Outer Limits 4x4 Board

there leaking all over my tyres

very easy

hope you like gettin dirty n if youre going to do the wheel bearings[repack] at the same time you will need the hub nut socket

about $250 for the kit, diff oil n plenty of cleaning material [rags n cleaning solvent]
and the best part of a day for both sides thats if youre doin it thoroghly
or any where up to $750 plus for a workshop to do it
have fun

To give you an idea, have a look at this site. It's not hard, just messy.

http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/axle/

6/10 if you dont know what you're doing

3/10 if you do

will be doing the front end on mine soon.

its not hard, aslong as you have a good workshop manual to follow, toyota workshop manual, or the gregories is ok aswell.

Yep learnt how to do mine after busting a CV.
I took my time and studied all the parts to get familiar.
You will need the 54mm hub socket if you intend to do the bearing repack at the same time.
If you only want to replace the inner axle seal you can just remove the manual locking hub cover and remove the axle circlip then remove the top 4 swivel hub bolts (after removing the knuckle wiper & seal) loosen the bottom 4 swivel hub bolts and the whole assembly should lift off the knuckle. You can rest the whole assembly on a milk crate as long as your brakeline has enough slack. Now you can slide out the CV and inner axle and then replace the inner axle seal.
When you jack the front end up you can use a axle stand to support the end your working on so the angle falls to the diff this will help stop diff oil pissing out all over the place when you remove the CV/axle.
Once you've done it once and sussed it out it's not hard at all.
It can be messy so have plenty of rags and a container handy.
Some stuff you will need :-
- 54mm hub socket (for bearing repack)
- circlip pliers
- torque wrench (if your anal about factory settings)
- socket & open end spanner set
- grease
- rags/container
- inner axle seals

Bitsamissin wrote:You will need the 54mm hub socket if you intend to do the bearing repack at the same time.

A flat screwdriver will also remove the nuts if you don't mind a bit of bush mechanics and don't want to spend the coin on a hub socket, has got me out of trouble when out wheelin plenty of times

if you lived on the central coast you could bring ya rig around my place n park it beside mine and we could do it together n ill show you how
since a just blew a cv yesterday

Bitsamissin wrote:Yep learnt how to do mine after busting a CV.
I took my time and studied all the parts to get familiar.
You will need the 54mm hub socket if you intend to do the bearing repack at the same time.
If you only want to replace the inner axle seal you can just remove the manual locking hub cover and remove the axle circlip then remove the top 4 swivel hub bolts (after removing the knuckle wiper & seal) loosen the bottom 4 swivel hub bolts and the whole assembly should lift off the knuckle. You can rest the whole assembly on a milk crate as long as your brakeline has enough slack. Now you can slide out the CV and inner axle and then replace the inner axle seal.
When you jack the front end up you can use a axle stand to support the end your working on so the angle falls to the diff this will help stop diff oil pissing out all over the place when you remove the CV/axle.
Once you've done it once and sussed it out it's not hard at all.
It can be messy so have plenty of rags and a container handy.
Some stuff you will need :-
- 54mm hub socket (for bearing repack)
- circlip pliers
- torque wrench (if your anal about factory settings)
- socket & open end spanner set
- grease
- rags/container
- inner axle seals

There is no reason to loosen the lower 4 Swivel hub bolts. The Knuckle will still come off with just the top arm removed.

Tony, I was told this but with the castor built into mine there is no way my swivel hubs will come off without loosening the bottom 4 bolts the same with the axle/birfield (virtually impossible to slide in with swivel hub still attached).

Another trick is to drill out the spot welds on the bracket holding the brake line to the backing plate such that it can unbolt and therefore freeing up the caliper without bending the metal lines. One bolt seems to hold the bracket in place just fine.

Dave

Tidy42 wrote:if you lived on the central coast you could bring ya rig around my place n park it beside mine and we could do it together n ill show you how
since a just blew a cv yesterday

HAHAHAHA, you done a cv??? I done ANOTHER diff 2 w'ends ago and it was unlocked too

and yes... it's now getting a wrap bar installed