Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Well I bought an 88 Jap import Safari today, thanks to all those who have answered all my questions and given me info that helped me to decide what to buy. It's a bit old I guess, but it's in great condition and smooth running TD42. Can't wait to start modifying it as soon as I get back from holiday!

Thanks peeps

Sweet looking ride

So whats the mods list look like ?


Kingy

nice and clean, whats the full specs, extras, and plans for it

It's a TD42 auto, with all the extras they get in Japan like rear heater and headlight wipers!!!!....24V electrical system, which makes me slightly nervous........but hopefully won't have any dramas with it.

Starts easily first go......very nice smooth to drive, brakes feel a bit spongy tho.....

Mods list, hehe, well:

2" lift
33" muddies
cargo barrier
snorkel
turbo (maybe)
3" mandrel bent exhaust
bullbar
crawler gears
fridge
sidesteps/sliders
diff lock in rear (maybe, I'm not sure if it has LSD currently, I guess so)

But before all that I"m gonna get it fully checked over then if all is well the mods can begin.......

what is the hand throttle used for????

Nice one mabs, how'd you manage to ge a flat roof one instead of the munted high roof?. That was one of the main reasons I went the swb safari. Just make sure to do the oil changes and shite straight away as mine still had all the japo gear on it

thanx mate, i will change all the oils for sure first thing...........yeah i dont like the high roof either, so when i saw this one i liked it heaps

Id get the brakes inspected properly.. Imports are supposed to have new tires and new Brakes before sale, or that was the rules for bikes when we was doing it...

hand throttle useful with winching to keep revs up, and also for warming up the car.

mmm dont think they are gonna give me new tyres or brakes :(

but I'll get ARB to check everything over before I start the mods

Just happy i dont drive a land rover anymore!

mabsydney wrote:mmm dont think they are gonna give me new tyres or brakes :(!

if the brakes are fubar, point them to their blueslip provider, and the RTA... the 2 should have a good talk with each other.

ok thx, if they turn out to be dodgy brakes I'll go back and see em

How much did you pick it up for?

cost me $13,000 with 12 months rego and 12 months warranty.........it's got 10,000km on it..........so presumably the meter has been flicked, but that doesn't bother me too much as a think a lot of Jap imports have......it doesnt look like it has travelled far and its not been offroad.

looks good, i thought the safaris had the high roof, or was that just an option that some came with? other than that whats the difference between the import safaris and the local Gqs?

mabsydney wrote:it's got 10,000km on it..........so presumably the meter has been flicked.

you can bet your chocolate spots virginity on that... bit rich for an 88, but hey your happy who gives a shit.

Congrats on the purchase man!!!
If ya need to know anything about the 24V system give me a yell!!
The Low roof ones quite commomnly have the PTO on them. Shame there!!

99.9% of imports have had the Odo tampered with.
You want to do an engine oil change IMEDIATLY as they often get just out of the warranty period an stop servicing them, so it prpably done over 50,000 on the last lot of oil. Servicing is expensive over there. Do the auto box and filter, and put a BIG oil cooler on too asap.

does it have the rear sway bar dissconnect?? The handle is located down by your left leg under the dash, looks like a ute style hand brake. Makes a huge difference!!!

Spongy brakes often indicates siezed pins on the rear calipers if the brake system turns out to be bled properly. Use copper slip on them inside the rubber boots.

Just don't wire anything up to just one battery for 12V, you must get a reducer. It causes one battery to be constantly under charged and kills it quickly.

Good luck,
Pete.

Hey Pete,

Thanks for the tips mate, I wondered what that handle was for....so it's sway bar disconnect.....awesome....

Changing oils will be the first job next weekend.

If you can help me out with the following q's that would be really great:

- what oils would you recomend for:
- diffs
- engine
- transfer case
- gearbox

-is it ok to run my compressor (for tyres only) off just one batt as long as the engine is running?

-what about my stereo, it's 12V so should I just get an inverter for the stereo and fit an cigarette lighter 12v socket in the car too...for flouro light and stuff?

-what does fitting an oil cooler involve? ie can I buy a kit?

