Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys . Did RUF to my sierra today. instead of extending the chasis i re-drilled the rear mounting position back by 25mm. and using extended shackles i have kept the diff in about the stock position. no messing about shocks or steering was needed.
I used the 2 main leaves out of a set of stock rears and the 3 load leaves out of my lifted fronts. Shackles are 110mm hole to hole.
It flex's up alot better than it did before and rides alot softer. only problem is i messed up what sides the go in and it is leaning badly to the drivers side. have to fix that soon

Wheres the pics then.

You have done it almost the same as mine. I cut the mount off and rewelded it back 2".

cheers

yeah get pics of it flexin up. I'll probably do mine the same way it seems

I'll try get some of mine flexin as well as they are similar.

cheers

i tried to post pics but they didnt work. I think they are too big.

for a test run i put 2 car ramps infront of oposite wheels and drive up onto them. brake lines are now a bit short.
pics are in my msn group http://groups.msn.com/EXTREMEOFFROADPHO ... front.msnw

hey all, my mate wants to do a RUF with standard rear suzuki leaves.

B4T, how does your RUF go? have you had any problems yet?

he's thinking about doing what you've done, and redrilling the front rear mount for the leaf, and keeping his shackles on. his shackles are 150 hole to hole, will this work?

and if he just uses the 3 main leaves all round, and take out the 2 load leaves, will it be ok?

he just wants as much flex as he can get, as there isnt an option for lockers, or spoa yet.

maybe looking at doing a shackle reversal with RUF. how can we do this? same way or not? and how would we mount the shackle at the rear of the front leaves? do we need to make a new mount? is this possible without a chassis extension?

thanks heaps.
Steve

half the advantage of doing RUF is cuz it moves the diff forward, giving u more fire wall clearance, if you just redrill the rear holes you are only doing half the job.


Mock

i have an old set of rears, but they are no lift, currently have 2 inch lift. so can i take the old rear main and then which springs can i use off the lift ones trying to keep same level as back. This may sound silly i know the big long one is main, but what are the rest called. is the helper the upside down one? or is it the one closer to the axle starting from the main.
and rears up front i understand teh more flex and fire wall but how does the shock mounts and the steering go, has any one for a ruf walk thru ?

thanks in advance, might of come up but search returns like pages.
bj

ljxtreem wrote:half the advantage of doing RUF is cuz it moves the diff forward, giving u more fire wall clearance, if you just redrill the rear holes you are only doing half the job.


Mock

acknowledged. thanks

i used the two main rear leaves and the 3 smaller front lifted springs and have achieved about a 3 inch lift. just make sure the spring packs go in the correct sides as drivers side have a higher spring rate. otherwise it will lean to the drivers side big time. will have to fix this on the weekend

built4thrashing wrote:i used the two main rear leaves and the 3 smaller front lifted springs and have achieved about a 3 inch lift. just make sure the spring packs go in the correct sides as drivers side have a higher spring rate. otherwise it will lean to the drivers side big time. will have to fix this on the weekend

When buying lifted springs should they be labelled as to what side they go on. I put 2" lifted springs in mine bout 6 months ago and it leans a tad to the drivers side. Any other way of telling if Ive stuffed up??

Mines the same but they were not labeled. I will have to have a play with the packs.

cheers

Mine were labelled and it doesn't appear to lean at all. They are 2" Kings.
I guess with the spare (on softys), the battery and the driver on the same side, a bit of a lean isn't suprising.

EVERYTHING is on the right.. not very well planned on suzuki's part =)

fuel tank, driver, majority of engine, and the driveshaft torque is delivered to the right also... very noticeable when the carby runs rough and you give it a blip on the throttle, youll really feel it compress the drivers side springs... then to think its doing this every time you accelerate or change gears - the RHS springs get a lot more work than the LHS.

there was a post about the suzuki lean a while ago. http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... light=lean
Mines leaning atleast an inch or more even without me in it.

ok heve re-done the RUF and put the springs on the correct sides and it sits better but still not perfect. Replaced a leaf on the passenger side to a softer leaf . heaps better but still not perfect. While apart i re-drilled the perches and moved the diff forward about 20mm. Shocks bolt back up without any problems, steering is clear and doesn't touch the diff, and the only thing left to do is get longer brakelines and maybe lift the upper shock mounts.

flex photos are here http://groups.msn.com/EXTREMEOFFROADPHO ... snw?Page=1

built4thrashing wrote:flex photos are here http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ex ... gr&.view=t

dont work
dosent in the other thread either

pics are now in a new place http://groups.msn.com/EXTREMEOFFROADPHO ... snw?Page=1

Could you post up a better pic of how far back you've drilled the hole?

What's the easiest way to drill the holes? I tried and found I was chewing through the drill bit too quickly so I didn't really get it done.

i drill the rear hangers back 20 >25mm. easiest way is to make up a templateand both sides will end up the same. you will have to drill holes up a bit too so ya dont get to close to the edge of the hanger. predrill with a smaller drill first then with a 13mm drill

have got extended brake lines now and the ruf works well. brake lines were mad 2in longer and dont restrict travel anymore. Cost $80 fitted with a full brake bleed. hasnt effected braking ability at all.

i have come across this thread while searching the bible

if i do a ruf with stock springs and leave stock springs in the back will the front of my zook sit higher?

Should i make longer shackels for the back?
im doing a spoa at the same time.

out of interest, did you have to change the shocks when doing RUF?

zukirolly


out of interest, did you have to change the shocks when doing RUF?

i havent done it yet. but i wil be getting longer shocks as im doing a spoa at the same time

You will need to change shocks to gain any benefits.

Also depending on shocks you will need to move the upper mounts

im running a slightly shorter spring in mine to stop the drivers side lean. it sits 10mm high on the drivers side empty and pretty well spot on with me in it.

ruf will give you a lift so you will need to adjust the rear to suit. but there is only about 1/2 inch difference

i finished my ruf over the weekend. stock springs alround and longer shackles in the front. the zook sit 4 mm higher on the drivers side now.
im thinking of doing a chassis extention on the front and putting extended shackels in the back


pics to come

i did rears up front as well but i did a chassis extention with mine and i have 2" extended shackles all round as well check out "project gremlin" for photo's and details