Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hi wots the best way to change drive line angles to eliminate problems with lifting a shorty the car has 2" body lift would it be better to lift the engine ,lower the transfer or both?

what size spring lift have you got or what size do you want to go too???

get adjustable upper control arms, that flatten up the bottom uni and reduces the angle of the upper one. Also gearbox spacer plates help.

its got 4" and it vibrates a bit at the moment but im looking in to going higher

Only uppers or should i do lowers as well

Body lift doesnt affect it but Ive got 5 inch springs, with only upper adjustable control arms. However, i have a double cardan shaft. But while i had 3 inch springs i only had the upper arms and it was ok.

ive heard of them shafts are they easy to get and wot are they worth ? also i was tossing up fitting an A frame in the rear

dieselSWB wrote:Only uppers or should i do lowers as well

do uppers and lowers ... lowers are easy to damage get XXXHD units

to do it properly u get the knuckles cut off ur front diff and rotated
to correct pinion angles. so if ur goin 5" plus lift get drop boxes to suit

Got my double cardan shaft from Chaos 4x4 in Sydney. I supplied my Nissan shaft and a front shaft off a Hilux/4runner and they built it for $550 including the adapter to fit hilux to nissan flange.

I still dont understand why the tops need to be adjustable and heavy duty. Never heard of anyone breaking the top ones without break both bottoms first.
I have been told that 16mm longer bottom arms will fix most of the problems with shorty's. Thats from Cheezy. This is what I will do to mine after the new coils go in. Just gotta find out how high it ends up.

And his reccomendation was lift the motor an inch if the vib persists.

Also anyone doing hard off-roading with std trailing arms are asking for trouble. They are made out of very thin crap.

get the longer bottom ones...will sort u out..and as said before get the lifted engine mounts if ur problems persist. i have 5 inch coils, 2 inch body and still run standard shaft. driven 30,oooks since fitted lift and have had no dramas other than some slight noise from the spline of the shaft as it is a bit worn..

have set up a few shrty's this way and have had good results. cheezy is right. this is his set up using the bomb proof longer lowers. no need for touching uppers.

I just did a 4" on mine, you use a 10mm spacer at the gear box crossmember and adjustable top arms.
The idea is to get the angles of both universal joints the same.
Its not the steeper angles that cause the problems, its when the angles are different from each other that the vibration occurs.

You shorten up the top arms, which rotates the diff back down toward the ground and sharpens the UJ angle at the that end, matching it with the UJ at the gear box end. Vibration gone.

For got to look at where you were from, but my set cost $NZ250 from 4x4 Concepts in Auckland.

DieselBoy wrote:I just did a 4" on mine, you use a 10mm spacer at the gear box crossmember and adjustable top arms.
The idea is to get the angles of both universal joints the same.
Its not the steeper angles that cause the problems, its when the angles are different from each other that the vibration occurs.

You shorten up the top arms, which rotates the diff back down toward the ground and sharpens the UJ angle at the that end, matching it with the UJ at the gear box end. Vibration gone.

For got to look at where you were from, but my set cost $NZ250 from 4x4 Concepts in Auckland.

You can do this up to a certain point. The universal joints do have a maximum operating angle. If this is exceeded they will destroy themselves.

Obviously

shorten uppers...lengthen lowers....tomAtoes-tomatoes...

i used longer lowers as they are the weakest link and usually first damaged so its an excuse to bomb proof at the same time.. but the uni angle theory is spot on..

Longer Stronger Lowers How simple is that. ??? The outcome of the exercise is to get the transfer and pinion outputs opposing (or within 3 degrees) of each other ie; back to stock. Because your pinion rolls up when lifting your vehicle due to a number of reasons...

THe idea behind it is that the nissan Unis are big farqers that can handle a bit of angle. I would imagine they WILL wear out quicker than if they were at a lower angle but that is something you just have to take onboard.

If you put in 16mm longer ones and the car still vibrates then perhaps the diff rolled up a little more than expected then you raise the engine DO NOT lower the transfer case as this negates some of the idea of lifting in the first place.

So about $300 for two longer lower arms w/ new bushes for longevitys sake and maybe $60 for raised engine mounts..

There is the above option or double carden routine.. 600 - 1500 for a good shaft the later being high angle stuff from U.S, 400-800 in fab work to get the diff rolled and shock mounts rotate and coil perches rotated. Unless you can do work yourself this way IS more expensive.

I, and a number of people who use then in comps, don't recommend going any higher in coils in a shorty, this is not because of the vibrating issue - that can be fixed quite readily. Seriously wheel the thing with a decent 4 inch suspension setup, I remember when I first put mine in I wished I hadn't because it makes the front go all floaty on steep inclines. You get used to it though...

Just my opinion..

SOmeone bookmark one of these many shorty threads..

DieselBoy wrote:Obviously

May not be obvious to some people.