Outer Limits 4x4 Board

anyone got any good ideas for getting super tight nuts undone? this is the nut that holds the rear output flange on a landcruiser transfer case - normally a blat with the rattle gun and they come off, without even bothering to unstake the nut. This one I have unstaked (the staked portions of the nut are now completely broken off) and have tried a 3' redfern bar with all my weight on, as well as jacking under the end of the breaker bar.

I would try nudging it with the engine running and in a low gear but the sump is off for a big end bearing job. it may have to wait until the bearings are done?

any other suggestions?

what rattle gun is it I had a similar prob with a tcase flangs nut and had to go to an engineering shop with a top notch expensive rattle gun.

3 average guns had failed

1. Bigger Rattle gun

2. Soak it for a number of days in a penetrating lubticant, Wurth Rost Off is the pick of the bunch for loosening nuts & bolts.

3. Apply heat to the nut with oxy so it expands & then rattle it off. How much heat you have to apply depends on when it will move. Provided you dont get it too hot then you wont damage the output shaft.

We have some big arse nuts and bolts on our machines here,

The fitters use a flogging spanner, basically a spanner that is for hitting with a hammer. Made from the similar ingredients as a impact socket and designed to be hit.

Sometimes hitting like this is better than a small rattle gun.

Use a decent spanner though otherwise it might make things worse

Im having a similar problem on the GQ at the moment.

I cant get the fill or drain plugs out of the gearbox or transfer case

They are the internal 1/2" plugs.

I have donr similar to what dunmbdunce has done- big breaker bar etc

Any ideas ?

Shorty40 wrote:Im having a similar problem on the GQ at the moment.

I cant get the fill or drain plugs out of the gearbox or transfer case

They are the internal 1/2" plugs.

I have donr similar to what dunmbdunce has done- big breaker bar etc

Any ideas ?

Give them a whack on the top with the hammer (But not too hard as to break the casing), this will losen the thread & dont do them up too tight when you put them back in. They are a tapered thread & if you do then too tight you will never get them out. I only ever do mine up to about the 1/4 of my strength with a ratchet, dont even think of doing them up with a breaker bar.

ok a combination of oxy plus a lube job on the rattle gun plus 150psi on the rattle gun gor it off. it took a lot of heat. I didn't take the oxy option straight away because my o2 clyinder was empty so I had to take a nice scenic drive down to BOC. all good now.

with the gearbox plugs, sometimes it's necessary to weld a nut to them to get them out. the heat of welding loosens them up and the nut gives you something more substantial to turn against.



cheers

mkpatrol wrote:

Shorty40 wrote:Im having a similar problem on the GQ at the moment.

I cant get the fill or drain plugs out of the gearbox or transfer case

They are the internal 1/2" plugs.

I have donr similar to what dunmbdunce has done- big breaker bar etc

Any ideas ?

Give them a whack on the top with the hammer (But not too hard as to break the casing), this will losen the thread & dont do them up too tight when you put them back in. They are a tapered thread & if you do then too tight you will never get them out. I only ever do mine up to about the 1/4 of my strength with a ratchet, dont even think of doing them up with a breaker bar.

Thats not very comforting

I will give it a tap tonight

I have the dreaded notchy GQ second gear Figured some fresh oil couldn't hurt

Shorty40 wrote:

mkpatrol wrote:

Shorty40 wrote:Im having a similar problem on the GQ at the moment.

I cant get the fill or drain plugs out of the gearbox or transfer case

They are the internal 1/2" plugs.

I have donr similar to what dunmbdunce has done- big breaker bar etc

Any ideas ?

Give them a whack on the top with the hammer (But not too hard as to break the casing), this will losen the thread & dont do them up too tight when you put them back in. They are a tapered thread & if you do then too tight you will never get them out. I only ever do mine up to about the 1/4 of my strength with a ratchet, dont even think of doing them up with a breaker bar.

