Outer Limits 4x4 Board

im after a good auto electrican who can replace and fit the alternator on my feroza. im in leichhardt sydney area but am willing to travel a small distance if required.
how much should i expect to pay for:
1. recon alternator where i install it,
2. recon alternator where they install it.

also is it possible to replace with a higher amperage model then the stock unit.

thanks

Lowndsie has done a swap to a Commondoor one- try the FAQ or searching. There have been a number of posts on alternators.

buy the alternator and replace it yourself. very simple to do! just unbolt, unhook wire harness, remove, bolt in new alt, install wire harness and ur set. good to go. no need to pay labor charges for something u can do.

having a look at the engine bay it looks pretty tight, especially with the power steering. I know i should do it myself as i have rebuilt a few cars so i know what i'm doing... just getting lazy.

It's an easy job if you haven't got power steering (ie PV hasn't!) - the best way to access it is to remove the battery completely and go in from the side.

thanks murcod, I'll have a look at the battery access.

I just got a Holden v8 alternator installed. The fan is on the inside though. It didnt need any modifications to the brackets. Now the lights don't pulsate when the subs kick in and i have a good chance of running the electric winch.

Very cool mod, definately worth look into if your alternator is busted.

Can you post the part number of the alternator and the rating of it please?

sorry, i should have put that in my post.

bosch BHX1231, 14v 85Amp.
the pulley needed to be changed for me and the plug into the back of the alternator.

Thanks- I've added it into the FAQ.

David, can you update the FAQ, the alternator they put in was different to what they told me and i didnt notice until i had the wheels off yesterday. Ive searched for the actual part number but couldnt find it.
This is whats on the alternator (as best as i could read it)
Nippondenso 31400-81a0 75A. so its a 75A with internal fan.

sorry for the confussion.

I think I just put a link in to this thread- so everythings OK.

Did anyone try the other part number?! It may fit too?

the other part number, the bosch is the one the other guy put in, 85A i think, but he needed to modify hangers and brackets. Mine just bolted straight in.

Senergy, you haven't got any pics of your install have you? Is the front pulley easy to change over?

I think it's time to update mine..... I had overheating problems last night when stuck in traffic. Funny part is it was fine all summer and it was only 23 yesterday?! With the two electric thermos running and the headlights on the voltmeter needle was dropping to the lowest point in the white shaded area. Whenever there was a break in the traffic and I could sit on 60km/h for a while the needle would go back up to the top part of the white shaded "healthy" area.

Other possiblities- I need a new battery; I need a new radiator; I need a new thermostat...... Time to spend some money.

i could run down stairs and take some pics of it in the car but with the power steering and the rest of the pumbing you cant really see much.
the pully wasnt hard to get off esp if you have a ratchet gun. I would say the most tricky thing is the socket on the rear. you will need to either rip your old one off and mod it to fit or get a new plug to suit the alternator.

to be totally honest i watched a alternator specialist put it in, they charged me $150 for the alternator and installation (reco'd alternator with warranty) and for that price i could not be bothered doing it myself.

with the spotlights, high beams and 2 amps going my voltage meter never really moves and that is at idle. But im sure the electric thermos pull alot of current.

When you say the pulley was "changed"- do you mean swapped with the one off your Feroza alternator?

I will be doing it DIY; just want to make sure I've got a fair idea of what to expect.

I can't find that Nippon Denso part number anywhere??

Have found another possible "bolt in"replacement.

Here's the Feroiza stock item (50 Amp):



and here's one from a petrol Hiace/ Hilux/ Tarago- 1HZ 2Y 3Y 4Y engines (70 Amp),



Almost perfect match- even the main electrical terminal (the hardest one to re terminate) is the same.

Here's another option- Toyota Camry / Celica 2.2litre engine Denso 80 Amp

something doesnt add up, a hilux gets a 70A and a camry gets a 80A???

Depends on the model year- all the Hilux ones are from older generation engines.

Got a price from Toyota for the 70 Amp one (they claimed there were no Nippon Denso 80 Amp alts fitted to the 2.2 Camry?) TRADE was over $700!!!!

Sorry ..... but I just had to post this.....

For the sum of $430 from Castle Auto Electrics in Melbourne you can have this:

Just picked up one of those 70 amp SV21 Camry Nippon Denso alternators for $60 from a wrecker (the ones that retail for over $900 new from Toyota.) Price was right, so I'll give it a go DIY. Will take pics and post a how to in this thread. The front pulley will need to be swapped as well as some wiring changes for the regulator side of things.

Discovered yesterday a Civic 80 amp alternator would also be a good fit- but it was $380 for a reco one!? If you want 90 or 110amp Landcruiser ones look like they might fit with minor mods.

The alternator saga......

OK, the Camry one isn't a "bolt in fit" - it might be for later models with the ribbed style belt; but not for older style V belts like mine.

For a start you'll have to change the pulley over- forget about getting it off with anything but an impact wrench (rattle gun) and a gear puller. After changing the pulley over yesterday I then discovered it was out of alignment with the water pump and harmonic balancer by about 6mm. So, off came the pulley again and I got it lathed down so it was a closer fit to the alternator body.

Next problem is the upper alternator bracket. It needs to have the "kink" in it straightened due to the upper alternator casting being thicker on the new alternator. Hammering won't do it- a hydraulic press will.

For the wiring the plug for the Camry alt is different and has an extra pin. So a cut and shut of the wiring loom, plus running an extra wire is necessary- the extra wire is a voltage sense input to the regulator. This is a good thing to have as it means the regulator will make sure the voltage at the other end of the sense line is the correct level- rather than the voltage at the alternator output. So, if there are any voltage losses in the wire to the battery (which there will be when peak current is being drawn) then the alternator output voltage will be increased to compensate.

Hopefully I'll have it all back together and working tomorrow! Othersise I'll be walking to work Tuesday.