- is the motor the same as the locally delivered one, in other words, can I buy a TD42 workshop manual for it here in Aussie?

and........can anybody recomend a good place in or around Brookvale where I can get brakes and stuff checked......


Thanks heaps,

Martin

Hey Pete,

Thanks for the tips mate, I wondered what that handle was for....so it's sway bar disconnect.....awesome....

Changing oils will be the first job next weekend.

If you can help me out with the following q's that would be really great:

- what oils would you recomend for:
- diffs
- engine
- transfer case
- gearbox

-is it ok to run my compressor (for tyres only) off just one batt as long as the engine is running?

-what about my stereo, it's 12V so should I just get an inverter for the stereo and fit an cigarette lighter 12v socket in the car too...for flouro light and stuff?

-what does fitting an oil cooler involve? ie can I buy a kit?

- is the motor the same as the locally delivered one, in other words, can I buy a TD42 workshop manual for it here in Aussie?

and........can anybody recomend a good place in or around Brookvale where I can get brakes and stuff checked......


Thanks heaps,

Martin

Ok,

Oils will be the same as what the Oz spec ones use, your choice of diesel oils, be sure it has the correct magnizium content, as i here it is critical to the longevity of rockers, lifters and the rocker shaft, some one else will have a brand they recommend in Oz. I use Mobil Delvac MX.


Front diff: 80w90
Gear Box: 75w90 (i use 80w90 and Moreys heavy duty oil stabiliser as my box is getting tired)
T.Case: 80w90
Rear Diff: LSD oil

Yeah, apparently its ok to run the compressor off just one battery for a short time. Its constant and prolonged draw that causes the probs.

The Battery on the drivers side:
Between the + and the body work/engine 24V. Between + and - on the battery, as you would expect, 12V


Passengers side Battery:
Between the +, body work/engine, - terminals on both batteries 12V.
Always use the battery on the pasengers side for 12 volt applications, as if you accidently earth a clip through the body or somthing while using the driver side battery you risk blowing your compressor up!!! It will instantly become 24V.

Jump starting gets interesting too.

On the Stereo, mine has a factory reducer, and yours should too, mine hides behind the passengers side kick panel, later modles in the cargo area some where. Just go round testing the wires in the loom for the stereo. It should have a 12V supply switched by the ACC. No memory wire though. You will need a reducer to run one of those.

A 20amp solid state switchable reducer should set you back around $100, but you can run every thing off them, even your compressor probably.
I didn't bother with a cig plug, just mounted a 2 pin electrical plug in the dash with a switch as my 12v outlet. Reason being you can get those plugs for $2 fom Repco, cut what ever plug the light/compressor etc has off, solder the male end of the plug on and your away. Seperate male plug on the end of each thing, and a female plug on the end of your battery terminal clips so you can connect then straight to the battery if need be. Heaps cheaper and far more user friendly than ciggerette plugs. Its very simple to swap your factory ciggerette lighter over to 12V when you have your reducer though. Using the electrical plugs you can even make your self extention leads and all sorts. I'm nuts huh

It will have a factory oil cooler for the Trans, but they block up, and aren't all that anyway. Heat being the biggest killer of slush box's, you mount one infront of the radiator, leave the factory one dissused, and plumb the new one into the cooler lines. They come as kit, available at repco, and take bugger all to put in. Make sure you get the biggest you can fit in there!!! Your trans will last for ever then

I have the Gregories manual, and its Oz based, but they have everything in there except stuff on the 24V system and the sway bar dissconnect, so its fine. Motor, chassis and body are all the same, well the important bits are anyway.

Hope thats usefull,
Pete.

nive ride mate. thats the first safari wagon ive seen that is a low roof. ive only ever seen the hugh roof ones and i dont really rate the look.
its also the first ive seen without the pto winch.
good luck with it mate.
matt

Thanks Pete, that's a great response...........very helpful indeed, I'll have fun fixing it up........I'll take your advice re the cooler and electrical fit out.

Thanks again.

Matt and others,

yeah, getting a lot of comments about the roof..........I was going for a swb originally cos I don't like the high roof either, but when I saw that it was better for me cos more room for touring.

Cheers,