Outer Limits 4x4 Board

There seems to be some hijacking of threads happening so lets just start one where people can use it for future searches.

After everyone has argued about it, group hug for all.

Please keep your ideas to the point, no NSW guys can drive this, VIC guys drive this. Just plain simple facts.

So who's got lux diffs, who's got zook diffs?

What do you break? (and be honest) Why do you break it?

Diff clearance with tyre size?

Installation cost, time etc.

No I don’t think we really have gone on about this enough. Just to bring in another aspect to this conversation… I remember reading in Petersen’s that a zook won TTC Hawaii on zook diffs running 37’s! Locked back and front on strengthened axels. Now try telling me NSW are more hardcore then them…

I run 33’s on flipped rims open back and front. I’m a shit driver so I just thrashed the hell out of it, including on the rocks. I never broke anything to do with the diffs. After more then 6 months of DD the original wheel bearings never made a noise!

I thought about starting a new thread but was to lasy.

Sorry stumped

I have lux diffs under my buggy. 100:1 crawl and 38" TSLs.

I havent busted anything yet (mainly as I havent wheeled it hard yet )

I like the fact they are stronger (stock lux compared to stock zook) and they are wider (more stability)

As for the whole NSW/VIC thing.......WGAF ? Whatever works for you

I'm runnning Sierra WTs with fronnt and rear lockers, 4.1 diff gears and 6;1 t/case with 34 Swampers on masively offset rims and haven't broken anything. before that i was running NTs same setup no breakages.

This combo works fine in Victorian conditions as we are usually running on low traction surfaces like dirt or mud

currently run standard SJ410 running gear, 31 inch handcut tyres, 4.16 rockhopper all behind a G13B. Do Enduro's and Trialling over here. Like grimbo we have a lot of grass/dirt/mud based 4 wheeling. Nothing broken yet. All getting transferred into a 413 flatdeck in the near future

31's on 7's running NT diffs. Mostly go full noise most places. Nuthing broke yet.

Running rocks / mud / carparks .

cheers

32s on 8in offset rims nt 1ltr diffs welded f+r s3rockhoppers 7psi
broken 1cv +1 crown wheel breakage took 18 months to occur.

i've got vitara front and rear. 35' simex on flipped offset rims. With 1.6EFI and a heavy right foot.
Rear is stock welded. I did bust a rear diff on sat. but it was my own fault cause i knew that it wasn't dialed in properly and went wheeling anyway. New centre in it now and its all good.
Front is a hybrid. Vitara centre with stock dana axles. Welded centre
Front was breaking hub bolts before i bought it but some of the parts have been remade and i've put hilux studs in the hub holding up so far. Steering is hydro so i suppose that may lead to more breakages.
Driving anything i can find. Rocks, dirt and even a little mud.

It'll be interesting to see how reliable i am over the next few months.

i ran wt zook diffs, stock r&p ratios, welded rear, s3 gears, 34x10.5" JT2, 2.5" bs 8" rims. had about 20-30hrs of bush time on it and didn't break. i did nurse it a lot and never reversed uphills. i sold it as i was not confident in what i considered to be a ticking timebomb. i hate changing cvs.

DeWsE wrote:

No I don’t think we really have gone on about this enough. Just to bring in another aspect to this conversation… I remember reading in Petersen’s that a zook won TTC Hawaii on zook diffs running 37’s! Locked back and front on strengthened axels. Now try telling me NSW are more hardcore then them…

I run 33’s on flipped rims open back and front. I’m a shit driver so I just thrashed the hell out of it, including on the rocks. I never broke anything to do with the diffs. After more then 6 months of DD the original wheel bearings never made a noise!

I thought about starting a new thread but was to lasy.

