Outer Limits 4x4 Board

one of my mates rung me after i finished work this afternoon to come out and do some clips of us being tossers in our cars.
here are our cars in a pose pic.

we did a little filming of some different stuff, then on my 2nd go up a little ledge i broke the tufferoza. it aint that tuff anymore, it's going to be a 2wd one for a while now.

here is a small clip of what caused the following pictures damage... (PG rated, some language).
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetod ... MXk1NDE%3D

Dangerous Dave will be able to relate to these.

good thing i always carry a bag of cable ties in the rear pocket. cable tied it up so i could drive home. did ~50ks to get home and the cable ties didnt move a bit.


i've had a looksee and to me it looks like i can remove the LH & RH drive shafts and plug the hub on either side. then remove the front tail shaft and plug the transfer case. then remove the front diff alltogether, run around in 2wd until i can afford a new front diff.
anyone see any problem with that? should be fine as long as i have all the holes plugged right?

bugger the diff.... you have a WHISTLE!!!!!

what is it with feroza's and bloody whistling exhausts!!

up, down and rebound...

i might of saved the diff if i wasnt still up it when i came down...


hahah.. yes that whistle pisses me off. i was told it was from a collapsed baffle in the muffler. i wont change it until i do my turbo conversion and build a whole new exhaust system.

though that will have to wait now as i'll have to save for a new diff.


heres a pic of my mates Manx buggy going up it.

bummer about the damage, good chance to ciglock the new diff though right?

nice buggy your friends own, used to have one myself a while a go.

I did that exact same thing a fortnight ago. Its a conspiracy i tells ya. First the Daihatsu pull all future trading out of Australia, then Feroza front diffs start blowing up at random! Coincidence? I think not...

DAMN YOU!!! DAMN YOU!!! DAMN YOU!!!
Dont say that!!! I like my diff the way it is.

That buggy is far out man... always wanted one of dem

senergy wrote: good chance to ciglock the new diff though right?

hell yeah, once i find and can afford a new diff (which ever comes 1st) i'll be welding it up seeing i will then have a spare diff center.
but i wont be putting the new one on until i see if i can make some sort of external bracing that welds onto the diff housing to give it better structual integrity.
Dangerous Dave's and mine broke the housing in nearly the exact same place. and i didnt hit it on anything like he thinks his did, so there must be some structual fault in that part of the diff housing.

just watched the vid.... no wonder you wrecked it dude you could have driven that 'ledge' without getting teh front wheels off the ground.

That's worst than when I did the diff on it.... Here's a pic of when I stuffed the diff... and the engine mount... and the gearbox mount... It always was bouncy... And the wistle are cracks in the manifold... get extractors....

Cheers
Paul

yes i could of driven over it without getting the wheels off the ground, but i do like to do things the extreme way.. just expensively extreme this time...
as i said above, it was my 2nd go over it. heres the 1st.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetod ... MXk1NDE%3D

get extractors....

stuff extractors, i am in the process of building a manifold to turbo it.

I swear that Feroza is jinxed... As where Paul used to say "yet to go offroad without breaking something" I am not too sure he meant him or the car.


The whisltes are stuffed muffler, or at least when mine was whistling and I got the muffler and tailpipe replaced the whistle went away...

hows your head????? togled through the clip and you fair wacked it on the roof

No wonder it broke!!!! You're also running larger tyres which is another common factor.

I agree about the case needing stengthening; I was wondering about that when Dave's broke. An engineering joint could probably weld on some additional alloy pieces to make the casing stronger?

ummm.... sorry dude you must of seen something that looked that way, i can guarantee you i did not hit my head on the roof. for starters i would of felt it.


Croz, i dont think it's jinxed. only time something has happened is when i have gone real mad (like when i tipped it on it's side and now).
i've been off road hundreds of times since i bought it. i go camping every 2nd or 3rd w/end with my mates and we dont just drive there and back. we cut sick through sand mines and heaps of rough tracks, up the beach etc.

hey were are u wheelin at? that looks pretty cool in the bush photos..

nice job BTW......hard luk u crazy bugga






oh n come wheelin at cruiser on Queens birthday

was at a place called Fallons Rocks out of Bundy.