Thats not very comforting

I will give it a tap tonight

I have the dreaded notchy GQ second gear Figured some fresh oil couldn't hurt

Also try the heat, but you will only want to warm the housing on th4e gearbox beacause you will damage the housing, plenty of monkey piss will help.
The Wurth Rost Off is the best, I have undone rusted & seized bolts with it thet the others have just wet the outside & were about to break. It does get in.

Its not very comforting to know that you have an oxy on my transfercase dumbdAnce.

All i can think of, is, lucky i have a warranty.

Dan,

dude mine came loose easy enough with a breaker bar and a tap from a hammer......

when ever i cant get a bolt or nut undone i use my little mapp gass torch..... gets plenty of heat in and if for some reason thats not enough....... out comes the oxy

carts wrote:Its not very comforting to know that you have an oxy on my transfercase dumbdAnce.

All i can think of, is, lucky i have a warranty.

it's lucky I'm giving you a fixed price - your transfer case was so filthy I only finished putting it back together at 3am this morning

hmmm I think your big end bearings are going to take alllllllllll day...

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:when ever i cant get a bolt or nut undone i use my little mapp gass torch

Those MAPP Gas torches kick ass.
I bought one a couple of weeks ago.
Just the thing for heating bolts.

I have also found the best penetrating lube to be "Inox"

Paul.

Another option for you is to use one of those new 12V wheel nut removal tools that you can buy everywhere for about $99. Allegedly Mark from Marks Adapters uses them for what you are describing, when their rattle guns don't work.

They work by spinning up a flywheel and then when they get to a sufficient speed, engaging a dog clutch to the output shaft. This applies a huge whack to the nut. These devices are truly amazing. I undid the nut from the front of my alternator without even stopping the alternator from turning with the driver.

Richard.

rlaxton wrote:Another option for you is to use one of those new 12V wheel nut removal tools ...

tried that, no good - I think it makes marginally more torque than the rattle gun but more often than not the higher frequency impacts of the rattle gun win anyway.

3/4" rattle gun... you'll just need a fair bit of air, used that for the 41mm nut inside the mq box when a half inch rattle gun wouldn't even touch it. Didn't even break a sweat.

Problem for me is I wouldnt be able to get a rattle gun into the grearbox or transfer case fillers

Shorty40 wrote:Problem for me is I wouldnt be able to get a rattle gun into the grearbox or transfer case fillers

Thats good thing as the rattle gun would bugger them, better off with a long breaker bar.

I soaked the plugs with WD (not the best, but its all I had) overnight.

I was using my trolley jack handle as a breaker bar

So I had about 50cm of leverage on the nut. All I accomplished was twisting the 1/2" drive on my ratchet

I want to try the heat thing - but I dont have an oxy (or anything similar)

Might have to admit defeat and take it to a mechanic I will get the wife to do it so I dont look like such a dumbass

Shorty40 wrote:I soaked the plugs with WD (not the best, but its all I had) overnight.

I was using my trolley jack handle as a breaker bar

So I had about 50cm of leverage on the nut. All I accomplished was twisting the 1/2" drive on my ratchet

I want to try the heat thing - but I dont have an oxy (or anything similar)

Might have to admit defeat and take it to a mechanic I will get the wife to do it so I dont look like such a dumbass

if there is space, try welding a bit of bar to the plug, so you can put a bit of pipe over the end of the bar so you can at least crack it.

if it's an alloy gearbox, the heat thing probably won't work anyway.

I once change the gearbox in my datto, and had to pull the gearbox out again because I could not get the fill plug out. I was this close || to rolling the car on its side to fill the gearbox up.

When I bought my Rangie I could not get any of the wheel nuts off. We tried a breaker bar with a 1.5m peice of bar on the end with a fat mate bouncing on it. We had soaked them with wd40 and no go. We left them overnight with a good soaking of more WD40 and still couldn't get them off even with the mate doing his best baboon impression on the end of the breaker bar. A mate of mine worked for a crane company so we sent to their workshop to get them off. A 1/2" snap on rattle gun would not even budge them. At this point I started to contemplate replacing the whole front end instead. We ended up getting them off with a 1" drive two handled rattle gun. These even sound grunty. It took them off like a not knife through butter. Strangely enough all threads and nuts were OK. Glad I didn't find out how tight they were on the beach or in the boonies.

