Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have found loads of info on the OL board, but can't find any sizes or prices available on Simex sites.
Any info or opinions welcome.
I intend to only fit one tube to a tyre that leaks round the bead at low pressures, and is fine at road pressures???
If it works and is affordable, I may fit all 4 tyres with them.
Is there any other heavy duty tube makers?
I am not losing the bead, just the air.'
There was a lot of mud/stones/sand and whatever in the beads, and one part of bead looks a bit sad.
I'm running Mongrels 31 x 10:50 x 15 on 8" rims
christover

never used them, but heard theyre about $50-$70 ea and you should get an inch bigger than your tyre.
I prolly read all that on OL anyway, so no news to an old hand like yourself..

i think pro comp have them for $38 ea. give em a call. 97056677

hottiemonster wrote:i think pro comp have them for $38 ea. give em a call. 97056677

thanx, may be a good quick fix, and time will tell if I should do the others or not. I am a little hesitant to glue and/or screw, too barbaric even for me I should be at the procomp ramp day, can have a gander there.
christover

munga wrote: and you should get an inch bigger than your tyre..

thanx,
thats odd, I've been told "one size fits all" but I am finding that idea hard to accept.
guess that's why I research a lot,
facts can get lost in all the excitement

christover

Chris,

just remember a tyre with a tube is not as forgiving as tubless tyre.

Tube tyres go down very fast when tube developes a hole. If you will run than at low pressure offroad there is a chance the rubbish may get past the bead and then stuff the tube...... or even screw into the tyre which is a pain with tubless cause they leak is more of a hassle with tubes cause they deflate real quick and no amount of air will get you out of the bush unless you remove and repair prior to reinflating....

My suggestion would be to break the bead on the leaking tyre.
then clean everything up......then run a bead of sikaflex around the leaking bead and re-inflate tyre. Sikaflex will seal any imperfection if not huge and will stick the tyre to the rim......Tubless tyres are better left tubeless unless you really need to run a tube....

James

jtraf wrote:Chris,
then run a bead of sikaflex around the leaking bead and re-inflate tyre. ....James

thanks James
That thought has entered my mind, too.
Got till thursday to decide. (pay day of course)
I am a little scared of tubes, tho these simex ones seem to be ok for most who have used them.
I think the Adventure Tour lump of wood found between bead and rim may be the source of the damage
Tho its leaking in two spots...
They did get crud in both fronts, but cleaning fixed one, and this one too I thought... joeys test day hilighted the low pressure leaks.
a tube of sikaflex aint cheap, but may do all 4 tyres, and/or both beads???
christover

http://www.sika.com.au/cmc/Datasheets/tds/Sikaflex11FC_tds.pdf

did you try the sikaflex thing christover?

munga wrote:http://www.sika.com.au/cmc/Datasheets/tds/Sikaflex11FC_tds.pdf

did you try the sikaflex thing christover?

No mate, I decided to try the heavy duty Simex tube, only in the one that was leaking, though. Then will decide on the others after the test of time....I not tried it at low pressure or off road as yet.
Was only $20 so worth a try, can't afford internal bead lox

christover

Yeah I got the heavy duty tubes from Procomp about a year ago now (for 34x11.5x15 JT2's).
At the time they were $30Ea fitted there was a lighter duty tube available also for $25Ea fitted.
Haven't had a problem with them.

christover1 PM old yella he runs the Simex tubes

I have simex tubes in my tyres, these tyres have gone through 3 owners and none of us have ever lost a bead with them, or had a tyre go flat

berazafi wrote:I have simex tubes in my tyres, these tyres have gone through 3 owners and none of us have ever lost a bead with them, or had a tyre go flat

Ditto

And I cant complain at all about em.

I've run down to 5 psi on heaps of occasions in both sand and mud situations and never came close to rolling a tyre off of a rim.
Mud does have a tendancy to invade the actual bead area but is squeezed out quickly once aried back up.

I looked quite seriously at beadlocks for a while and these were such a great option for those on a limited budget I went for em.

Kingy

is it true that you should get one inch bigger than your tyres? ive only got 28's...

My suggestion would be to break the bead on the leaking tyre.
then clean everything up......then run a bead of sikaflex around the leaking bead and re-inflate tyre. Sikaflex will seal any imperfection if not huge and will stick the tyre to the rim......Tubless tyres are better left tubeless unless you really need to run a tube....

James

im going to give this ago myself, ive got a 32in ET that has a slow leak on the bead, ive tried cleaning it but it still leaks, ill let you know how it goes

Arrived in my garage to find the other front tyre flat as a tack :(
So we now have a HD tube in both fronts, so I do hope they are good
Must say I was happy with the service at Dynamic 4x4, I rocked up unannounced, only wanted 1 tube fitted, they did it while I waited, good price, and I was treated with respect...these things often don't happen in some joints unless your spending a million bucks.

christover

I've been running the Simex heavy duty tubes for the past 12 months, and I'm happy with them. You can run low pressures without fear of a bead failure, and they are sooo thick conpared to other tubes. But one thing is they are still no beadlock and if you run them too low you can spin your tyres on the rim and tear off a valve.

Sorry Chris, I have arived at this thread a bit late
I have 4 simex tubes in the shed to fit your car, you can have them if you want. sorry I am late.
Peter.

droopypete wrote:Sorry Chris, I have arived at this thread a bit late
I have 4 simex tubes in the shed to fit your car, you can have them if you want. sorry I am late.
Peter.

yes please, and thanks.
spares are always useful, and rears may need them in the future, judging by how fast the fronts did.
Am very busy right now, with a family crisis, so will come get em when I can.
thanks
christover

The simex tubes have been great so far. but.
I broke a valve stem, or cracked it anyway.
The fronts have had them for a year or so.
I put the tyre on the back recently, not sure if that was a cause.
Tyre wasn't flat, but spinning of tyre on rim is possible? Tho the valve stem was not on an angle.

