Cruise Control install probs on the DD
Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2005 10:48 am
Any one installed a Command Autopilot AP60 CC in their vehicle ?
Well-priced unit in yellow box found in Supercheap auto and Kmart on special from time to time.
Pretty good instructions and easy enough to install (btw my DD is a 2000 camry) but can't get the mongrel brake switch wires (only two) to pass the unit's 1st diag test.
CC wants 1st wire with 12V and other with 0V when brakes OFF and 12V for BOTH when brakes on - fair enough but when the two wires to the CC are connected to these - no go !
Brake switch in my non-factory CC car has two wires whilst factory CC brake switch has 4. Difference being the two wires on the non-CC setup are an OPEN circuit until brakes applied then it closes to make the circuit.
The extra 2 posts on factory CC brake switch are a CLOSED circuit and OPEN when brakes applied to cut the CC. Makes sense but no matter which way I wire the thing it still doesn't pass the 1st diag mode of the CC (on the AP60 the LED shows for 8 secs after ign turned on to indicate a brake circuit malfunction).
FYI all three brake lights are functioning, look the same brightness but haven't checked bulb wattage/maker to ensure uniformity (have heard this can stop CC from working). Am also getting verfiied 12V and 0V on two wires to my brake switch.
Thought of getting the 4 post switch from toyota from $47 but don't wanna fork out if I'm not sure this is the fix.
any hints would be much appreciated - cheers !
Well-priced unit in yellow box found in Supercheap auto and Kmart on special from time to time.
Pretty good instructions and easy enough to install (btw my DD is a 2000 camry) but can't get the mongrel brake switch wires (only two) to pass the unit's 1st diag test.
CC wants 1st wire with 12V and other with 0V when brakes OFF and 12V for BOTH when brakes on - fair enough but when the two wires to the CC are connected to these - no go !
Brake switch in my non-factory CC car has two wires whilst factory CC brake switch has 4. Difference being the two wires on the non-CC setup are an OPEN circuit until brakes applied then it closes to make the circuit.
The extra 2 posts on factory CC brake switch are a CLOSED circuit and OPEN when brakes applied to cut the CC. Makes sense but no matter which way I wire the thing it still doesn't pass the 1st diag mode of the CC (on the AP60 the LED shows for 8 secs after ign turned on to indicate a brake circuit malfunction).
FYI all three brake lights are functioning, look the same brightness but haven't checked bulb wattage/maker to ensure uniformity (have heard this can stop CC from working). Am also getting verfiied 12V and 0V on two wires to my brake switch.
Thought of getting the 4 post switch from toyota from $47 but don't wanna fork out if I'm not sure this is the fix.
any hints would be much appreciated - cheers !