Page 1 of 1

Raising GQ front shock towers

Posted: Mon May 16, 2005 8:53 pm
by Mark2
I 've already cut my innner guards. I reckon I need to raise the towers 40-50mm to run the 80 series shocks so they dont become the bumpstops on full compression.

Am thinking of grinding off the factory captive bolts and welding 3 spacer tubes underneath each tower - so the bolts go through the spacer tubes.

Anyone done it a better way? or got some pics?

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 8:30 am
by John H
Mine could be considered a little bodgy but it works. I just welded an extra length of thread onto the Nissan bump stop bolt and used some spare nylon body lift bolts to space it down. After 4 years the welded bolt hasn’t caused me any grief — it only holds the bump stop in place and doesn’t bear any load.

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 8:47 am
by Hoonz
we made new towers 50mm longer

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 9:30 pm
by Mark2
John H wrote:Mine could be considered a little bodgy but it works. I just welded an extra length of thread onto the Nissan bump stop bolt and used some spare nylon body lift bolts to space it down. After 4 years the welded bolt hasn’t caused me any grief — it only holds the bump stop in place and doesn’t bear any load.


I think this is OK if you've got really tall springs which will bottom on the coils before the bumpstops touch OR if your tyres are large enough to become the bumpstops in the inner guards. But if not either of the above arent you loosing a couple of inches of wheel travel?

Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 10:20 pm
by CRUSHU
mine are done, unbolted upper shock mounts, removed welded on bolts, fitted 1" spacers between mount and plate, used longer bolts. Too easy.

Re: Raising GQ front shock towers

Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 3:41 pm
by bazzle
Mark2 wrote:I 've already cut my innner guards. I reckon I need to raise the towers 40-50mm to run the 80 series shocks so they dont become the bumpstops on full compression.

Am thinking of grinding off the factory captive bolts and welding 3 spacer tubes underneath each tower - so the bolts go through the spacer tubes.

Anyone done it a better way? or got some pics?


After cutting off old bolts , drill out and use longer bolts to siut. Male up spacer washers out of hollow rod 30mm with 12mm hole..
Doesnt need to be welded.

For bumpstops either use 80 series or put a ally or nylon block bolted thru hole on bottom spring seat.

Bazzle

Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 9:09 pm
by MKPatrolGuy
Need to do this to Dad's, but without a body lift it will be tight.

Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 9:11 pm
by CRUSHU
MKPatrolGuy wrote:Need to do this to Dad's, but without a body lift it will be tight.


you will need to cut away a little bit of the inner guard, only about the size of a tennis ball.

Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 9:18 pm
by MKPatrolGuy
CRUSHU wrote:
MKPatrolGuy wrote:Need to do this to Dad's, but without a body lift it will be tight.


you will need to cut away a little bit of the inner guard, only about the size of a tennis ball.


You mean above where the back bolt is under the inner guard?

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 6:29 am
by bazzle
Dont cut the guard unless you intend to reinforce it. It will crack.

Bazzle

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 7:38 am
by John H
Mark2 wrote:
John H wrote:Mine could be considered a little bodgy but it works. I just welded an extra length of thread onto the Nissan bump stop bolt and used some spare nylon body lift bolts to space it down. After 4 years the welded bolt hasn’t caused me any grief — it only holds the bump stop in place and doesn’t bear any load.


I think this is OK if you've got really tall springs which will bottom on the coils before the bumpstops touch OR if your tyres are large enough to become the bumpstops in the inner guards. But if not either of the above arent you loosing a couple of inches of wheel travel?


Just more down travel from the longer shocks that you can fit in there as the compressed length can be longer. Of course this is pointless if you have a stock control arm set up as it is the control arm design that restricts the front end.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 7:58 am
by CRUSHU
MKPatrolGuy wrote:
CRUSHU wrote:
MKPatrolGuy wrote:Need to do this to Dad's, but without a body lift it will be tight.


you will need to cut away a little bit of the inner guard, only about the size of a tennis ball.


You mean above where the back bolt is under the inner guard?


yeah, that is where I meant, although I am unsure of what Bazzle means by it will crack. I didn't think it was load bearing.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 4:10 pm
by bazzle
The inner guard holds the firewall in triangulation (stiff). Inner guards do flex with body. Ive seen them crack thru the OE holes near that area.

Bazzle

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 5:24 pm
by CRUSHU
bazzle wrote:The inner guard holds the firewall in triangulation (stiff). Inner guards do flex with body. Ive seen them crack thru the OE holes near that area.

Bazzle


oh..... cool. Glad i've bodylifted then.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 5:39 pm
by fatassgq
Pic of mine done.

Pic is a little ruff but you get idea.
I have a 2inch body and these blocks JUST fit without cuting inner guard.
I am unsure now exactly how long they are but I just made to suit the space I had.

cheers

Brian

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 8:00 pm
by MKPatrolGuy
CRUSHU wrote:
bazzle wrote:The inner guard holds the firewall in triangulation (stiff). Inner guards do flex with body. Ive seen them crack thru the OE holes near that area.

Bazzle


oh..... cool. Glad i've bodylifted then.


Might see if I can just panel beat it out of the way then...

Posted: Sat May 21, 2005 10:39 am
by robbie
does that specific mod (raisign shock tower with spacers) need to be engineered in VIC?

Posted: Sat May 21, 2005 5:50 pm
by bundyrum4x4
Cracked my inner guards many times through fatigue, seen many other patrols with the same problem when they are used hard. Not a hard job to weld up but it pays to keep an eye on them.