Outer Limits 4x4 Board

looking into my steering woes i think i might need to shim the front axle with castor correction shims... where can these be bought for reasonable $$$ snake and big balls are quoting around 90 bucks, was wondering if there was a better option.

just about any wheel alignment place will have them, should be cheap as chips.

try the spring joints carrols springs ect ect

i got some from ARB for $15 a pair but they are alloy and not as durable as steel ones.

thanks tojo... how many degrees were yours?

durability is not an issue at the moment...getting it running for 15 bucks would be good

You can pick up alloy shims (2 degree shims) for about $12 from ARB etc but the steel shims (4 degree and up) are closer to $50 from ARB.

Cheers
Steve

Don`t get the alloy ones as over time they wear away and let the centre bolt and or u bolts come loose. Lernt this one the hard way

what exactly were your steering woes?

wandering to the sh!thouse, no self centering... only change i made was to get longer main leafs made up (an extra1.5 inches in the front of the spring) with a little more arch... new bushings don't help...

guts, how long did they take to wear away... i kinda just want to get it to drive for 6 months before i save some money and pull it off the road... for some serious work.

got quoted 19 bucks for the alloy ones at ARB, 2 degree...

does anyone know how to work out how many degrees i need to shim the sucker

his steering was real bad it is literally a fight to keep it on the road,

his car was the worst thing i had driven and now its even worst

bad_religion_au wrote:
does anyone know how to work out how many degrees i need to shim the sucker

What sort of driveshaft are you running? If you have a single U-joint at eithier end of the shaft then output shaft from the t-case needs to be parallel to the pinion yoke.

If you have a cardan joint (looks like two u-joints back to back) at the t-case end then you need the pinion on the diff pointing along the driveshaft.

Easiest way to work it out is to get an angle finder and take the relevant measurements (dependant on the type of driveshaft)

Hope that explains it.

Cheers
Steve

driveshaft angle isn't the issue here... it's castor angle of the front knuckles...

as the front shaft is only being used low speed, no drama... it's steering at highway speeds i'm looking at fixing...

bad_religion_au wrote:driveshaft angle isn't the issue here... it's castor angle of the front knuckles...

as the front shaft is only being used low speed, no drama... it's steering at highway speeds i'm looking at fixing...

Ah fair enough, too used to the Jeep where the front driveshaft spins all the time

Cheers
Steve

About a year

thanks guts.

Carrolls and GTsuspension have them.

I have made em my self out of flat steel cost time only

but it is a waste of time guessing get a wheel alignment first and see what your caster is now? it is prob close to o degrees whichever way - or + caster it will work fine 3 degrees max 4 either way is what you want leaning back at the top is optumin but i lent it forward at the top to help with pinion angle it is nearly as good either way is better than o

Get your wheel alignment then lower the back spring mount till the caster is right that way you can fix caster and lift it more at the same time. Just a thought First though make sure you have the spring length and shackel length matched correctly for optimum suspention travel. Cheers Darren

DAZ wrote:First though make sure you have the spring length and shackel length matched correctly for optimum suspention travel. Cheers Darren

ok... how would i check this daz? i remember you saying something about this at boho when casey inverted a shackle, but still haven't found out how to work this out... you may have worked out by now i'm pretty clueless

DAZ must be out of his mind to seriously recommend negative caster!
Go for something like 4 degrees positive and your rig will be a whole lot steadier on the road. NEGATIVE CASTER IS A DISASTER!