Shorty40 wrote:I soaked the plugs with WD (not the best, but its all I had) overnight.

I was using my trolley jack handle as a breaker bar

So I had about 50cm of leverage on the nut. All I accomplished was twisting the 1/2" drive on my ratchet

I want to try the heat thing - but I dont have an oxy (or anything similar)

Might have to admit defeat and take it to a mechanic I will get the wife to do it so I dont look like such a dumbass

When you do finally remove them, go to Toyota to get the replacement plug. When you do ask for the plug with the large head on it instead of the stupid skinny ones they put in from factory.

If they look at you blankly the pm me & I will get the part number for you from my mate here at Canberra Toyota.

The sise of the hex is the same just thicker & they are 25 times harder to strip the head off.

auto_eng wrote:Glad I didn't find out how tight they were on the beach...

a rising tide is the source of incredible superhuman strength when you are broken down below the high tide line...

mkpatrol wrote:

Shorty40 wrote:I soaked the plugs with WD (not the best, but its all I had) overnight.

I was using my trolley jack handle as a breaker bar

So I had about 50cm of leverage on the nut. All I accomplished was twisting the 1/2" drive on my ratchet

I want to try the heat thing - but I dont have an oxy (or anything similar)

Might have to admit defeat and take it to a mechanic I will get the wife to do it so I dont look like such a dumbass

When you do finally remove them, go to Toyota to get the replacement plug. When you do ask for the plug with the large head on it instead of the stupid skinny ones they put in from factory.

If they look at you blankly the pm me & I will get the part number for you from my mate here at Canberra Toyota.

The sise of the hex is the same just thicker & they are 25 times harder to strip the head off.

Ummm its a Nissan Patrol - I imagine the people behind the counter will definately give me a blank look Followed by the finger

But yeah, good idea. Or maybe I just wont get Arnie to do them up in the first place

My bad, having a blonde moment, dont know why I went to the dark side then when we were talking about the Alliance in the first place.

Just did the same thing to the missus in an email, she just sent me backe one of these

dumbdunce wrote:if there is space, try welding a bit of bar to the plug, so you can put a bit of pipe over the end of the bar so you can at least crack it.

It is one of those internal square plugs (if that makes sense). It has a square internal hole sort of like an allen key hole.

Its sits flush with case No room to weld anything on to

That, and the fact I dont have a welder or the fact I wouldnt have a clue how to use one

Shorty40 wrote:

dumbdunce wrote:if there is space, try welding a bit of bar to the plug, so you can put a bit of pipe over the end of the bar so you can at least crack it.

It is one of those internal square plugs (if that makes sense). It has a square internal hole sort of like an allen key hole.

Its sits flush with case No room to weld anything on to

That, and the fact I dont have a welder or the fact I wouldnt have a clue how to use one

If its sitting flush with the case the its definately been screwed in too far, they normally sit about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch proud when tight.

mkpatrol wrote:My bad, having a blonde moment, dont know why I went to the dark side then when we were talking about the Alliance in the first place.

Just did the same thing to the missus in an email, she just sent me backe one of these

Never ever go to your missus's dark side. Just not worth it.

auto_eng wrote:

mkpatrol wrote:My bad, having a blonde moment, dont know why I went to the dark side then when we were talking about the Alliance in the first place.

Just did the same thing to the missus in an email, she just sent me backe one of these

Never ever go to your missus's dark side. Just not worth it.

Been there, wrote a book about it.

U doing any work today or what?

Yep, I've been under the pump all day today. Just stepped back into the office after being out in the boonies. I did a 18.5 hour day on Tuesday so I am not going to work this weekend and try to get some progess on the Rangie. How's the stress level at your place today?