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Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 7:45 am
by bj on roids
ROFL they're salisbury not banjo.

YOU ALWAYS get the centre section.

ROFL

i saw a Ford high pinion one for sale for around the $2500 mark, 3.3:1, no locker, good condition. MOST have 35 spline inners and 30 spline outers, (this one did) it also had balljoints. I would say it would be a fair bit of work just to not only get it to fit, but then to buy all the gear for it.

This was up the road from here.

You can buy the axles and unis separate and they are not that expensive, depending on your opinion of price. Also did you know you can broach your toyota gears to 35 spline for the axles to fit in. (Not worth it IMO) because of the pinion strength issues.

Most people get rid of the standard brakes and use 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton brakes because they are cheaper tha parts are far more available and far cheaper, also you do not need truck brakes from an f-350 on your hillux/cruiser buggy etc.

Dunno why you want the hubs or the unis.

If i went D60 all i would say is CTM, and as for hubs?! WTF.... 8 bolt? just convert to 6 bolt and it'd be all good.

I am sorry I am not 100% sure of what you want, but I just assumed you were building a custom front or rear steer axle and having looked pretty extensively into this area and the costs and so forth I personally think you are best at looking at an entire D60 frontend, or fully custom pre fabbed axle. (Dynatrac) (sunray) etc.

Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 9:19 pm
by POS
[quote="bj on roids"]ROFL they're salisbury not banjo.

YOU ALWAYS get the centre section.
quote]

What i am saying BJ is I DONT want or need the centre gears, and yes they can be removed! :roll:

I suppose another way of putting it is anyone have a DANA 60 With either a Bent housing and/or a BUSTED centre!!!

Or any PARTS separately like a old bent housing, spare axle etc etc anything will get me started!

Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 11:20 pm
by OVERKILL ENG
Good luck POS the race is on. :lol: :lol:

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 1:32 pm
by NICK
500 is a good price. But buy the time you regear it and lock it you are talking big $$$$, like BJ said CTM are also exey.

But still, for what POS wants them for it is a great starting point.


NICK

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 3:26 pm
by hypo
NICK wrote:500 is a good price. But buy the time you regear it and lock it you are talking big $$$$, like BJ said CTM are also exey.

But still, for what POS wants them for it is a great starting point.


NICK



i was just gunna chop the ends off and make a toy/d60 hybrid :D :D

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 5:27 pm
by POS
hypolux wrote:
NICK wrote:500 is a good price. But buy the time you regear it and lock it you are talking big $$$$, like BJ said CTM are also exey.

But still, for what POS wants them for it is a great starting point.


NICK



i was just gunna chop the ends off and make a toy/d60 hybrid :D :D


Copycat!

It could also work out quite cheap by just buying the outer knuckles and stock axles etc...

CTM's and warn axles certainly are the way to way however for the initial set up I just want to use stock everything so it still works out cheap!!!

I will be getting the axles cut to length, machined to size and splines cut which is surprisingly cheap for the process, yes by getting it skimmed I will be losing some strength but this process is cheaper and I believe it will be stronger then broching the hilux stargears.

The biggest problem I will encounter is setting up a inner seal to suit the dana shaft in the toy housing however with some bootie fab this shouldn't pose too many dramas.

I have not been able to find out much information on converting the 8 stud hub to 6 stud, BJ do you have any information on this?

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 6:26 pm
by hypo
POS wrote:Oh there is also a guy here in OZ that sells just the outer knuckles, i am calling him either tomorrow or monday!!


let me know how u go as in prices and sh1t as i might b keen 4 some outer knuckles and stuff

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 7:05 pm
by OVERKILL ENG
The way we got around the axle seal problem is to make your own tubes then you can machine the seal into it.Even though you will be machining the axles down they will still be stronger than the hilux ones.
My front axles had to be machined down by 2mm ti fit into the Vitara centre and we have tried and tried to brake them you guys at XRCC would have seen that as we also run Lincoln lockers front and rear and havn't broken one yet. I pulled the front axles out this week to inspect and there was no sign of wear or spine twisting at all.

