Outer Limits 4x4 Board

just wondering wot the difference in the blocks r ?? besides the cylinder size ??

i hear that alot of people with the 1.6 enigines run the 1.3 heads ?? y is this ??

i was wondering can i get the same benefit from just boring out a 1.3 block ???

just wondering if its not gunna cost me much is it a better option 2 bore out and rebuild the 1.3 t get it going ??

1.6 has a taller block. 1.3 produces more torque….

ok so wood it b any benefit boring out a 1.3 if i can get it done at the right price

the bore of the 1.3 and 1.6 look prity close (74mm and 75mm)and if u do the math eg 1.3/4 then divide by stroke then werek out what ur preperd to risk it dosent give u that much grater capacity. replacing my 1.3 with a 1.6 semmed to double the low doun power but i think my top speed was reduced a bit (its hard to tell) im not shure if this is what DeWsE ment (iv never fully understood the concept of torque Vs power

hypolux wrote:just wondering wot the difference in the blocks r ?? besides the cylinder size ??

i hear that alot of people with the 1.6 enigines run the 1.3 heads ?? y is this ??

i was wondering can i get the same benefit from just boring out a 1.3 block ???

just wondering if its not gunna cost me much is it a better option 2 bore out and rebuild the 1.3 t get it going ??

Search noob

im running 1.6 8v with weber, extractors and 2" pipe and its ULTRA gutsy... totally flogs a stocker on road (and i have larger tyres (215/75)) has 20% more torque than 1.3L without mods....... with the weber and extractors and pipe its made a MASSIVE difference. i have dyno results of it also =P (at the wheels):



the guy calculated driveline loss etc but i forget what it was now - about 40% loss through tcase and driveshafts though from memory???

here we go: http://www.suzishop.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3827

so a 1.6 will bolt up to 1.3 mounts. internals are different in 1.6 (pushrod, crank etc?)
use the 1.3 head for better compression?

like the others said, do a search - theres a total wealth of info on doing the swap itself... new mounts ARE required as well as a few other adapters n stuff.

bodylift is prolly recommended by most cos the 1600 is 50mm taller and aircover from 1.3 will hit the bonnet. i overcame that by fitting an even taller carby and filter (weber) and cutting the crap outa the X member in the bonnet =P

hey hypo
here some power specs for you

you can bore & stroke your g13 block
out to 1590cc by using a g16b crank
craydon auto sport in silverwater
do it to the GTI engines
ive looked into it with my old engine
i can get you a G16B crank for $125.00
but it would work out cheeper to buy a used g16b
short motor & rebuilt it
and fit your g13a head if you want to raise compression ratio
up to increase the torque

also you could use a heavier flywheel to lower to torque band of your combo maybe use a vitara flywheel

anyways heres the specs

sierra 1987-89 (carby) 1324cc
G13a S.O.H.C 8Valve
47kw @ 6000rpm
100nm @ 3500

sierra 1990-99 (carby) 1298cc
G13ba S.O.H.C 8valve
49.5kw @ 6000
102nm @ 4000

jimny 1998-00 (EFI) 1298cc
G13bb S.O.H.C
59kw @ 6000
104nm @ 4500

jimny 2001-02 (EFI) 1328cc
M13a D.O.H.C 16valve
60kw @ 5500
110nm @ 4500

vitara 1988-94 (carby) 1590cc
G16a S.O.H.C 8valve
55kw @ 5250
122.5nm @ 3100

vitara 1995-98 (efi) 1590cc
G16b
70.6kw @ 5600
132.4nm @ 4000

vitata 1999-02 (efi) 1590cc
g16b 16valve
69kw @ 5200
138nm @ 4000

X90 1996-98 (efi) 1590cc
G16B
71kw @ 5600
133nm @ 4000

but after watching the zook buys on the weekend i think the 13l & the 16l dont have enuf power or torque to push the 37'' tyres up decent hills

even bens supercharged 1600 corolla donk
had some truble climbing the rocky horror 1st hill climb

but thats only my 2c
horses for courses i guess

cheers
daryl

u can replace a 1.3 with a 1.6 without adaptors but u need to muckaround a bit, but its better than paing for a kit and it looks fearly stock

Hi guys

Just bought a '92 hardtop, 1 lady owner from new, blah blah,
Making parts for SPOA at the moment, and getting bits to build G16A with G13B top end.

Saw somewhere that 1.6 crank is too long for 1.3 block but it can be done.
Besides this, you are better off with the taller block, as it keeps the rod ratio up (the ratio between the stroke and the length of the rod). Without going into engine dynamics too much, this means the longer the rod the longer amount of time the piston dwells at TDC, and when the piston is halfway down the bore, the angle of the rod relative to the bore is less.
We put longer rods (with shorter pistons) in V8 racing engines with proven gains.
Apparently there is 30mm difference in the blocks, and you have to sit the engine a bit lower and a longer cam belt is needed.
16 valve pistons are needed too for the flycuts to fit the DOHC head.

Thanks daryl, but you forgot the 1ltr .

I've got the 16v 1.6 efi, reckon it's good for about twice the herbies(technical term) of my clapped out 1.3.
I did it with US bought adapter plates.
If I was doing it again I'd just use the whole Vit transmission.

ok cool, only reason im thinking bout boring out the 1.3 is coz i can get the boring done 4 free and i have already got the 1.3...

Daryl, i beg 2 differ on the 1.3 not having enuf grunt, Tim drove as far as he could b4 losing traction and pulling the winch(which was a technical move 2 get points), Gonads got up there, Ben in the supercharged beast wood have if he didnt bust, didnt c Sam...

i mean yeah a little more grunt wood b sweet but im trying 2 do it as cheep as possible

fill me in a bit more on fitting the G16b crank into the G13 Block ?? is there any machine work needs doing ??? also as well as changing the crank wot else needs doing ?? conrods ??

also do i need 2 do any head work then ???

The g16 rods are much much weaker than the g13 rods.
The G16 has considerably more torque than the g13
Bore the motor if you like, but bore walls will be a little on the thin side

The 1.3 head with 1.6 exhaust valves and mild porting does well, good low end torque as you maintain good intake velocity, and have pretty reasonable scavingang (spelling) of the bore on exhaust, the motor will also rev quite freely to redline and well beyond like this. (not that I recommend it, as the rods are not that great and are prone to failure just above the big end) The rod is smaller in this area to clear the piston skirts.

Zute wrote:Thanks daryl, but you forgot the 1ltr .

no probs i can list 1l 2l 4cyl and v6 engines if you wish
but ben was just asking about the 1.3 & 1.6
so i didnt list them

just let me know & ill post them

cheers
daryl

anyone know the length difference between the 1.3 and1.6 rods?
maybe i can use 1.3 rods in 1.6 block/crank/pistons.

Rod length c/l to c/l

1.3 120mm

1.6 139.6mm

so basically im better of not boring it and just change the crank and rods and do some head work then bolt on a supercharger yeah ??