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help pl - re diff
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 7:42 pm
by Girlie_Luxing
hi guys
went 4x4ing today and noticed when i got home that a bar that goes to my front diff had broken the weld into the chasis.
1st ly what is it?
and can i still drive it on the road (short term) like this. or is it undrivable till it's fixed?
any help would be great
cheers
Yvonne
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 8:05 pm
by LJ70Turbo
Can you be more specific, is it the panhard rod, it links the diff to the chassies, this stops sideways movement of the diff when driving.
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 8:10 pm
by spazbot
you have broken the diff locator off the lux front end (everyone seems to do it at some stage)
You should be able to drive it still but you will feel more bump steer and it may want to change lanes and veer to the right under brakes.
ppl do run without them but it prolly best to get it welded up and reatached.
how big is the lift you are running ?
you can get the length of the locater changed to match the new lift or buy an adjustable diff locater
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 8:12 pm
by tomsoffroad
Is the diff locator rod? (top of diff head goes forward to the chassis by the steering box)
If so then be careful when braking. This rod stop a really nasty pull sideways when you use the brakes hard.
If you have cross over steering then you don't need it at all.
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 8:19 pm
by LJ70Turbo
Ain't the diff locator rod tachnically called Panhard rod.
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 10:07 pm
by high n mighty
I would call it a torque bar and mine broke on the diff pumpkin which is apparently not the usual spot.
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 10:11 pm
by My Lil Lux
LJ70Turbo wrote:Ain't the diff locator rod technically called Panhard rod.
NO
You can run it without it but you will eventually snap your drivers side spring hanger, it's happened to me and a few others on this board.
Best to get it welded ASAP, but you can drive without, will just do what the others have said and pull to the side when braking, not good in three lanes traffic in city
As suggested by Spazbot get the original locator rewelded correct length, Snake racing make an adjustable one, but I've bent two of these already, and have found that bootie fabbing my original has worked best.
I've made mine with a pin on the bottom mount now, so can pull it out when in the bush and slip pin back in when on the road.
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 11:03 pm
by Girlie_Luxing
Ta for the info guys, it does sound like the thing that u r talking about, hoping to source somewhere tomorrow to try to get it welded up
spazbot wrote:how big is the lift you are running ?
It's stock standard. i wish it had a lift.
so i've been told the damage would have been done over time. not from todays antics but i cant beleive the hole in the chasis from where it was fitted.
cheers
Yvonne
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 11:10 pm
by My Lil Lux
When you go wheeling you don't really need it in the bush, so if possible best to take it out before going, or take it out once your off the tar, I usually do mine now when airing tyres down, takes about 1 min, and will save these drama's later.
Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 11:22 pm
by Girlie_Luxing
i thought it was there to stop the diff from turning like rolling forwards or backwards
thanks guys for understanding my stupid female description of it. i didnt know what it was called so i did explain it the best i could.
cheers
Yvonne
Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 7:53 am
by dumbdunce
Girlie_Luxing wrote:i thought it was there to stop the diff from turning like rolling forwards or backwards
that is exactly what it does - that rotation of the diff is called 'axle wrap' and can damage your springs, front drive shaft, and steering components. although you get better articulation (suspension 'flex') without it on, the potential for more damage is great especially if you start going hard.
There is a potential solution in the form of a crossover steering conversion, which involves the installation of a steering box from and IFS (Independant Front Suspension) hilux/4runner, reinforcing the chassis at the steering box mount, installation of high steer arms or a double arm on the passenger side, and a custom draglink. The modification also requires dropping the front spring hangers and the installation of longer front spring shackles. It's hard to get out of it for under $1000, and it is a fairly hardcore modification - not really recommended when your only aim is to get rid of the axle locator link.
put up a message in general chit-chat or general tech offering a slab of beers or a bottle of bourbon or whatever in exhange for getting your chassis welded up, there are plenty of guys on here who will do it for you.
cheers
Brian
Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 12:08 pm
by Da Lux
i wouldnt hav thought it wasnt much to do with tamin axle wrap, more to take the pressure off the drag link, which runs in line with the chassis and, wen brakin it puts a load of pressure on it as diff moves back (coz of shackles bein on rear) and also the studs for tha j arm. im prob wrong tho
Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 5:55 pm
by spazbot
hole prolly looks like this
Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 5:57 pm
by tomsoffroad
Da Lux
Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 12:08 pm
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
i wouldnt hav thought it wasnt much to do with tamin axle wrap, more to take the pressure off the drag link, which runs in line with the chassis and, wen brakin it puts a load of pressure on it as diff moves back (coz of shackles bein on rear) and also the studs for tha j arm. im prob wrong tho
Diff rolls forward under braking doesn't it?? Which in turn pushes the J arm back causing it to steer violently to the left.
Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 8:33 pm
by Girlie_Luxing
spazbot wrote:hole prolly looks like this
it looks like this pic also
cheers
Yvonne
Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 7:34 am
by dumbdunce
that's a pretty nasty hole, but not too hard to fix for anyone with welding skillz. don't leave it too long, some of the cracks around the hole will propagate and the chassis will be seriously weakened.
cheers
Brian