Got a new tube today, and noticed the black plastic hole protector/sleeve thing.
This wasn't used, befor, as my hole was too small.
Do we think redrilling the hole and fitting the sleeve is a good idea, or not worth it.
I'm thinking the tight fit of valve stem against the metal may have caused the weakening of the stem?
And with the sleeve, it may move enough not to strain the valve stem.
I had a cable tie round stem, as suggested by competition users.
I may try without, same thinkin?

christover

Oi,

The only bloke in the world to talk to about your problem is Ryano at Fourbys. His number is 07 3892 2766. If he can't solve your problem or supply the tubes, your problem aint worth talking about...lol
Damo

!!!DaMoRoCkS!!! wrote:Oi,

The only bloke in the world to talk to about your problem is Ryano at Fourbys. His number is 07 3892 2766. If he can't solve your problem or supply the tubes, your problem aint worth talking about...lol
Damo

Many thanks, but I get em real cheap, as I'm very close to Dynamic 4x4 in Melbourne.
The tubes have been great, no leaky beads, no beads coming off.
I was very surprised that it broke, tho very impressed that the tyre stayed up long enough to complete some extreme tracks and to get home. Was the mornin after when tyre went flat.
I moved the valve to check it and noticed the hole ar edge of rim.

christover

i bought my 36" peede's 2nd hand with 4 simex tubes in them and on all 4 rims the valve holes have been reamed out with a drill for the plastic bit your talking about, iv run them at low pressures without dramas for the last 6 months

InSanE wrote:i bought my 36" peede's 2nd hand with 4 simex tubes in them and on all 4 rims the valve holes have been reamed out with a drill for the plastic bit your talking about, iv run them at low pressures without dramas for the last 6 months

I think I will do that to just one tyre, this time, as a trial run, if it worx ok, I can do the rest as I go.

It makes sense.
You live and learn I guess

christover

christover1 wrote:

!!!DaMoRoCkS!!! wrote:Oi,

The only bloke in the world to talk to about your problem is Ryano at Fourbys. His number is 07 3892 2766. If he can't solve your problem or supply the tubes, your problem aint worth talking about...lol
Damo

Many thanks, but I get em real cheap, as I'm very close to Dynamic 4x4 in Melbourne.
The tubes have been great, no leaky beads, no beads coming off.
I was very surprised that it broke, tho very impressed that the tyre stayed up long enough to complete some extreme tracks and to get home. Was the mornin after when tyre went flat.
I moved the valve to check it and noticed the hole ar edge of rim.

christover

Damo... you're a clown!

Christover - this is one of the disadvantages of running tubes. At lower pressures and with a bit of 'torqueing' through the tyre, the tube and tyre can spin on the rim. This twists the valve stem and the rim cuts through the base. By running a feral (the little plastic bit) it does tend to protect the valve stem a lot more and stop the rim from cutting. After a trip, it might pay to check the angles on the stems. If they are leaning over, let the air out, bust the beads and spin the tyre/ tube back around so that it is perpendicular again.

Hope this helps,
Ryano

Ryano wrote:
Christover - this is one of the disadvantages of running tubes. At lower pressures and with a bit of 'torqueing' through the tyre, the tube and tyre can spin on the rim. This twists the valve stem and the rim cuts through the base. By running a feral (the little plastic bit) it does tend to protect the valve stem a lot more and stop the rim from cutting. After a trip, it might pay to check the angles on the stems. If they are leaning over, let the air out, bust the beads and spin the tyre/ tube back around so that it is perpendicular again.

Hope this helps,
Ryano

thanx, much appreciated.
I did check the angle, and it was straight.
A mate could hear a leak near the valve, so I checked and it was straight then, and it was still straight later after driving home and in the morn..Never thought it would be leaking from a hole in the tube
But when I popped the bead, one bead was very easy to get off.
I guess putting it on the rear may have stressed it more.
I'd prefer tubeless, but having cheap mongrels and modded rims may be adding to the bead leaks. I've never lost a bead on either tubes or tubeless.
I guess there is likely to be more torque twist ( torque and zook in same sentence ) on the rears, so the tubed may go back on the front.

christover

V8Patrol wrote:

berazafi wrote:I have simex tubes in my tyres, these tyres have gone through 3 owners and none of us have ever lost a bead with them, or had a tyre go flat

Ditto

And I cant complain at all about em.

I've run down to 5 psi on heaps of occasions in both sand and mud situations and never came close to rolling a tyre off of a rim.
Mud does have a tendancy to invade the actual bead area but is squeezed out quickly once aried back up.

I looked quite seriously at beadlocks for a while and these were such a great option for those on a limited budget I went for em.

Kingy

Just curious, why do you deflate your tyres to 5psi in mud?

I fitted up the new HD tube, today, with the hole redrilled to fit the plastic sleeve.
Looks much happier now. Wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, but I still hate workin on tyres. The old tube did show signs of rim cutting into valve stem, but it wasn't twisted. The valve stem was extremely jammed tight. So my guess is too tight, as things moved around, the rim was eating its way thru the valve.

I guess it gets the test of time..On the rear again.

I wanted to rotate the tyres, as rears were wearing faster, due to welded diff I guess, certainly not from power burnouts

christover