Outer Limits 4x4 Board

My muffler is hanging lower than usual i rekon is broke a mount.
Big weekend of 4x4ing planned and im not gonna hve time to fix it.
Whats the verdict is it gonna get ripped off if i bottom out on ruts?

Do a bodgy fix with some wire just to hold it up higher.

Yeah that would fix him
Is it gonna mess things up if i just take it off
Not enough back pressue or water in there?

remove muffler and fit normal piece of exhaust.. havent had muffler for 12+ mths

bogged wrote:remove muffler and fit normal piece of exhaust.. havent had muffler for 12+ mths

whats`the legal side of this

is there a difference with no muffler on a petrol vs desiel

dwaynes wrote:is there a difference with no muffler on a petrol vs desiel

no power difference just saves the muffler from gettin smashed to shit

Dunno but its already reasonably loud cos its a 350 chev
and ive gotta use it around town aswell

bogged wrote:remove muffler and fit normal piece of exhaust.. havent had muffler for 12+ mths

Bogged, that would be fine for a turbo TD42. But since he has a 350chev in there it will make one hell of a noise. I would just get some tie wire and tie the bugger back up. Mines been like this for ahile now as I am to slack to fix it and plan on replacing it soon anyway.
The best tie wire to get is the stuff that you can only just bend with your fingers. Nice and strong and still easy to work with. Anythicker and you have to use pliers for all the jobs and thats a pain.

Yeah i rekon ill use some stainless welding wire that should do untill i get my new rig or can be bothered to fix it

Also how much punishment will the diffs put upwith before they start to break cos there are some serious ruts at this place and the diffs will drag on the dirt and i dont want to rip em out. Its limited slip aswell if that makes any difference. Ive heard that nissan drive line's are tough as nails

turps wrote:

bogged wrote:remove muffler and fit normal piece of exhaust.. havent had muffler for 12+ mths

Bogged, that would be fine for a turbo TD42. But since he has a 350chev in there it will make one hell of a noise. .

didnt know about the 350 at the start of the thread

Holley_Equipped wrote:Yeah i rekon ill use some stainless welding wire that should do untill i get my new rig or can be bothered to fix it

Also how much punishment will the diffs put upwith before they start to break cos there are some serious ruts at this place and the diffs will drag on the dirt and i dont want to rip em out. Its limited slip aswell if that makes any difference. Ive heard that nissan drive line's are tough as nails

Good to hear you're having some decent fun... the diffs are going to be pretty hard to break. Dragging on dirt won't do it, dragging on rock might not be so good.

Are we talking about an MQ?

Holley_Equipped wrote:Yeah i rekon ill use some stainless welding wire that should do untill i get my new rig or can be bothered to fix it

Also how much punishment will the diffs put upwith before they start to break cos there are some serious ruts at this place and the diffs will drag on the dirt and i dont want to rip em out. Its limited slip aswell if that makes any difference. Ive heard that nissan drive line's are tough as nails

I just went down to the local tradie supply shop. Think it was actually garden tie wire. But works real well. Just every 2nd month it just needs to be re-done or tightened.

I dunno what it is (kinda sad i know ) but i didnt buy it and havent had anytime to work on it being in grade 12 still
It looks like this one but a flat tray

Holley_Equipped wrote:I dunno what it is (kinda sad i know ) but i didnt buy it and havent had anytime to work on it being in grade 12 still
It looks like this one but a flat tray

I read your other thread abotu trade. Anything after 88 (ok late 87) is going to be a GQ until late 97 when they changed to the GU.

There where some GQ leaf utes that looked more like MQ than GQ.

But that pic is a GQ shorty. So if your ute looks like that its a GQ.

Yeah thanks heaps for that
Do you know if it takes much effort to get a lift thorugh it say 2''-4''?

Holley_Equipped wrote:Yeah thanks heaps for that
Do you know if it takes much effort to get a lift thorugh it say 2''-4''?

Piss easy on a LWB ie ute. Just get new coils ($180pr) and new shocks ($125each) and install the buggers. May need some form of caster correction on the front. But you may also get away with it.
Caster correcttion can be fixed a number of differnt ways. Bolt on caster plates, weld on caster plates. Drop brakets or modified arms (snake or 3rd's). Or cut the mounts off turn the axle slightly and re weld. Could even use caster bushes, but most on here reckon they are crap.

It might be leaf sprung if it's an early GQ ute.

dude.. thats my ride in ur pic above..lol i was looking at thinking thats bloody familiar..lol

looks even better now..

Yeah mate its a VERY nice rig. I rekon thats what ill get next, Did it take much to do him up and was it very $$ or not to bad??

it looked better before viper! when did you get the rocks removed? not as tough lookin now!

is this one better familybus?? lol

holley thanks for the raps on the rig.. its a pretty cool truck. but id say if ur ute is coils, work with it..if u have leafs, make them coils. not overly expensive these days to get a solidly performing rig outta a gq..ive spent heaps but at the time had the cash..and done things 2 or 3 times through trial and error..wish i had discovered outer limits when i was in the build process..