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Whats a RD2.8t engine+ gear box worth
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 4:27 pm
by stool
Well my Engine and gear box has punched out 222`000km`s
without any probs to date
But I fear the clutch will die soon as Ive brought
a unit and im in huge dept
So is it cheeper to get a complete engine and gear box from a reck
Or just fix the clutch WHEN IT GOES BUST .
Let the boat anchor jokes began

Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:18 pm
by DieselBoy
Dude a GQ clutch kit will set you back a whole $450(NZ)
Just get a few strong mates together and you will get it done in one weekend!!!!
Other wise budget for 8hrs labour

Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:27 pm
by Daisy
DieselBoy wrote:Dude a GQ clutch kit will set you back a whole $450(NZ)
Just get a few strong mates together and you will get it done in one weekend!!!!
Other wise budget for 8hrs labour

you forget this is a 2.8 TD.. totally different clutch setup.. dual mass flywheel blah blah blah...
$2000 replacement flywheel from nissan if yours is no good (they arnt machinable) BUT there are some clutch shops out there which have set up a jig to allow them to be machined plus clutch kit will set you back approx $1200/1500 from Mr Clutch
I sold my old 2.8 engine and gearbox with a busted clutch for $750
Prolly worth more in parts.. such as head and the injector pump...
TOM
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:27 pm
by stool
Thanks but are you sure thats the price fore a 2.8T clutch
Ive been told its a duelmass flywheel and cost a sh$t load
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:29 pm
by stool
Thanks tom im a bit slow in the replys you got in before me
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:29 pm
by Daisy
stool wrote:Thanks but are you sure thats the price fore a 2.8T clutch
Ive been told its a duelmass flywheel and cost a sh$t load
read above mate

.. u might have missed my post
TOM
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:30 pm
by DieselBoy
Riiiight
Sounds like it belongs in a toyota!!!!
I'll have a look in my workshop manual before i start talking shiat

Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:33 pm
by stool
So a complete engine and gearbox is not out of the question

Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:38 pm
by stool
Dose a different engine need to be enginerred. Or just swap the numbers over
all that shit i havn"t picked up yet
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:44 pm
by blackmav
Just need a blue slip inspection > no engineer.
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:48 pm
by stool
Cheers mate
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:51 pm
by DieselBoy
Huh, hows this, my Gregorys work shop manual with the 2.8 suppliment in it says:
The clutch Machanisim fitted to the 2.8 Litre models is basically the same design as that fitted to the 4.2 litre modles with the following changes:
(1) A smaller 240 X 160 X 3.5mm driven plate is used instead of the 275 X 160 X 3.5 mm unit fitted to the larger engine. The pressure plate is also reduced in size to suit
(2) The driven plate specification changed lightly.
The maximum spline backlash is reduced to 0.7mm at115mm from the hub centre.
(3) The fly wheel to crank shaft bolt torque is reduced to 137-157Nm
(4) All other components use the same specifications but care must be taken when ordering parts to get the correct ones for the 2.8 litre modle.
So perhaps there really is no cause to worry???
If it was me i would get the clutch done before it starts slipping badly, as thats when the real damage to the fly wheel occurs, through excessive heat.
My 2c
Cheers,
Pete.
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 6:01 pm
by Daisy
DieselBoy wrote:Huh, hows this, my Gregorys work shop manual with the 2.8 suppliment in it says:
The clutch Machanisim fitted to the 2.8 Litre models is basically the same design as that fitted to the 4.2 litre modles with the following changes:
(1) A smaller 240 X 160 X 3.5mm driven plate is used instead of the 275 X 160 X 3.5 mm unit fitted to the larger engine. The pressure plate is also reduced in size to suit
(2) The driven plate specification changed lightly.
The maximum spline backlash is reduced to 0.7mm at115mm from the hub centre.
(3) The fly wheel to crank shaft bolt torque is reduced to 137-157Nm
(4) All other components use the same specifications but care must be taken when ordering parts to get the correct ones for the 2.8 litre modle.
So perhaps there really is no cause to worry???
If it was me i would get the clutch done before it starts slipping badly, as thats when the real damage to the fly wheel occurs, through excessive heat.
My 2c
Cheers,
Pete.
Correct... replace the clutch b4 the flywheel shits itself is probalby the best option money wise.
a 4.2 conversion will cost more but then again you retain standard gearing with 35's which is an added bonus.
TOM
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 6:11 pm
by stool
The clutch has had a bad rattle that goes away when the clutch is depresed .
But it had the rattle when i brought it with 119`000kms
on the clock so its done ok and doesn`t slip
I thought the clutch was dead when i brought it 4 years ago
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 6:12 pm
by ozy1
i spoke to the clutch shop in reguard to my old man GU with the RD28T, and he said that they have replaced the duel mass flywheel wuth a standard item off a TD42, i believe, with a standard clutch kit, it works out heaps cheaper,
BUT, as you know, the duelmass fly wheel replaces the harmonic balancer, and thus removing the duelmass fly wheel will give you vibrations, he said out of the ones he had done, he had 1 and 5 with vibe probs which meant they had to go back to the duelmass, take the chance i guess?
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 6:26 pm
by stool
Thank`s all for the help
One more Question
Has anybody fitted a 4 or 6 cyl cummings [spelling] engine to a patrol before
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 8:24 pm
by DBW
stool wrote:The clutch has had a bad rattle that goes away when the clutch is depresed .
But it had the rattle when i brought it with 119`000kms
on the clock so its done ok and doesn`t slip
I thought the clutch was dead when i brought it 4 years ago
Mine does that too! Has done since I have had it. I think it's just the thrust race, $30 bearing?
mm
Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 5:28 pm
by blackmav
So...........what was it??? what did you do?