Also POS why don't you use the Hilux brakes and hubs :?: :?:

Dave and I will be doing his front as soon as we get a diff so there will be some photo's soon( not too many though) :finger:

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 7:27 pm
by hypo
overkill wrote:The way we got around the axle seal problem is to make your own tubes then you can machine the seal into it.Even though you will be machining the axles down they will still be stronger than the hilux ones.
My front axles had to be machined down by 2mm ti fit into the Vitara centre and we have tried and tried to brake them you guys at XRCC would have seen that as we also run Lincoln lockers front and rear and havn't broken one yet. I pulled the front axles out this week to inspect and there was no sign of wear or spine twisting at all.

Also POS why don't you use the Hilux brakes and hubs :?: :?:

Dave and I will be doing his front as soon as we get a diff so there will be some photo's soon( not too many though) :finger:


i thought that the knucles on yours were from a d44 ??

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 7:31 pm
by OVERKILL ENG
They are but its the same principle :)

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 8:46 pm
by POS
overkill wrote:
Also POS why don't you use the Hilux brakes and hubs :?: :?:


Yeah this i can't seem to find to much info on! I know some of them are using Custom made ones with wilwood brakes etc etc and some are like BJ said using the smaller 1/2 ton brakes.

Sam has a Dana 60 at his place so i might pull it apart so i can measure up and see for myself!!

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 8:59 pm
by beebee
Sorry to but in but just a quick question......What does the term broaching or broching mean?

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 9:02 pm
by bubs
beebee wrote:Sorry to but in but just a quick question......What does the term broaching or broching mean?


cutting internal spline

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 10:45 pm
by POS
bubs wrote:
beebee wrote:Sorry to but in but just a quick question......What does the term broaching or broching mean?


cutting internal spline


Yes even though its sounds simple it requires a special machine and tooling to do the job, compared to external spline cutting where its a lot easier to do, thats the main reason it works out dearer even though there is less worked required!

Posted: Sat May 17, 2003 10:56 pm
by Bush65
A broach is a tool that starts as the shape of the blank hole and tapers to the finished shape (splines in this discussion). Multiple cutting teeth are formed along the length of the broach so that each succesive tooth only removes a small amount of material. The broach is pressed through the hole and cuts the finished shape in a single pass.

Posted: Sun May 18, 2003 10:56 am
by NICK
POS wrote:
bubs wrote:
beebee wrote:Sorry to but in but just a quick question......What does the term broaching or broching mean?


cutting internal spline


Yes even though its sounds simple it requires a special machine and tooling to do the job, compared to external spline cutting where its a lot easier to do, thats the main reason it works out dearer even though there is less worked required!



cant you do both with a grinder?


NICK

Posted: Sun May 18, 2003 11:29 am
by POS
NICK wrote:
POS wrote:
bubs wrote:
beebee wrote:Sorry to but in but just a quick question......What does the term broaching or broching mean?


cutting internal spline


Yes even though its sounds simple it requires a special machine and tooling to do the job, compared to external spline cutting where its a lot easier to do, thats the main reason it works out dearer even though there is less worked required!



cant you do both with a grinder?


NICK


Yes but i wouldn't tell anyone on here as thats just a bit to BOOTIE, but yes i have thought of that :P :P :P

Posted: Sun May 18, 2003 12:07 pm
by CRUSHU
http://www.echobit.com/cgi-bin/gravityf ... &product=3
eight lug to 6 lug adaptors, can be fabbed easy enough,

Posted: Sun May 18, 2003 1:53 pm
by beebee
Cool thanks for the info guys. So it's basically like a tap but non rotary so it makes a thread like groove perpendicular to the face - cool. Aren't splines meant to be pressed not cut (or something like this)?

Posted: Sun May 18, 2003 2:32 pm
by POS
CRUSHU wrote:http://www.echobit.com/cgi-bin/gravityfab/products.cgi?userkey=3&product=3
eight lug to 6 lug adaptors, can be fabbed easy enough,


Thanks mate!! :D

Posted: Sun May 18, 2003 3:03 pm
by CRUSHU
if you want to get rid of the 8 lug brakes, let me know soon, as im about to buy some in the next few weeks or so, and i will be getting rid of my f100 5 stud brakes, maybe you can get an adaptor or run zook wheels on the front. or if anyone else has some brakes for sale, let me know.

Posted: Mon May 19, 2003 9:09 am
by bj on roids
where are all the dana 60s coming from? I want one too. ROFL

hey nick, if i can some side gears that are untreated do you think you could find out for me if anyone can braoch them in the USA

apparently DSI worked for redline before they went bust and built 35 spline toy side gears?!?!?!?!