Sorry stumped

yeh he was runnin trail tough double tough axels (worth more then what my toy diffs cost)
after breakin them a couple of times he upgraded to d44's


i ran 33 mtrs on toys for over a year got bound up bad lots in revers hardlock every thing imaginable the cv's didnt make a sound nor did any thing else
that is with arilockers on rocks

ive come to the conclusion u cant bust a toy cv with 33's under a zuk
they also copped a cople of runs with 37's and no faliure

the new rig has 37's havent really done much wheeling with it just done tufftruck wich was pretty easy on parts (u didnt get bound up bad and have to take reverses and shit) so far it has held up but i expect to bust a cv but will go straight to beefed up ones

also have 12 3/4 diff clerance at road pressure on unshaven diffs

What do Zook WT Diffs weigh compared to Lux diffs?

lux diffs with 4.3's and series 3


welded front and no breaqkiages yet

when zooked broke 2 axles in 2 weeks on 33's and i wansnt on the noise at all.

zook diffs is say whould be about half the weight of luxies

I broke 3 zook CV's on 36's, but only in reverse, full lock up a bank or climb.
I also broke a rear axel, but I was ariborne, and it did finish with me on my roof

MQ diff's I havnt broken anything, though my car is way heavy now,
I realy noticed in the snow.

One MQ cool point is that they have way offset pumpkins, so clearance is pretty good.

Mock

I agree MQ Diffs are "strong like the bull"

My car is at about 1300kg with the MQ diffs and 36's

RB zook wrote:lux diffs with 4.3's and series 3


welded front and no breaqkiages yet

when zooked broke 2 axles in 2 weeks on 33's and i wansnt on the noise at all.

zook diffs is say whould be about half the weight of luxies

RB, where your zook diffs of the coiler variety

cuz they is 1ltr sized, and there is a huge size jump from 1ltr to 1.3ltr

mock

ljxtreem wrote:

RB zook wrote:lux diffs with 4.3's and series 3


welded front and no breaqkiages yet

when zooked broke 2 axles in 2 weeks on 33's and i wansnt on the noise at all.

zook diffs is say whould be about half the weight of luxies

RB, where your zook diffs of the coiler variety

cuz they is 1ltr sized, and there is a huge size jump from 1ltr to 1.3ltr

mock

yeah there coilier
cv's are same as 1 litre, never done a cv
tho the axles are same as 1.3 because thats wat replaced the broken one with

If your not breaking sh1t, stick with Zuk diffs

If you break sh1t, upgrade to toys

That is all.......

With the exception of the sig line, I agree with sawzall's post.
Peter.

hilux diffs.. open centres.. 33 claws..hp front..

no breakages yet.


and coil axles ARE NOT the same as 1lt.

3 years with 4age 1 litre trans case & diffs 31in tyres 3 broken diff centres.(NSW)
4 years 4age with 1gg 6cyl blower in 86 narrow track stock trans case & diffs,31in tyres no breakages at all. (NSW then driven to WA).

89 wide track 4agze series 3 with 3.7 diffs no c/v or axle breakages on 33 bfg mud terrains with sh..y clutch.

the series 3 broke after 3000ks (about 500 odd with the gze) no more gears available at the time,so went back to stock trans case with 4.1 diffs fitted some lockers broke one c/v.

fixed the clutch then fitted 34jt2's still stock trans case & same 4.1 diff ratios broke both c/v's & an axle on the 1 hill.

my 2c is while crawling with the right ratios & sensible tyres the zook diffs aren't too bad,but with bigger better tyres & the wrong ratios you have to carry too much wheel speed causing plenty of c/v & axle carnage.
_____________________________________________________________
currently looking at a diff upgrade & t/case gearing options ?????

Hmmmm yeah in regards to that rear diff drew.... I'll need it back one day, but no rush.

Drew wrote:3 years with 4age 1 litre trans case & diffs 31in tyres 3 broken diff centres.(NSW)
4 years 4age with 1gg 6cyl blower in 86 narrow track stock trans case & diffs,31in tyres no breakages at all. (NSW then driven to WA).

