Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Am after the procedure on how to tighten the front wheel bearing lock nut for a LWB 89 GQ Patrol.
Have two workshop manuals written by different publishers and each describe a different way of doing it.

How do you guys do it????

Thanks

Chook

Jack up one side of rig,

remove locking hub, circlip, and removethe hub splines and the spacer ring,
Remove the first large 54mm nut and washer, then adjust the next 54mm nut, checking for correct tension, then re assamble in reverse order,

its not hard, follow one of the manuals and the job should get done just fine.

ozy1 wrote:Jack up one side of rig,

remove locking hub, circlip, and removethe hub splines and the spacer ring,
Remove the first large 54mm nut and washer, then adjust the next 54mm nut, checking for correct tension, then re assamble in reverse order,

its not hard, follow one of the manuals and the job should get done just fine.

what he said, but replace the locking tab washer, they suck arse, and mine have failed 3+ times now, tested it the day before went in for op, and the wheelbearing was DANGEROUSLY loose... wheel moved about 3-4inches top and bottom...

Just out of interest, was it the left side that came loose?

AJS wrote:Just out of interest, was it the left side that came loose?

mine always is... what do u know that I dont

bogged wrote:

AJS wrote:Just out of interest, was it the left side that came loose?

mine always is... what do u know that I dont

Im guessing that the aussie roads have something to do whith it?

Mine came loose too and now I am guessing that it is due to the the fact that a right hand thread on a left side wheel is going to be rotating in the direction that the nut is moved when it is loosened, therefore helping it to come undone. I used to have a WW2 Jeep and it had left hand threads on the left side wheels. I have noticed that some trucks are also like this. My solution is to:

1. Tighten the nut to Nissan specs (can't remember off the top of my head but it is in the manual) with a torque wrench. This is not as simple as it sounds because you need a 53 mm sockect, which are farken scarce and expensive. Don't use those 55 mm tube spanners that some c---ts were trying to flog as they have too much slop. You have to make sure that the socket you get has enough clearance to reach alll the way into the hub (because of the taper). I am going to have to modify mine or buy a factory tool (probably expensive). If you could get a 53 mm tube spanner you could possibly weld a socket attachment into it. Anyone know if these are available?

2. Make sure that I rotate the wheel when tightening the nut to ensure the bearings are properly seated.

3. Use a new lock washer on the left hand side each time and bend it over in a couple of places.

4. Tighten the bejesus out of the lock nut.

5. Use a new circlip each time.

6. Check the wheel regularly.

Regards,

Tony

Sounds like a common problem, i've had the left come loose at least 8 times now. I've been told by one old timer that it can have something to do with after market bearing kits. The bearings have a chamfer different to the originals. Don't know how true this is though. I just tightened the hell out of mine last night with a 54mm inch drive socket i machined down to fit in the hub assembly. works like a treat

Steve GQ,

What size did you machine your socket down to to get it to fit into the hub?

I may try an OE wheel bearing on the left side if it comes undone again. Maybe the chamfer negates the turning/undoing effect.

Tony

I've got OE wheel bearings in mine on both sides, but the left side still comes loose. The right side hasn't come loose since i replaced them about 15 months ago.

I replaced my front wheel bearings (GQ) a couple of months ago. And the old bearings were still the original "KOYO" factory ones. Im pretty sure they were the same in dimension as my replacement bearings which are also "KOYO" brand.

You could go to the Jap import system to prevent your wheel bearings coming loose.
On my 89 Import GQ/Safari it has a nut that you adjust with a special tool from Nissan, or one you have made, then is locked in place by a washer. The washer sits on two flats on the stub axel which prevents it from turning and is inturn anchored to the adjusting nut by two grub screws.
The system must be common to the later model Oz spec patrols perhaps???
Any how, getting of the topic here a bit, sorry.......................

i use the late model auto locking hub system. gets rid of the locking tabs and uses 2 screws to stop it coming loose.
i tighten the bearings as tight as i can get them then lock it up with the screws. i dont have wheel bearing problems and have never had a bearing fail scutineering.

Mine is a 97 model and uses the 2 little screws to hold the adjustment where it's set. I did mine this weekend just passed.

My '85 Pajero had the same system too! It never came loose and was simple to adjust.

