Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Could anybody tell me if the new Mitsubishi lock right locker will fit onto my 96 SWB Auto or do I miss out again.

Don't know about the lock right, but a member of the Qld Mitsubishi club has a Detroit for sale - "suits most Pajeros '91 on." Don't know if it's front, could make enquiries...

Frank, is it likely to fit a 96 auto?

Cheers,

Scott

Is it a 3.5 or 3.0 V6 ??

3 ltr V6

Manual or auto ??

swbpajero wrote:Could anybody tell me if the new Mitsubishi lock right locker will fit onto my 96 SWB Auto or do I miss out again.

Ooops I missed that
So a 96 5sp 3.0 V6 eh...................
Normally I would say it won't fit as definitely the NH/NJ 3.0 V6 auto's had the smaller (7.25") front diff. But I know they did standardize everything to the larger diff at sometime and it could have been for the NK model.
If you can get the Mitsi factory part number (just ring your local dealer and quote the VIN no) for the front diff centre I can tell you which size front diff you have and if the Lokka will fit.

Frank.

Boy's which is better, Lokka, Lock right, Detroit when it comes to drivability on the road in regards to the unlocking of the unit when cornering etc, it is going to be fitted in the front diff in a NP 3.8L Auto, I only ask because when you read all the guff on each unit they are always better than the next

Marty

There's a few things to consider here, the main one being that with a front auto-locker you will loose your super select ability to drive in 4x4 on the bitumen. I't just too dangerous..................
Lokka is a cheap Lockright copy and available through 4wd Systems these auto lockers replace the side gears with dog tooth side gears that are locked together and unlock due to inertia when turning.
Lockrights are a better quality unit but not made for a Pajero.
The Detroit auto locker is only available through Geelong Differentials here in Melbourne and is custom made for Pajero's. A Detroit replaces your whole diff centre and is much stronger than standard these work in the same way as a Lokka & Lockright.
The ARB air locker is a diff centre replacement like the Detroit but it is manually operated by a dash switch.

Lokka (auto-locker) = cheap (around $700 + install), only replaces side gears, loose super select function, no stronger than standard diff, good option for earlier Paj's without super select that have manual hubs.
Lockright (auto-locker) = not available for Pajero's
Detroit (auto-locker) = custom made by Geelong Diffs (around $1200 + install), replaces whole diff centre so is much stronger than standard diff, loose super select function.
ARB airlocker (manually selectable) = most expensive (around $2100 installed with compressor), replaces whole diff centre so is much stronger than standard.

I went from a front Detroit in my NH to a ARB airlocker and I love the ARB as you can turn it off when you want and have total steering control. There are situations with an auto-locker where they won't release (muddy side slopes) and you can get into trouble. Also blasting around dirt/gravel roads in 4x4 with a front auto-locker can be a PITA as steering is effected. I can also use the super select function for 4x4 on road (just have to lock the hubs in).
Also a Gen 3 Paj can't have manual hubs retro-fitted (one piece hub flanges) so if you have a front auto-locker and blow a front CV your screwed.
IMHO for a Gen 3 Paj the ARB is the go mainly for the inability to run manual hubs and still being able to use the super select.

Thanks again for your advice, I will have to save up my kids lunch money and buy a ARB unit

Marty

Dosnt the NP3.8 come with MATT .......( traction control ) .

If so I wouldnt change a thing because it supose to be very good.

All things are relative. MATT is good, but it's not perfect.

MATT waits until the wheels start spinning, then intervenes. It's better to avoid wheelspin in the first place.

ARB in the front, retrofit a Torsen in the back - then when MATT kicks in you'll really know you're trying.

Scott

Torsen retrofitting? Tell me more......

Purely a theory, no idea if it will actually work...

NMs had Torsen LSDs in the rear - will one bolt into NP?

Scott

Ahh.

I hope the ARB and torsen fit in the MATT equiped gen 3s. The only excuse I could justify to replace the gen (when the bank manager allows).
And the low range gears.
Peter H

Has anyone fitted a LSD to the front diff? could it work

Marty

Yeah a late model Starion rear diff does fit with a few mods and some have done this on earlier Paj's. The rear Gen 3 Torsen type lsd doesn't fit in the front.
NM/NP's all had Torsen type lsd's (very effective) but it was deleted when MATT was introduced throughout the model range.
So these lsd's can be retrofitted into a MATT equipped vehicle along with the new ARB airlocker. The MATT would probly only tend to work on the rear wheels mainly and only occassionally on the front if both wheels were spinning (in mud). From what I've heard about MATT it works very well until the brake fluid overheats and the ECU goes into shock mode disabling the system until things cool down. This has happened halfway up long hillclimbs but mainly on vehicles with standard type tyres. Some owners think MATT is a viable substitute for difflocks - it is not............
However a MATT vehicle with good mud tyres and say front airlocker with a rear lsd would pretty much equal a twin diff locked non MATT vehicle.
A MATT vehicle with front & rear difflocks would be superior to just a twin diff locked version especially in mud.
Only problem is there is no rear locker available for a Gen 3.........yet

Just thinking about it, the MATT equipped vehicle with front diff lock has an advantage when the driver hasn't recognised the need to engage the diff lock. Not that I'd ever do that...

How does the Detroit locker work, does it use an air compresser to lock in?
with the locker OFF in 4x4 conditions does it effect steering or anything else when doing normal 4wdriving??
cheers
Glenn

The Detroit is an auto-locker. It is locked until differential action is required, at which point the outside wheel will unlock to allow differentiation.

They require a certain amount of torque to unlock, so on poor traction surfaces they won't unlock when required. So sometimes, instead of having an open diff like you're expecting, you have a locked diff attempting to pull you straight ahead.

You do not get to turn it off, other than through front axle disconnect or free wheeling hubs.

Cheers,

Scott

Yes the Detroit is an auto locker and once it is installed you don't have to touch anything.
Once 4x4 is engaged it is permanently locked and only unlocks (ratchets) when you try to turn. In normal 4 wheel driving (dirt/gravel roads etc) you will know it is there as steering is effected somewhat.
Mainly when you accelerate and change gear the steering will pull in the direction of the wheels. Feels like the massive torque steer powerfull front wheel drive cars have when under hard acceleration. They can be a handfull in the slop when trying to turn but in the dry (in a straight line) they are awesome.

cheers guys, but I was just looking up some old threads and Geelong diffs dont do a locker for my 3ltr nj AUTO.Is this still true.
If so is there any front lockers for my 3ltr Auto.

Yes he will do them for your smaller diff (7.25") which is the same a 4 cylinder.

excellent.
Do you know what kind of price would I be looking at?

and regarding the locker, are these auto lockers useless with hills with a turn in it or do you get a bit turn in with the locker still staying on??

I would say around $1500-1600 remember these are custom made for Pajero's so are a bit more expensive than high volume selling Detroits (about $1200Ea).
Yes you still can steer on hillclimbs and go around bends but the steering is harder.
The other option is to upgrade to the larger 8" front diff you can get these for $450 from a wrecker plus you will need the propshaft and CV's. It's a bolt in job. Then you can run an ARB or a Lokka from 4wd Systems and you will have a much stronger front end.

It was in the back of my mind about doing the 8" diff change over and get an ARB locker but the $$$$$ keep on adding up and cant justify the cost. Maybe if I could do the work myself but I cant. Or if I ever blow my front diff

In talking about all this Im woundering if I need a front locker after again getting up another hill with alot more ease than my mates Pootrol with front lockers on.(he couldnt get up without them on too as you can see) actualy I think he did have lockers on here.