Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am sure this has been asked many times before but I could not get the search bit right and so here goes
I have a FJ75 tray back with a very small spring lift. I want to put my 35x 11.5 on and dont want to have to cut the guards.
should I
1. Lift the body and by how much.
2. adjust the lock stops to stop tyres hitting springs.
3. buy and fit wheel spacers.
4. Fit flare's to front (tray covers rears)
New to modding Toyota stuff so no flames please and if you must make it funny.
Thanks

you could even try some extended shackles

or a bigger spring lift but try and stay away from body lift as its Grimace

on the back of the 75 has it got a steel tray or a alloy one or is it a style side??

fitting wheel spacers wont so much solve the problem of the tyres hitting the body work how ever it may help out when turing hard lock to lock.

you shouldnt have a problem with the flares as most 75s come with them and you can fit a 12.5 inch tyre under them just

but if you lift it with suspension lift, the tire will still hit on compression

You need to move the diff forward.
Possibly need at least 2" body lift but be aware of the extra work involved like radiator and bullbar mods.

Thanks for the response
The tray is steel and by my tape wont touch if it just gets a 50mm lift.
I have just adjusted the lock stops and solved the problem with touching the springs it was only on hard right lock anyway.
wouldn't a spring lift just make the car higher . The only way I see that working is to spring lift extend bump stops and shock length.

Skootin
Why do I need to move the dif foward and by how much. Is this just to clear the inner guard at the rear ?

Also how do I correct the speedo to get it somewhere near correct at 100k

Moving the diff forwards will help with clearance at the firewall yes...

I have a two inch spring lift and a two inch body lift. My front tyres touch springs, but not on the guards...

I am going to soften the springs, by removing some leaves from the spring pack, so I will see if that touches the guards then. If so, options are Extended shackles with either Castor Correction Plates, or Extended Spring perches.

Not valid to yours as you have tray, but I have MWB Cruiser (FJ73). My springs in the rear are unmodified 60 Series Leaves in a Soft Top car. Heavy springs in a car with no weight - WAY TOO STIFF...

But even so, my rear tyres hit scrub inside my guards still, but that seems to be in the inner side of the wheel arch, not the top...

Preferred Mods - Soft Springs, extended shackles and modified (dropped) spring perches.

Just some things for all to watch out for...

Ok so if I move the diff foward how do I go about it and I guess I would have to extend the front prop shaft. What about Shock mounts steering etc. By how much should I move it foward.
I take it your middy is just running the lifts and has not had the diff moved foward

It would be much the same as fitting them under a Middy, would it not?

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=44694

SPRING OVER And your done. Mabey some extended shackels just to get it flexing

This is the way I am headed:
axle relocation plates move diff foward 1"
Longer shackles
Prop shaft extension
Longer shocks
Tray shortened
Custom front winch mount and retain alloy bar
50mm body and 25mm tray lift
Maybe some softer springs
Flares to front to keep it legal.

The truck is only a shooting, camping rig not trying to climb rock walls withit. Just want a bit more clearance and a taller gearing for when the chev goes in later in the year.

Tell me if you think I'm going the wrong way for this type of use.

Have you tried the tyres on?
I run 34x10.5 JT2's on a bog stock Troopy (HJ75) and i needed to adjust my steering stops slightly and do a small amount of grinding behind the back wheel (behind when you're standing in front of the wheel as if you're about to take it off)

The rims they're on are not quite enough offset so once i have new rims i should be able to put my steering stops back the way they were.

Cheers
Matt

Hi Matt
The tyres are on and I only needed to adjust one steering stop to avoid hitting the springs the axle has been moved foward 1" with some plates from Snake raceing that appears to have taken care of the issue for now I will still do a 1" body lift and tray lift when I rework the tray to give me a bit more space for mud buildup etc. I also fitted flares to cover the tyres and limit the shite being thrown on the windscreen. Oh and the tyres are 35x12.5 my post had a typo in it.
Cheers Peter

Sorry for coming a little late to the thread. I have a 2" lift on my HJ75 and by redrilling the spring perch and the bottom spring plate 30mm aft from the original hole for the spring pack bolt, I moved the front diff forward to clear the guard.

The rear guards seem to clear the tyres without any changes. The tyres are 35x12.5R15 BFG MT on a 3.25" backspaced wheels. The fronts have 5mm spacers to clear the brake calipers.



Dave

Dave the plates from Snake racing do what you did with your springperch without redrilling you only have to drill the bottom plate. Your 2" iift will not make any difference to clearance when compressed, that is what the bump stops are for did you lower your stops or have you enough clearance to avoid rubbing tyres when the axle hits the bumpstop anyway. How stiff are the springs under your rig mine are way to hard and I am looking at changing to a softer spring of the same height.

Yes, I realized that about the lift, but in my 75 the tyre was hitting the guard towards the rear, whereas the clearance above the tyre was not a problem. I did not lower the bumpstops. Moving the diff forward 30 mm seems to clear the guard.

Before:


After:


Dave

Looks like a simlar result to mine. I notice you have no flexi flares or mud spats. I used a bit of ally sheet to replace the spats and help support the bottom of the flexi flare because I was left with a gap between the running boards and the flare all the rocks seemed to rattle tghrough this gap sorry I cant post photo but I have not got the camera here.
Cheers
peter

Dig.

Is there anything else required to fit the snake relocation plates? Or will the adjustment in steering links suffice?