Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I got round to doing a body lift this long weekend - And yes they only thing Im having trouble is the low range gear lever (5 speed). I've done a search which brings up some good ideas on what to do.

I got the levers off, now wanting to bend it, I can;t work out how to get the rubber boot off that holds the two gear levers together! Im not so sure about heating it with all the boots still attached...

How did others do it?

Cheers, Glen

Yeah you have to slide the gearstick & t/case lever out of the rubber boot unfortunately it splits the boot in doing so. You can use a cable tie to clamp it back together when you re-install everything. The rubber boot is there for waterproofing etc.
Once you have the t/case lever exposed wrap a wet rag around the nylon bush and use a water spray bottle while a mate heats the vever shaft with an oxy and bends the lever.

Ah, i took the other method, took to the top piece that is pressed on with an angle grinder

I got Dad to help - heated it up and gave it a bend with the help of a wet rag, once i got it all back together, the jolly thing still doesn't stay in 2H. I guess it needs to be bent a little closer to the ball, I was about an inch above the spring thingie.

Cheers, Glen

has anyone tried cutting the lever and adding a section to it ????
I'am thinking of a lift myself where did u get the kit from & how much $

When I did mine my neighbour screwed it up tight in his vice, stuck a length of pipe over it, and "bounced" it into shape cold. He gave the end of the pipe a few hard "shoves" which caused his bench to tilt backwards, but got the shape I needed.

Now it only just makes it into gear at each end, but I think a large part of the problem is the dress boot being too compressed. If either of the coiled cables in the area fall into the wrong spot I can't change gears properly.

Scott

Scott are you talking about your big stick or the little one?? you have trouble changing gear??

Yep, if my mic cord or phone charger cord end up in the wrong spot either the transfer case won't go to an end position, or the big gearstick "feels different" as I change gear - a little more resistance, and it doesn't feel like it "drops in" properly. It's the cord interfering with that corrugated boot, not letting it compress properly.

I just curse, pull the cord out of the way and continue.

Scott

When I did my lift, I removed the insulation rubber assembly from the transfer stick and welded on a longer bolt. This functions well but allows more noise into the cabin. Thank Kenwood for big Sub's!!!

The main gear lever functions fine in my bus. No mods needed.

There are multiple posts in this thread that I'm replying to, but I can't be bothered quoting all the relevant bits, so here's what I did when I did my bodylift.

I had both the gearsticks cut and lengthened rather than bending them.
If you do this, you should make sure it's sleeved or strengthened somehow so that this doesn't happen.


Mine now has a piece of plate welded down the side of it

I also had to grind/cut small bits out of the centre console to make the transfer lever fit.

The rubber pleated/corrugated/whatever boots that go over the gearsticks were giving me problems changing gears so I junked them and had a new boot made up at the local autotrimmers.

The rubber boot that goes over the hole in the floor was pretty well shagged and after the bodylift it ripped right in half from the extra stretch it encountered. I went to Clark Rubber and found some thin stuff and made up a new one.

Do a search in here ( the Mitsu sections ) as it has been discussed before.

The shaft can be bent (in two places) and should not hit console or hole in the floor anywhere. (no need to go grind'n nuffin).

As for the rubber boot - trash the old one, go to Mitsubishi and buy a new one and put it back into the car UPSIDE DOWN. The connections to the shafts are now two inches lower than before.

Anyone got any pics of their extended lever?