89 wide track 4agze series 3 with 3.7 diffs no c/v or axle breakages on 33 bfg mud terrains with sh..y clutch.

the series 3 broke after 3000ks (about 500 odd with the gze) no more gears available at the time,so went back to stock trans case with 4.1 diffs fitted some lockers broke one c/v.

fixed the clutch then fitted 34jt2's still stock trans case & same 4.1 diff ratios broke both c/v's & an axle on the 1 hill.

my 2c is while crawling with the right ratios & sensible tyres the zook diffs aren't too bad,but with bigger better tyres & the wrong ratios you have to carry too much wheel speed causing plenty of c/v & axle carnage.
_____________________________________________________________
currently looking at a diff upgrade & t/case gearing options ?????

Seems like the only stuff you broke is one litre stuff If u got 4.1 diff ratios
1ltr stuff is piss weak

Mock

I'm gonna agree Drew, I think that most breakages occurr when cars are incorrectly geared or otherwise set up and the drivers are getting on it to try and drive around those problems.

Even busting the front 1.0 CV in Mocks car was mostly because the rear diff was open adn the front welded so we were asking way too much of the front end.

sure, everything has limits and it is possible to break anything, but I think that zuk stuff is surprisingly durable even when well over torqued and tyred, so long as the nut behind the wheel has a bit of mechanical sympathy.

Binding is a big issue too - the CV I busted with gregs car was pretty much done on very light throttle, but the tyre was heavily bound into the firewall due to an inverted shackle, so something had to give.

Gwagensteve wrote:I'm gonna agree Drew, I think that most breakages occurr when cars are incorrectly geared or otherwise set up and the drivers are getting on it to try and drive around those problems.

Even busting the front 1.0 CV in Mocks car was mostly because the rear diff was open adn the front welded so we were asking way too much of the front end.

sure, everything has limits and it is possible to break anything, but I think that zuk stuff is surprisingly durable even when well over torqued and tyred, so long as the nut behind the wheel has a bit of mechanical sympathy.

Binding is a big issue too - the CV I busted with gregs car was pretty much done on very light throttle, but the tyre was heavily bound into the

firewall due to an inverted shackle, so something had to give.

Busted
By U

Mock

The 4.11s are from a maruti so they are 1.3 wide track diffs.

i broke 3x1 litre rear centres.

3 x 1.3 c/v's
1 rear axle
and i forgot twisted perches off 2 rear housings.
I only started breaking c/v's after fitting the front locker
But yes the c/v & axle breakages occurred due to incorrect gearing,but binding will do it too with the right gearing because of the torque increase on a bound wheel something has to give.

Thanks for loan of the diff dewse .
saved me from a very long night .

Drew wrote:The 4.11s are from a maruti so they are 1.3 wide track diffs.

i broke 3x1 litre rear centres.

3 x 1.3 c/v's
1 rear axle
and i forgot twisted perches off 2 rear housings.
I only started breaking c/v's after fitting the front locker
But yes the c/v & axle breakages occurred due to incorrect gearing,but binding will do it too with the right gearing because of the torque increase on a bound wheel something has to give.

Thanks for loan of the diff dewse .
saved me from a very long night .

Me thinks they are 1ltr, 1.3ltr width diffs
could be wrong

Mock

they are my 89 wide track diffs with maruti 4.1 centres.
maruti's are 1 litre 5spd long wheelbase utes with the same widetrack diffs just 4.1 centres.
yes they are a little rare & not that widely known of (re expensive)
not taking the piss lj i just stumbled apon the difference after the rockhopper broke & needed another way of gearing down a little.

mounting of lux diff under a wt? how is it done. i dont want to chop and change my chassis but changing the diffs a bit isnt out of the question?

redzook wrote: ive come to the conclusion u cant bust a toy cv with 33's under a zuk

done one last weeknd

went fairly easy

when w/t a few cvs some with 30 bfs and some with 33 boggers
now lux diffs 1short side cv on 35 claws. Welded all round and all on roc