the bolts I went to a bolt shop and bought longer high tensile bolts and nuts. the whole lot cost less than $100. I havent as yet put in the right length crush tubes, but the cab is rock solid

Thanks for that