Queens b'day i'll probably be at the Toyota day show in my Mr2. (wont have a 4wd feroza by then anyways).

tufferoza wrote:Croz, i dont think it's jinxed. only time something has happened is when i have gone real mad (like when i tipped it on it's side and now).
i've been off road hundreds of times since i bought it. i go camping every 2nd or 3rd w/end with my mates and we dont just drive there and back. we cut sick through sand mines and heaps of rough tracks, up the beach etc.

I meant it's jinxed cos it's had two psycho owners in a row...

Damn right... that car just screams "THRASH ME".... dont know what it is about it.... I'm sure it must have a big patch of worn carpet under the accelerator.... Ahhhh memories....

Wow, nasty broken front diff #2. Mine was making real funny (bad) noises. Daihatsu USA wanted $975.00 for a front third about five years ago. I couldn't find a used third at the time. I saved my money and went with Toyota thirds. I can find a Toyota 8" third for $50.00 almost anytime. I went through two or three transfer cases, one transmission, clutch, pressure plate, warped fly wheel, radiator and a front third along with the usual engine and tranny mounts. Play hard and open the wallet.

My goodness...

I have never seen a diff blow itself to bits like the ones on Ferozas.

I know the nut behind the wheel doesnt help either.

i went down the shed tonight and pulled the front diff out. a nice clean diff center too.


unfortunatly the crown wheel has some damage.


heres the 3 peices of casing.


now i've got up to where i am comfortable with, i have the LH & RH drive shafts that i want to remove. i am going to take the diff pinion doobie off the tail shaft from the transfer case and tie it up well.


what is the best way to remove the drive shafts from the hubs? can i undo them allen key/torx bolts and remove the section with the hub knob is to reveale the drive shaft nut.?

I'd make sure that the drive shaft/outer CV isn't the thing thats actually holding it all together. For example... If you remove the outer CV nut on a Mini and push the car along, the wheel and brake drum will fall off. Not good... So double check this befor you go ripping the outer CV out of the up right.

I'm pretty sure you should remove the complete drive shaft, knock the outer CV off the drive shaft and then re-install the outer CV back into the upright. Yes you do get it out by undoing the allen key bolts. Remember the way the spring behind the lock/unlock swivel thing goes, otherwise your hubs will never unlock properly again! There will be a little C clip around the end of the splined shaft. Flick that off and the drive shaft should just slide out.

Hope this makes sense and is of some help!

This might help for your manual locking hub...or go to:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/aisin/index.htm

It helped me.

Yes you do get it out by undoing the allen key bolts. Remember the way the spring behind the lock/unlock swivel thing goes, otherwise your hubs will never unlock properly again!

cool thanks. i've pulled plenty of driveshafts before, but they just had a nut holding them into the hub and no lock/free hub swivel/switching doobie to worry about. i'll make sure i take a pic of the spring so it dont stuff it up.

There will be a little C clip around the end of the splined shaft. Flick that off and the drive shaft should just slide out.

how you mention the circlip holding the shaft in on the hub side now makes sense to me why there was always a bit of play (in/out) on the shaft in the hub. as i said above the ones i've done had a nut holding them in.


exellent link Toyhatsu, cheers.

well that was easy. only thing i had to do was lower the front suspension/torsion bars, the outer CV would not clear the lower control arm while the suspension was raised up. i stuffed some rag in where the drive shaft spline went and found 2 oil bottle lids that are the same size as the hub seal (42mm) used a bit of rag around the lids to make sure they stay tight in the hub seals.


the tail shaft is securely cable tied up. as long as i dont accidentaly put it into 4wd it will be fine.. DOH!


i can park the Mr2 back in the shed and drive the feroza to work again (much cheaper in fuel ).