Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey there,

My GQ has recently started leaking fuel as i expected it to happen once i fixed the last problem i had! lol Anyway i just took it to the diesel mechanic and he said he wont replace the o rings since it has done 300k, he wont touch it for less than a full rebuild! To complicate things i have a turbo kit ready to bolt on but he also infirmed me that i cant just bolt on a turbo kit, i have to modify the pump and injectors, put in a low compression plate and generally blow my engine up in the process was his indications. Is this the opinion of most or just him, i was under the impression it was an easy practice to turbo these engines? So untill i work out whats happening with the turbo i cant try to fix the leak!! His opinion is that my best option is to get a new free flowing exhaust and extractors and tweek the pump to suit when its getting rebuilt. Anyone with constructive advice would be extremelly appreciated!!

TinyGQ

new injectors ???? they mite be dribbling
fuel consumption up ?

maybe he didnt say injectors...he hasnt even inspected the car, he was jst talking from experience i guess?? the car drives fine right now, just leaks fuel a bit. He showed me a cover plate off of a turbo fuel pump, it has some vacuum thing on it, says thats what mine will need.

TinyGQ

TinyGQ wrote:maybe he didnt say injectors...he hasnt even inspected the car, he was jst talking from experience i guess?? the car drives fine right now, just leaks fuel a bit. He showed me a cover plate off of a turbo fuel pump, it has some vacuum thing on it, says thats what mine will need.

TinyGQ

not sure champ my mate just had his injectors done as they were leaking
his was using gutloads of fuel too

ohh nah my injectors are fine, well they dont leak and my car is reasonably ecconomical for leaking fuel!!

cheers mate

My turbo went on around 280sih ks and has now done 320 and is going strong......go somewhere else, and yes you will need to increase the fuel pump flow a little for the turbo to be effective, not hard to do from what I have been told, but I havn,t dome it myself

ohh cool, how much boost are you running?

TinyGQ wrote:ohh cool, how much boost are you running?

10Psi, west end here wanted to boost it to 14 -16 psi, but that will over stress the motor imo..........I am happy with 10psi, goes well, why don't ya get a ticket up ion virgin and look it all over and see what you need to do, cheaper than 1 hour at the deisel specialists

If the injector pump is leaking fuel from under the top plate (due to low sulpher diesel), then it only needs new o-ring seals on the top cover. If you wanted to get carried away, then you could get it rebuilt to make sure its back within manufacturers specs.

If you're only running modest amount of boost (10-12psi), then you don't need an aneroid (vacuum thing). All it does is meter in the fuel based on air flow, but it is necessary at higher boost levels.

Ideally, you should reduce the compression of the engine when turboing it....but its not totally necessary, and you ought to get away with it no problems.

You should get a 3" exhaust and dump for your turbo anyway.

So, get the leak fixed, bolt the turbo on, fit a 3" exh, and give it a little more fuel. Fit a pyro to monitor the EGT's, and if its black smoking excessively then do something about the injectors.

haha!! you know your bloody right, isn't that a descrace! i still dont undertand how it could cost the same (or near abouts) to recon a diesel pump as it is to recon an engine!!! anyways plan b is to get a wrecker to supply and fit a s/h jobby i can get that done for $550 with a 3month warranty? what do you think? i might still be where i started from if it starts leaking again after 3months!!

cheers trol, good advice! i already ahve a 3" dump so i need an exhaust back, i might ring a few different ppl on the getting only the o erings done, its my preferrence lol!! Very happy to hear about the boost thing, i dont wanna go higher than 10 psi anyway lol. Cheers again,

tinyGQ

TinyGQ wrote:cheers trol, good advice! i already ahve a 3" dump so i need an exhaust back, i might ring a few different ppl on the getting only the o erings done, its my preferrence lol!! Very happy to hear about the boost thing, i dont wanna go higher than 10 psi anyway lol. Cheers again,

tinyGQ

yeah, as trol said low sulpher now in the 500PPM range has such a low lubricity that the old nitrile and buna elastomers perish...the new elastomer are viton, and viton is the most overprices elastomer in the bussiness eg a mech deal for a small pump with nitrile would be $50, viton would be $300

BTW sulper content will be down to 50PPM by mid/late 2007, i think most pree 97 deisels came with nitrile or buna so anyone with pre 97s look out for leaking seals on ya pumps etc

is it worth getting just the seals fixed or in you opinion is it necessary to get it overhauled??

