Outer Limits 4x4 Board

OK, i've had huge front mounts on EFI road cars before. But never a TD. The vehicle in question is a 80 series 1HZ, DTS kit and boost compensater. I can get a 780x300x76mm bar and plate i/c fairly cheaply (one of those Hybrid ones), and it will JUST fit. My major concern is the restricted air flow to the radiator. As it is now, i cant get the thing hot (IE:- flat-out in sand on 35deg. day!), so this is how i would like to keep it! The EFI petrol cars ive had have never had a problem with cooling after a big i/c is fitted(bar and plate aswell).

Anyone out there done this to ANY TD, not just a cruiser??

And before you ask, no, im not going a top mount or water to air

Phill

I stuffed one in front of my 2.8t GQ and love it to bits

The Temp use to hit the red going up hills before I fitted the IC
And the power used to drop off.

But with the IC now fitted`The temp stays cool and i now have more power than before and stays on strong

And no I dont have any photos yet

You could ditch the fan and install twin thermo fans to cool the radiator

The pipe`s from the turbo to the intercooler get way to hot to touch

But from the intercooler to engine is stone cold

Stool,
Thats some interesting info. Is it tube and fin, or a bar and plate cooler? And what size is it?? noticeably more turbo lag??

Cheers, Phill

780 X 340 X 95MM

I used 51mm stainless steel tube as to reduced lag and it must have worked because their is no extra lag than before

But Id say you will need bigger tube on a 4.2 for more flow than my puny 2.8

Sorry tube and fin

Good on you mate! Yeah, i'd have to use 2.5" pipes. Where did you get it from??

Got the Intercooler made up at Hyperflow

And got the stainless from and welded fron a mate

Hood fabrication services

0411 412 745

Ahh no worries. I got a mate that does magic fabrication work, but i dont want him to do it, cos i reckon i can do it a fair bit cheaper than him. i will just use mild steel pipes, cos i can weld that

Mild steel will rust and bugger your motor when bits flake off .

i third the above two comments, it is recomended to steer clear of mild steel in Turbo and intercooler piping, Metal flakes going through your pride and joy not what id like, you can either go Stainless, or what about alloy?

yer i recon alloy would be ok i think

if it does corrode on the inside any flakes that come off could possibly melt when mixed with the fuel and ignited but would have to be very mild/weak grade alluminium ,but im no expert so i duno

you could go steel pipe and get it coated, nickel, gold passivate or hpc etc but for the cost i"d go stainless and it looks neater tig welded

alloy is ok to use as intercooler piping .. after all I/C are alloy

did I send you pics of Carts's setup? his intercooler is HUGE and almost completely covers the radiator but coolant temps are DOWN and power is up a LOT (running 12.5psi peak on the 2H). The lag is actually improved over the non intercooler setup, I put it down to the consistently higher density air and the inertia of the long column of air in the plumbing - it was necessary to fit a BOV too (2H has throttle) as on gearchanges boost was spiking well off the top of the 15psi gauge.

I wouldn't be as worried as everyone else about running mild steel - as long as you keep the crankcase breather plumbed into it, it's always going to have a nice coating of oil inside - but the $$ is in the bends and welding, the price difference in material will only be a small variation.

you should get your TIG-master friend to section your inlet manifold and move the inlet to the front to streamline the flow, as per atached pic - this is a 1HD-T with a big fat turbo and looks like the batteries have been removed to make space for the plumbing too...

Brian,
Didnt see pics of Carts setup?? Altho that 1HD has given me some ideas

I will be getting the steel pipes HPC coated, black, as its a 2 coat finish whereas the silver stuff is single coat.

have a front mounted safari unit on my GU, love it, no more lage I could tell, and great on the HWY

slowhilux wrote:Brian,
Didnt see pics of Carts setup?? Altho that 1HD has given me some ideas

I will be getting the steel pipes HPC coated, black, as its a 2 coat finish whereas the silver stuff is single coat.

surely the work + coating of mild steel will make it more expensive than stainless in the first place? stainless is no harder to weld than mild steel.

will try and dig up those pics.

dumbdunce wrote: boost was spiking well off the top of the 15psi gauge....

Might be a dumb question.... was the guage a standard boost guage, to pick up the spike? and do you have any more pics of the 1HD-T?

Cliffy wrote:

dumbdunce wrote: boost was spiking well off the top of the 15psi gauge....

Might be a dumb question.... was the guage a standard boost guage, to pick up the spike? and do you have any more pics of the 1HD-T?

yes standard gauge, but the spike was pegging the gauge past 15psi for a significant time. I put it down to the increase in volume of boost pressure air, plus the increase in density due to the intercooler, causing a very high increase in mass flow (ie significantly more inertia) in the inlet airstream.

sorry no other pics of that 1HD-T, I wish I had some, it looks like a weapon.

slowhilux wrote: Altho that 1HD has given me some ideas

I think I have given up on those ideas for the multivalve... the 12 inlet runners on the inlet are a bit fragile looking, I wouldn't want it to get cocked up while it was being worked on :(

mine is a safari cooler with rubber tubing for the air when i brought it i thought rubber fuck that i will get some alloy ones made up, But then i did a service and had to changer the air fillter and trust me if it runs in front of the air box you have to remove the piping that goes to the outlet to the intake. Rubber one just push out the way

Also when we are on the subject i recently read something that was intresting,

On a turbo petrol motor the intercooler lowers the intake air to make more power and the motor can be run leaner to take advantage of this

But on a desiel motor,

The air needs to be hot to to egnite the fuel so buy lowering the air temp the motor would blow more unburt fuel out the exhurts

I also read not too touch the fuel on an after market turbo as it make the air hotter but if im lowering the temp of the air with the intercooler then i would think it would be ok to turn up the fuel to make more power,

Im seriously considering doing this if i will not crack pistons, any thoughs I might make a thread.

Here are some pics of cart's setup

some more