Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Way back when snake was usable ie no popups, I remember talk of Falcon 1 tonne ute or similar springs being used with good results in the rear of lux's. Does anybody have any info on this that they could enlighten me with. I remember seeing the pics and that the center pin has to be redrilled but I can't remember the model that they came out of. Any help greatful.

Or if anyone can suggest a good spring setup (both front and rear) for my lux - please do so.

91 Single Cab
either 2 or 4" dropped front hangers (can't decide yet)
front hangers 1" forward
2" extended shackles
stock steering for now (will be crossover soon)
99012x all round

HYpolux on the board runs explorers i think?

But richard at 4x4 engineering has explorers under his x-cab - they seams to be alright

the explores and falcon 1-tonne are the same or at least very similar.

they are 58" eye-eye and to fit them you need to move your front hangers foward 7-8" and hypo runs 4" extended shackles.

not sure if you need to move the shackle further back???

they have 3x 10mm thick leaves + an overlaod i think.

POS on here used to runs these springs aswell.

Are they just redrilled to suit a lux wheelbase?

How good do you want this thing to drive on road???
If you are like me and are not too fussed with how it handles on road i can help you out.
But if you want good on road handling then dont even think about the rears up front with stock steering not even for a week.

Ask Bubs about stock steering with the axle farward.

Ruff,
unfortunately I am looking for a compromise. At the rear I'll be utilising polyairs for daily use but as far as the front goes, the setup will have to be drivable. I am not too fussed as to the handling but I'm unsure what you're getting at - is it body roll that is the problem? I'm only holding off with stock steering until I'm through the first round of XRCC as production class requires a stock steering setup. Maybe the scrutineering will only apply to hydraulic assisted steering and brake steering? With rears upfront and crossover steering, will road manners be acceptable?

Ruff is right

I have to drive my 4 runner on a 80 - 90 km round trip every day - i ran a 6 leaf hybrid rear pack in the front with wedges and stock steering for wait for it - 1 day

It was down right dangerous went back to my old springs and now run parabolics in the stock location - for my needs this will suit me for now as i am after a cheep and cheerful 84 - 88 single cab as a second rig

beebee wrote:Ruff,
unfortunately I am looking for a compromise. At the rear I'll be utilising polyairs for daily use but as far as the front goes, the setup will have to be drivable. I am not too fussed as to the handling but I'm unsure what you're getting at - is it body roll that is the problem? I'm only holding off with stock steering until I'm through the first round of XRCC as production class requires a stock steering setup. Maybe the scrutineering will only apply to hydraulic assisted steering and brake steering? With rears upfront and crossover steering, will road manners be acceptable?

Body roll was not all of it - in mine i just felt as if on every bump it picked the front of the rig up and moved it 2 ft left then 2 ft right - you have to feel it to explain it

I am sure if i was to play with my spring packs i could have fixed it - the flex was down right awesome but for me it just wasn't fesable

What makes it so bad? Is it binding?

beebee wrote:What makes it so bad? Is it binding?

i think it just got to do with the spring rates - steering at compression was a no no

ruff could chime in to tell you the proper reason for my problem - but as POS said every truck is different you have to play and find what suits you

Might have to fire off an email to tjpete to see if he'll let me in the comp with crossover. Thanks for your help guys. Any advice on rears?

where are you going to get Xover steering from??

are snake arms back in stock yet?

even if they need linishing to fit properly i really like those arms

I assume from you responses that supply of a descent xover system isn't easy to get one's hands on?

The only Arms that i know of in Aus are available from Snake Racing but from what i have been told he is having trouble supplying them.

I run a double flipped arm on the left and will hopefully be running high steer by XRCC as well.

bee bee,

POS had a set of explorer rears which he had on his hilux, from the photos ive sen they flex awsome. he said i could have em for nothin, but im startin to think there may be too much work involved cosidering my limited budget and skills to get the full benefit from them. i can get a set of IFS rear springs off a 2000 dual cab for next to nothin so im thinkin i may get these instead.

what should i do get 2" lift and decent flex out of these springs???

i have: standard length shackles/ 4"extended ones/ a standard rear pack (90 model) + will have the above IFS springs.

im unsure of what shocks i will be running yet, i have standard GU rear shocks that will do for a temp solution but only have 9.5" of travel.

sorry for hijacking your thread bee bee

What/who are those arms from?

id say custom/fabbed

Mytlux, you don't want those springs from POS anymore then? I was reading the thread where you asked him about them and last night I sent him a pm asking if they were still available as it seemed from you posts that you hadn't got them from him yet. So if he gets back to me and they are still available do you want them (as you asked first) or are you happy for me to chase him up and see if he wants to sell them to me?

Ruff,
where is your stering damper mounted? I can't see it in that photo. Still between the diff housing and the tierod?

that is a flipped welded arm

i think is dampener is on the draglink

So that is a stock arm flipped upside down and another arm welded to the top and gussetted? Sounds a little on the suss side . Cast materials (steering arms) have to be preheated before welding - correct?

i dont know about the pre heating

look through 4x4 monthly at the amount of 40's SOA - look at 80% of there steering set ups

bubs wrote:are snake arms back in stock yet?

even if they need linishing to fit properly i really like those arms

So you are saying you will pay $1000 plus for x-over steering that still need work done to them ?? I wouldn't!!

Chris

beebee wrote:So that is a stock arm flipped upside down and another arm welded to the top and gussetted? Sounds a little on the suss side . Cast materials (steering arms) have to be preheated before welding - correct?

I have run a welded arm for over a year now with now problems. I had it professionally welded and then xrayed. Perfectly safe in my mind

Chris.

cbr wrote:

bubs wrote:are snake arms back in stock yet?

even if they need linishing to fit properly i really like those arms

So you are saying you will pay $1000 plus for x-over steering that still need work done to them ?? I wouldn't!!

Chris

never said i would buy it - but i like the look and beef of the arms

i am sure snake will sort it out

I want one! Anyone got any specs/details on what is required? Is it just a stock arm mounted upside down and another welded to the top and gussetted? How much higher does the top one have to be? Does it hit hit the chassis rail on compression?

I've just realised that there is no flipping of the arm that is bolted to the hub just the welding on another flipped arm to the existing. Is that right?

Ok my arm has been flipped and welded and i know myself it is solid.The biggest mistake most people make when flipping the arms is that they either use bolts with spring washers and no cone locks or longer studs with no cone locks.As when you flip the arm usually the cone locks can not be used.And this causes a lot of leaverage on the bolts/studs and they commonly come loose and shear off.Most people usually rely on the bolts to hold both arms together as well instead of welding them.
Mine is different. first we cut the bearing retainer off 1 LH 75series arm then ground both of the tops of the arms reasonably flat, then we welded entirely around the outside of the arm where they meat each other and also placed a 10mm thick triangle between the two to re-enforce them. Then i drilled out the top arm so i could fit the cone lock down to the bottom arm and still use the stock length stud.I then used some some long nuts and machined them down on one end so they are a tight fit through the top arm. So now even if the weld was to crack the top arm can not come away because the nuts wont let it come over the top of them.Also the chances of the studs shearing off is minimal because there is not realy any more leaverage on them.

Ps;If you are going to do this make sure you use 75series arms as they are wider across the top.