So from what I read above, do the early GQ's have the washer with lock tabs and the later models have the 2 srew system?

Cheers

My 89 import has the screw system

dieseldude wrote:Mine is a 97 model and uses the 2 little screws to hold the adjustment where it's set. I did mine this weekend just passed.

My '85 Pajero had the same system too! It never came loose and was simple to adjust.

So from what I read above, do the early GQ's have the washer with lock tabs and the later models have the 2 srew system?

Cheers

AFAIK the patrols fitted with manual locking hubs have the washer with the lock tabs. the auto lockers have the 2 screw system. and they dont come loose.

Steve_GQ wrote: I've been told by one old timer that it can have something to do with after market bearing kits. The bearings have a chamfer different to the originals.

Ive changed bearing shells on mine as well, and it still does it.

bogged wrote:

AJS wrote:Just out of interest, was it the left side that came loose?

mine always is... what do u know that I dont

The left wheel when turning under normal driving travels in the "undo the wheel bearing direction". If the locking tabs havent been replaced or not refitted correctly then that wheel WILL come loose.

The opposite occours to the right hand wheel, it will overtighten to the point where it will either fry the bearings and this WILL require the use of an oxy / accetelene to remove it all, and around 2 hours of work too along with new bearings, locking washer, and nuts.

A mate did his own and after only 10k's had the front left wheel fall OFF !
And his righthand side wheel almost welded itself to the axle. He managed to get it back together and then limped it to my place so I could fix it......
Took me half a day to get it fixed and he was damn lucky he didnt do more damage to threads and such.
It was a shyte of a job to do I might add

Where he went wrong was he reused the original locking tabs / washers ( a big NO NO in my book )
He also didnt fold the tab / washer in BOTH directions so it locked BOTH nuts in place.
The left wheel was simple to do with just a retighten and then correctly fitting the new locking tabs / washers........
The right hand side cost me the time.....
new nuts -- they were fried ( also I had to oxy em off !! )
new tabs / washers --- they were stuffed too
new bearings ---- toast ! & then burnt toast after they got the oxy too.
recut the thread on the hub --- damaged but recoverable ( just )... otherwise he would have been up for a new hub too !

-------------> HINT <-------------
The locking tab / washer MUST be folded in BOTH directions and lock BOTH nuts in place

Kingy

V8Patrol wrote:Where he went wrong was he reused the original locking tabs / washers ( a big NO NO in my book )

agree, they are only $8

He also didnt fold the tab / washer in BOTH directions so it locked BOTH nuts in place.

I do, but still have the issue, although since the last time I did it I havent checked

Can the hub be changed over to the srew locking system and if so, what is involved?

Thanx

you can buy the kit from Nissan

all you will need is

2 hub nuts
2 locking washers
4 screws

this is for the 2 sides (ie 1 nut,1 washer and 2 screws per side)

ok I know I'm bringing this one back from the dead but at least I did a search and its good info too. What I want to do is replace my wheel bearing nuts (all 4 of them) as they have been hacked up with a screwdriver and hammer a few too many times. Since I'm doing this I want to upgrade to the newer style with the locking screws that prevent it from coming loose. Can anyone advise me on the part numbers for everything I need to do the job. The nissan guy had no idea what I was on about.

40262-02J10 Nut ($10.43 each, you need 2)
01414-00051 Bolt ($1.64 each, you need 4)
40264-02J10 Washer ($7.39 each, you need 2)

these are the prices i paind in sydney about 6 months ago,

sweet, cheers mate that is exactly what I needed.

how do you know if they are loose

jack the car up so the wheel is in the air
grab the top and bottom of the wheel (12 + 6 o'clock positions)
try to wobble it in and out
if it moves, the bearings are loose

Funny, I have never had problems with my MQ left or right wheel loosening.

The MQ uses the tab washer system though the lock nuts are 52mm and an ordinary 52mm socket fits well. The problem I have had though is with the tab on the inside of the washer. This engages with a groove in the shaft and when you tighten the outer locknut this tab can strip allowing the inner locknut to turn so that you overtighten the bearings. To check whether this has happened I put a couple of punch marks on the tab washer before tightening the outer locknut. On the MQ the specified torque is 123 to 145 ft-lbs.