TinyGQ wrote:is it worth getting just the seals fixed or in you opinion is it necessary to get it overhauled??

seals leak due to the elastomers perishine.....low sulpher f**** it, yeah do the seals the chances are that is all that is wrong, but when you pull it off to do you can check and make a quick decision

I replaced the seal on my TD42 (446 000km). It must be the crap SA diesel (cos thats when it started to leak).
My pump was leaking out of the top plate. I brought 2 new seals, top plate seal from diesel injector shop $10 (if that) and shaft seal from ARB Bendigo $5.
Then got a mate to fit. But it didnt look like to hard a job. Just take all the hoses off the top and mark positions for throttle shaft. Take top cover off. remove govener spring.
pull apart throttle shaft replace seal. Install new top plate seal. put spring back on and put it all back together.
Pretty sure that is the basics of it.

As for the turbo. Injectors might need replacing. But if it seems to be alright fix it later.
I would just fit the kit you have. And set boost for about 10psi (seems like a good place to start) and fuel it up alittle.
From talking to others I would reccomend fitting a Boost (not really needed though) guage and a EGT guage. So then you will have a better idea of the stress on the engine. I did hear 550c is a good max setting for the EGT's. But have seen lots more than that on a GU.

I have a TD42 now with 460 000km on it and I plan on fitting a GU turbo kit (with 3"dump pipe) and a straight thru 3" exhuast soon. Just gotta get the turbo hi-flowed. And new injectors, but mine are stuffed.
Suppose I better fix the gearbox to.

cheers turps, i might be stupid but what is a EGT guage??

TinyGQ wrote:cheers turps, i might be stupid but what is a EGT guage??

Exaust Gas Temp, tells ya if it is running to hot due to overfueling

Ahhhh... learn a new thing everyday!! lol

cheers mate

TinyGQ wrote:... anyways plan b is to get a wrecker to supply and fit a s/h jobby i can get that done for $550 with a 3month warranty? what do you think? i might still be where i started from if it starts leaking again after 3months!!

I reckon if your going to do it, do it right first time. Why spend all that time and effort to risk gettin a dodgey second pump.. then if it dies its $550 out the window.

Kingy is right, I asked about the fuel aneroid while at denco gettin mine sussed out, they said dont bother unless your gettin up around 14-15psi+

Im runnin 13psi and no fuel aneroid.

Im runnin EGT, boost and engine temp gauges in a Dashpod.. looks great, and easy to read right there infront of you.. The best thing for keeping an eye on things.. when you get to 550 degrees, BACK OFF!!!



On rebuilding the pump, as said with low sulphur diesel around and gettin worse, you may as well do it now, its not 100% critical, but if its off and apart, have it done. I did, got better economy and power, but I did injectors with that all at once. $1400ish

Yea looks like thats the way it might have to go!! I can get a import low k's pump from a wrecker that might be from a later model , but like you sad the sulfer problem is only getting worse at least if i fix it now i wont have to worry about it anymore.

Hi Tiny
I replaced the fuel pump o-rings for about $7 to stop my pump leaking, it is not a big job. Turned the fuel back and using less fuel too.
Chears Paul

There are other things that wear on the injection pump--my injection pump was$1850 to recondition--It required a new shaft and plungers as well as seals and setting up etc. The shop gave me all my old bits to show how worn they were--the input shaft was very scored and plungers worn as well. Definantly noticed less smoke and economy increase when i refitted it.

Nozzles and pump need to be in good condition to get the most out of the turbo.

Nick

i spent $1600 on getting my pump rebuilt, they fixed the lot, i have the old shaft here somewhere that they replaced, and a few other bits and pieces, do it once, do it right

Get your seals done.... My fuel pump started leaking on holidays in qld came back to nsw to get it fixed - I thought I would need an overhaul.
Took it to binskins and they said try tope plate seals ?? first and in most cases that fixes the problem..

It did and I haven't looked back and for $70 with me not doing a single thing I can't complain...

hey jeremy its funny you mention that caus i actually went to a different diesel mob yesterday. He said it is only the top cover seal and when i said that if i fix that seal does it mean it will leak somewhere else (like what they all say!) he said he has repaired about 30 in the last 10 months and not one has come back!! Im willing to go on those stats! Although he did say it would be $250!! Do you know whats involved, i might be able to get the mech at work to take a look??

TinyGQ wrote: i might be able to get the mech at work to take a look??

why dont you do that first?

ohh hes pretty bust here and i sorta wanted a diesel mechanic to llok at it first so i know that is the problem, why are diesel mechanincs specialists?? If a mechanic can pull apart an engine and put it back together whats so hard about doing the same to a fuel pump!! I dont get it!

Nothing really hard about pulling apart a pump, except for the specialised
tooling to do so, then the equipment to test and calibrate it, then getting hold of the test information to do so. Once you have all that its a p.o.p.