Outer Limits 4x4 Board

thoughts on my tubebar,

made it about 4 months ago,
wondering if others would like similar ones?

likes and dislikes on bar for future ones?

currently developing 80 series one, and rangie to follow then GU

looks mad get 1 goin for a hilux!

it looks good, only thing i can see is ... where does the number plate go?

looks nice,

who needs a number plate

looks good...
but I dont think those eye bolts are designed to be put under load in the direction you have mounted them if that makes sense...
would be better and stronger mounted on the front of the bar with the bolt part sitting horizontal

i agree landy man ,sweet lookin bar
just the eye bolts would be at fault

nice how long did it take you to weld up
how do the crawlers work in the mud

imho wrap around corners would've been nicer

i agree with nam, make the upper bar wrap around the guard, and notch the lower bar so it joins it at the corner

N*A*M wrote:imho wrap around corners would've been nicer

i thought it was missing something. and the two round spotties that hang off on an angle kinda make your car look like a a alien............

well after doing calcs on bar

the eye bolts found there place as they can take load due to 9mm washers being used on M20 eye bolts, but again, i think for future bars i might put them on the flat, or hooks on the side. just to apease people who dont believe my calculations (yes i'm an engineer)

and again after puting my bar on a finite element program, the wrap around bar came up much, i mean much weaker than useing a cap at the end. So for strength i used a cap. bull bar should be strong after all.

you'll nowtice 3 bars per side for added strength. cna't see how any bar with only 2 bars on each side could get ADR approval. jsut too weak.

maxxis are good in mud if you go below 10psi

number plate will be put above the roller fairlead when i get aroudn to it

having the bars bending back towards the tires an inch or so would add to its looks.
it also looks like it blocks the headlights a little, or is that the angle of the photo?

i have a front mount intercooler what about a bar to suit a highmount
that isn't recessed into the grill?

assembly of the whole bar was about 3-4 hours. from laser cut patterns to the whole bar

I'm liking all the feed back guys.

Making one that dosnt have the highmount set back in the grill is very easy, 2 min on the computer and it's all changed. Right now this one has teh winch set back 50mm from the front of the grill. therefore the whole bar would sit 2" fwd.

can be made to suit body lifts or not.

bogged, i think i will have the bars closer to the tyres next time.

yeah definately needs to wrap around the gaurd and back to the tyres, rather than the big end plate thingy.

What sort of bucks would you want for one of them? GQ 2"BL?

YankeeDave wrote:well after doing calcs on bar

the eye bolts found there place as they can take load due to 9mm washers being used on M20 eye bolts, but again, i think for future bars i might put them on the flat, or hooks on the side. just to apease people who dont believe my calculations (yes i'm an engineer)

and again after puting my bar on a finite element program, the wrap around bar came up much, i mean much weaker than useing a cap at the end. So for strength i used a cap. bull bar should be strong after all.

you'll nowtice 3 bars per side for added strength. cna't see how any bar with only 2 bars on each side could get ADR approval. jsut too weak.

maxxis are good in mud if you go below 10psi

number plate will be put above the roller fairlead when i get aroudn to it

you even talk like an engineer

if you want to be successful commercially, you have to realise you'll need to give the customers what they want. function is good, but without the form, you're limiting your products potential. do a structural analysis of say an arb bar. it could probably be made stronger in many ways, but look how successful that bar design is. it's on every third fourby and copied by nearly all the bullbar mfg mobs. i'm building a bar for a friends car. i've looked at the options and plating the end like yours is the easiest way to join tube. wrap around corners require a LOT more work. but i believe it's worth giving people what they want. also, i hate to give scruby any credit but there is a much higher risk of hurting pedestrians on the corner than if the bar wrapped around. just some food for thought, because you asked for opinions.

YankeeDave wrote:well after doing calcs on bar

the eye bolts found there place as they can take load due to 9mm washers being used on M20 eye bolts

hth

YankeeDave wrote:well after doing calcs on bar

the eye bolts found there place as they can take load due to 9mm washers being used on M20 eye bolts, but again, i think for future bars i might put them on the flat, or hooks on the side. just to apease people who dont believe my calculations (yes i'm an engineer)

and again after puting my bar on a finite element program, the wrap around bar came up much, i mean much weaker than useing a cap at the end. So for strength i used a cap. bull bar should be strong after all.

you'll nowtice 3 bars per side for added strength. cna't see how any bar with only 2 bars on each side could get ADR approval. jsut too weak.

maxxis are good in mud if you go below 10psi

number plate will be put above the roller fairlead when i get aroudn to it

haa haa... i didnt even read this. Just saw the pic, and made comment about teh wrap around.

I love the FEA for bar design..... how cool (yeah I'm an engineer too) Did someone say NERD

Okay, so the plate at the end makes it stronger. And I can see why, cause the deflections would be limited by stopping and joining there.

What about like a two section??? Have the front of the bar end with plate, and have the wrap around join to the plate??? Put any oustanding sections on the inside for the safety aspect. This limits the cantilever section and reduces the moment arm....... hope you get what i'm trying to say.

this is the bar i made for my patrol. nice and high great approach angle.
rounded ends.

all good ideas,

and I think you guys are all correct on people wanting wrap around bars,

looks like i might be going down that way. Better go purchase a decent pipe bender

YankeeDave wrote:all good ideas,
Better go purchase a decent pipe bender

If you're gonna play with your sig you'd better!!!

Nice work and I've seen the bar hold the car up on a forklift under the two top tubes(on sides) testament to the build quality and welding.

Wraps are nice but what about corner protection for headlights (always handy??)

maybe some headlight and panel protection like this?

Still the same bends and tube

Looks awesome dude...

Start working out some prices

tuffrangie,

that mod looks pretty good.

maybe i'll have a slightly customizable bar, where you can add features a bare bar as you want. ie head light protectors, wrap around bars, hooks etc



Pricing atm is rough, but based off first one going to be from $700 -$850

Looks good, however there are a few things that wouldn't be legal in QLD:

(a) all 4 spot lights
(b) spikes to hold winch hook (looks like they are forward of the front profile of the bar, must be behind to be legal.
(c) side plates are probably a gray area.

The basic rule is that there can be no "protrusions" forward or above the profile of the bar (except CB aerials), and no "sharp" corners - See P10.

http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/qt/LTAS ... _Jan05.pdf

the most fwd aspect is the roller fair lead, then winch hooks, which i think i'll make removable so people can fit them as they see fit

i think you need to look at what other places are already selling similar to this and improve, cause atm yours looks very plain and boring compared to others on the market

looks tidy to me ... simple

why didn't u use a hawse fairlead?

Yeh i like it aswell.

Could you make a rounder top hoop? That would be cool
What about angling the plates for the edges as to deflect trees/crap better?

Maybe hooks to the side of the winch cradle section & a hawse so it doesnt have as many protrusions.

Dave

spazbot wrote:i think you need to look at what other places are already selling similar to this and improve, cause atm yours looks very plain and boring compared to others on the market

I think once you see teh deign you'll agree this is an improvement - super tough, built by an engineer with strength and functionality in mind. I'm hooking one up for my car - and it'll rock. I'd go practicality over bling anyday - and so would most people - especially for the price!!!!

Simple = not crying over bent bling...