Page 1 of 1
Oil light issues on TD42 GQ
Posted: Sat May 14, 2005 7:37 pm
by coke
Hi Guys,
I have a bit of an issue with my GQ. On thursday I was coming home from Newcastle and my oil light on the dash started flickering. I checked the oil and added 1l, but thought it strange to have activated at that level. Anyway, that was obviously not the problem, as in the following 700km that I have done, it has been intermittent. I cannot find a pattern, like only going uphills or round right hand bends etc, it just does it when it wants to.
This leads me to think that it is a loose wire.
My oil level is fine (like I said, I added 1L). My oil pressure runs at just under the 2 at idle, and maybe up to 3.5 under load. I have not seen it hit 4 (by the guage) in the last 700km. I am running RimulaX for turbo diesels.
Couple of questions though.
1 Does the light activate for low oil pressure, low oil level or either/both?
2 Where should I be looking for the sender/wires? I cannot see anything phisically going to the sump.
All help appreciated, as I am still looking for a decent knowledgable diesel mechanic on the upper Central Coast.
Andrew
Posted: Sat May 14, 2005 9:17 pm
by berazafi
It doent sence level, just pressure
I would think its just an electrical problem,
BTW most diesels are set to cut out if the oil pressure drops for more than 5 secs or so
Posted: Sat May 14, 2005 9:24 pm
by DieselBoy
Right hand side of the block, just infront of the oil filters, under a round rubber cover.
Engine will not cut off due to low oil pressure.
Sounds to me like a loose connection some where. Clean and check the sender unit plug.
Perhaps plumb a mechanical guage in using a "T" peice as well, so that when the light comes on you get a true reading of the oil pressure not an electronically damped one like you get with the standard gauge.
It will be a bad connection or loose/earthing wire some where in the harness. Thats my bet.
Pete.
Posted: Sat May 14, 2005 9:42 pm
by Woop
These senders have been known to go faulty, causing them to read low or not read at all. Exchange with a known good one or get the newer type from Nissan. Its identifyable by having a short rubber breather tube coming out of the rubber cap.
Nick
Posted: Sat May 14, 2005 10:56 pm
by bogged
Woop wrote:These senders have been known to go faulty, causing them to read low or not read at all. Exchange with a known good one or get the newer type from Nissan. Its identifyable by having a short rubber breather tube coming out of the rubber cap.
Nick
Genuine Nissan one was about $80 when I replaced mine 2 yrs ago.. no issues since.
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 8:01 am
by bazzle
Older Inline pump type normally have cut out thru oil light.
This is to prevent reverse firing if you stall on a hill and engine gets turned backwards by drivetrain. Many a truck crashed after stalling on steep grades by engine firing up in reverse.
Rotary pump types cut in reverse as pump in "pump" wont supply fuel in reverse.
Change sender. Original older ones a piece of crap.
Bazzle
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 9:17 am
by berazafi
thnaks for the info bazzle
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 10:00 pm
by coke
Thanks guys. I am going to check it out in the morning light and see what is loose/needs replacing.
Andrew
Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 11:07 am
by coke
Back again. I have been able to do a bit more research and discovered that it is more than likely an oil quality or mechanical issue.
When I start the car in the morning, the oil light will stay on for anout 8 seconds or more, and the oil pressure on the dash guage is zero. It odes not move. When I give it a little rev, the pressure shoots up to sit at about 3.
Also, I am running Rimula X. It was the first time that I used this oil, having previously used Penrite. I have done about 6,000ks now, so I might put a new batch of Rimula X in and see what the oil looks like, and if that solves the issue.
Andrew
Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 11:23 am
by jessie928
mayte, you are playing a dangerous game..
If indeed its an oil pressure issue, ( are you willing to risk it?)dont drive the truck, If the light is flickering and its not a electrical issue, your are damaging your mains and rod bearings...
Once you start chewing into the crank, then its more $$$.
Change your oil filter and then Get a meechanic to put an oil pressure guage on it when cold and then hot.
Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2005 1:34 am
by Woop
Another thing to check is oil pressure relief valve not sticking in its bore. Also check the non-return valve--visible where the filter screws on when you remove the filters-- isnt stuck open allowing oil from the filters to drain back into the sump--the time delay for oil light going out might be the time it takes for the pump to refill the filters and pressurize the galleries. Are you using gen Nissan filters or Z9's?
Nick