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floor pan knock

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 5:42 pm
by legsx1
My shorty GQ has a knock coming from the floor pan on both drivers and passengers side. It has had a 2 inch body lift using solid alum blocks and longer bolts.
Any views on where the knock maybe cioming from

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 6:56 pm
by Hoonz
tighten the bolts up perhaps?

hope u used I'm gayer than aids! and hardened washers and plenty of loctite

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 6:59 pm
by legsx1
yes we used nyloc nuts, am I heading for the right area to look then, perhaps loose nuts?

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 7:00 pm
by Cossie
does it do it when you pull off and also just before you come to a stop?

mine does this too and I was certain it was the radius arm bushes as they were totally shagged, but ive just replaced them and its the same :?

Im now gonna strip and check the wheel bearings as its been suggested that they could be the problem (im not 100% convinced but they need doing anyway). My body mounts appear fine though.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 8:04 pm
by MKPatrolGuy
Might be the floor pan, they crack where the firewall meets the floor.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 8:29 pm
by Hoonz
could be wheel bearings ..

could be shagged tie rod ends

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 8:42 pm
by krimnl
could be broken engine mounts
have seen this before

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 8:44 pm
by GutSquisher Media
Ohh, the old Coke can crungle.

Sorry, but get use to it, without reinforcing the floor pan around the body mounts your stuck with this.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 8:55 pm
by bagsy
yep mine does this aswell . Ive checked and tightened everything but its still there . Im over it . Just live with it . shane.....

Posted: Thu May 19, 2005 9:48 pm
by Cossie
It's gonna piss me off toom uch to just live with it!

whats got to be done in order to strengthen it? anyone done it or got any pics? :armsup:

Posted: Fri May 20, 2005 1:21 am
by Woop
Check for cracks in the channel right where the body mount bolts go through the channel section underneath the floorpan as movement here can produce that sort of noise. You'll need to remove the rubber bung and possibly the bolt to get a good look.

Nick

Posted: Fri May 20, 2005 8:09 am
by lexi
Is it a good idea to make a bigger plate and strengthen all these mounting points by welding in 2mm metal. Can access be gained to them all. I take it you lift carpets and weld from above.
Alex

Posted: Fri May 20, 2005 2:55 pm
by mavdog
worn body mount rubbers, get some 6mm square building washers remove the nut off the bolts going through the rubber mount, put washer in put nut on and do up. The steel sleeve inside the mount should tighten up inside the centre hole of the washer thus squashing the body mount or in other words removing the wear out of the rubber mount...or you could just buy new ones... this has worked on 3 swb I know of...
a 30c washer and 5mins to find out could save you a lot of time and work

.....

Posted: Fri May 20, 2005 4:58 pm
by JemmyBubbles
This is what I figured. The body mounts have an inner crush tube.... THey may apear fine from a casual glance but actually are farked and moving...

So reinforcing the floor pan is definitely the way to go when doing a body lift... ???

Mounts aren't cheap. Have uncle as parts manager in some sydney store can get most things at a significant discount and body mounts kit for a SWB were still around the $200 mark..

THe noise shites me too and worries new passengers...hehehe

Posted: Fri May 20, 2005 8:23 pm
by extra niss
my niss was making the noise u are talking about. all i did was cut down the inner crush tub (about 3mm) so there is more pressure on the chassis and stopped the body moving. and the noise stopped

Posted: Sat May 21, 2005 9:30 am
by bazzle
The hole on the chassis where the mount sits wears. Only 1mm makes a lot for the mount to slipl as body flexes. Goes "thump" under your feet. More so when wet as lubed.
Ovetightening has only a limited effect as all it does is compresses rubber a bit more making it harder. Not what you really need there.
Shortening tube does nothing more than pull floor pan down against one side and can cause problems like floor cracks, door misalignment etc.

As mount can always move due to design, and has too as it floats around chassis.it will always make a noise if there is clearance there. Nissan use a thin layer of rubber (1mm) to give friction but this soon wears away.

Same idea as pin type shock mounts with the thin "lipped" washer to locate bushes centrally on mounting hole.

In the past on badly worn ones a quick fix without resorting to wedind and fixing hole wear is to clean mounting surfaces and use glue to take up wear. Lasts about 6 months. Easy to redo if you have a body lift as block slips out when undone and mount can be lifted up and removed.
Its this lip that makes original mount hard to remove without jacking body up on Nissan with no body lift.

Glue Ive used with reasonable sucess was Liquid nails, liquid metal .
Must be real clean.

Bazzle

Posted: Mon May 23, 2005 10:26 am
by AJS
Bazzle,

why does it seem to happen more on the right hand side?

Tony

Posted: Mon May 23, 2005 4:41 pm
by bazzle
Probably due to body torque twist maybe??

Bazzle

Posted: Mon May 23, 2005 4:48 pm
by Red_MAv
I had a knock under my front passenger seat that only happened under load going up hill. I found the chassis cross member under the gearbox was bent up 20mm and reduced the clearance between the floor and the drive shaft near the handbrake. It was thumping against the floor when the torque moved it up and down. Got one from wreckers for $60. Noise gone now.

Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:31 pm
by out&about
I have a GQ wagon that used to have the same noise all I did was get some teflon sheet and put that between body and body mount still allows a little bit of movement but there is no noise problem solvered :lol:

Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:30 am
by bogged
out&about wrote:I have a GQ wagon that used to have the same noise all I did was get some teflon sheet and put that between body and body mount still allows a little bit of movement but there is no noise problem solvered :lol:
or replace body mounts and problem solved too

Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 5:22 pm
by coxy321
My GQ is making this bloody noise too!! I haven't got any body lift in it, but it only makes the noise on take off in first gear, and in any given gear when your slowing down and the revs drop below 1000rpm. It also does it when its idling low when cold. I have got a stuffed rear control arm bush, but the noise is coming from the front. I had a quick look to see if it was something stupid like the exhaust hitting the chassis, or a broken engine mount, but nothing really seemed too obvious. I'll check the body mounts for play tonight.

Coxy

Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 6:05 pm
by modifiedman
i had same knock to, got complete new suspension and bushes but still there, even after body lift still there , turned out to be engine mounts even had mechanic check them before but was them , mate had same knock was mounts after 250 000 kz start looking :armsup:

Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 8:27 am
by coxy321
Beauty. Glad to hear that modifiedman. To be honest, the first time i heard it (and everytime i drive it), i swear its engine mounts. It reminds me of when i had a Falcon and constantly went through engine mounts from doing naughty stuff. I'll look into it. Anybody priced up engine mounts??

Coxy

Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 9:41 am
by lexi
mmm quite a few guys playing with their body mounts tonight :lol:

Alex

lol

Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 5:16 pm
by lolergram
lol...

Had same problem and was fixed when replaced the old springs... The spring retainers on the front were well and truely...

Hope that helps.

I had really really well worn and old springs.

Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 5:39 pm
by adriand82
mine knocks when the handbrake is on at idle. and when i turn the thing off with the handbrake on. if i take the handbrake off and use the pedal, it goes quiet. wierd.... my gearbox mounts dont look 100%. ant ideas?

Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:33 pm
by big bundy
check engine mounts, your handbrake is takeing up pressure from the drivetrain and picking the motor up off the mounts

Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:54 pm
by adriand82
how hard are they to change? ive only had the pleasure of working on a 1litre sierra last few years..... things are a lot heavier now lol

Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 7:06 pm
by big bundy
mine took a couple of hours, but were drinking beers i think so that could fark with the times :lol: